Thank's for that Rich. Makes sense now.The surface of the bung would be the end grain
Rich
I can comfortably discuss metallurgic properties but I'm a lousy carpenter
~Craig
Thank's for that Rich. Makes sense now.The surface of the bung would be the end grain
Rich
I have used the suggestion from Don Casey with success. Here is the link:http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/29.htmCPseudonym said:I never considered letting the raised grain show. Interesting idea. Mine are worn in a way that has left the bungs and surrounding teak slightly raised.
Can the bungs be made of a slightly denser material?
Can I clean them with a mild TSP solution?
Thanks for the ideas guys ~Craig
It was my pleasure Bill. That's quite an undertaking. I don't know if I could do something like that with rollers.Winter projects! Had a list, but the trailer refit is taking too long and moving very slow! With some tips and advice from Trinkka, thanks Joe, I am getting close though. Have all the final pieces just waiting for some more parts to be delivered. Delayed from the supplier due to the Holidays. In my profile you will see the wooden cradle that I simply slapped on a trailer and hauled my O'Day that way for the past two years or so. But in the name of a safer solution, and the desire to expand my sailing area, I thought it would be good to use some of the rollers and metal and recreate a better trailer. Here are some of the progress pics. But I do hope to reseat some fititngs, and adress the sleeping arrangements before Spring. The weather here is unusually warm, 51 today! Might as well take advantage of that, as normally it is sub zero this time of year here. Will try to share the pics, not sure if I know how. https://plus.google.com/photos/110614530504099225573/albums/5692734272815617041
Any idea if the homedepot grade passes muster?RBone said:There are several grades and classes of coax. They're not all created equal.
Considering I need 75 feet of it that's a better option than wm!!!Trinkka said:Billy,
If I were you I'd start right in on that now. All kidding aside. If you don't have the coax yet, you may want to check out some sites to get a good price on it and order it now. I made the mistake of having to get it at "Worst Marine" @ $1.99 a foot because I needed it yesterday. I checked all over my area and couldn't find the coax in long lengths needed for my mast.
I could have ordered the 30 feet of coax from a company in KY called GI Joe's Radio Electronics for half the cost that I wound up having to shell out for it at that store which is 25 miles from where I live. Live and learn.:cussing:
Billy,Any idea if the homedepot grade passes muster?
Hi Joe (and other Odayers),Pipes,
I wouldn't remove the hand rails, toe rails, or the hatch moldings. You would need to remove the Teak bungs to get at the screws in order to remove them. Then you'd need to caulk them and glue in new bungs. You run the risk of developing leaks if you remove them. Trust me on this. Last year I found two separate leaks in my toe rails. You're better off trying to clean them up right where they are. Just mask off the area with masking tape and do the best you can with them.
Stay away from any type of Teak cleaner with Oxalic Acid that can and will eat out caulking. Use a soap and stiff bristle brush to clean it if you have to. I've been down that road before with those wonder hull cleaners and what I got for my trouble was a mess of leaks coming in from the screw holes under my gunwale moldings after the acid did it's work. I learned the hard way. There's nothing worse than a leaking cabin.
Joe