Thank's for that Rich. Makes sense now.
I can comfortably discuss metallurgic properties but I'm a lousy carpenter
~Craig
Winter Projects
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I can comfortably discuss metallurgic properties but I'm a lousy carpenter
~Craig
I have used the suggestion from Don Casey with success. Here is the link:http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/29.htmCPseudonym said:
I did not use TSP but had it handy if needed. SC
Winter projects! Had a list, but the trailer refit is taking too long and moving very slow! With some tips and advice from Trinkka, thanks Joe, I am getting close though. Have all the final pieces just waiting for some more parts to be delivered. Delayed from the supplier due to the Holidays. In my profile you will see the wooden cradle that I simply slapped on a trailer and hauled my O'Day that way for the past two years or so. But in the name of a safer solution, and the desire to expand my sailing area, I thought it would be good to use some of the rollers and metal and recreate a better trailer. Here are some of the progress pics. But I do hope to reseat some fititngs, and adress the sleeping arrangements before Spring. The weather here is unusually warm, 51 today! Might as well take advantage of that, as normally it is sub zero this time of year here. Will try to share the pics, not sure if I know how. https://plus.google.com/photos/110614530504099225573/albums/5692734272815617041https://plus.google.com/photos/110614530504099225573/albums/5692734272815617041
It was my pleasure Bill. That's quite an undertaking. I don't know if I could do something like that with rollers.
One thing you need to keep in mind is the tongue weight. Some trailers allow you to move the tandem axles to get the proper tongue weight. I was able to move my winch stand back to get the proper weight. In fact, my stanchion is on the tongue inside the "A" frame which looks a little strange but it works for my boat. My trailer set up is adequate for bringing my boat to the club once a year and taking her home at the end of the season. When I was trailering my O'Day 222 back in the late 1980s to the mid 1990s, that roller trailer that came with my boat made a big difference. My boat would fly off that trailer. I'd tie a 60' line to the bow cleat and give her bow a little push and she would roll right off quick all the way to the end of the dock.
The ramp needs to be level from side to side though. Some ramps have a heavy build up of sand on each side of the ramp and if the trailer is too high on that side, the boat will roll off crooked and the keel can get scratched. There were times when I had to back down the middle of the ramp to launch my boat and if the ramp is wide enough for two trailers, it can cause some hard feelings with other boaters who think you're just being a ramp hog. This was the only problem that I encountered at the lake ramp where I live. I got tired of asking the State to clean the sand out of the ramp. I was getting stuck in the sand to boot. After that, I gave up and joined the yacht club. Problem solved.
Good luck with that Bill. The boat looks good!
Joe
Here's my current list... just compiled it to see how much i have left..
Finish bolting in the bulkhead
Run the coax for the antenna
Remove the drain from the sink
Install new faucet
Reinstall teak in the bathroom
Remove the transom ladder
Rebed mast step plate
Rebed aft port standing rigging anchor
Rebed starboard side standing rigging anchors (or remove to bring home and polish)
Bring home all canvas and cushions
Remove the boat name and port of call
hard mount the LED light in the bathroom
Remove all the cabin florescent lights
Remove the speakers
Measure the keel bolts to see what type and size socket I need to remove/retorque
Remove the bilge pump
Remove hard tie of the manual bilge pump hose to the floor
Epoxy fill all holes in the bilge area
Spray mold killer in all bilge compartments
Remove portside rear lifeline stantion and install the new one
Remove teak handrails
Remove TV
Replace outlet in the bathroom
Install Transom ladder with butyl
replace bilge blower
install secondary bilge blower
Remove propane tank storage in aft locker and vacuum out
Remove everything from quarter locker and vacuum out
Replace cutlass bearing
Repair fairing around shaft strut
Repack packing gland with dripless packing
Install window frames Replace port side port glass
Install Charger
Install Inverter
Install head with new plumbing
Reassemble boom
Install house amp hour meter
Reinstall pushpit with nav light hookup
Install bowsprit
Reinstall and bed teak handrails
Install all cockpit trim and teak
Change Engine Oil
Change Engine coolant
Installation of mast electrical connector
Replace mast steaming and deck light
Repair mast spreader arm wobble
Replace mast anchor light
Remove mast bird’s nest at the base
Install CQR Anchor with chain and rode and anchor tensioner on the bowsprit
Install fortress anchor in locker
Light sanding of hull
Hull prep and paint
Hull polish
Hull Wax
Install Batteries
Change Raw Water impeller
Replace Zincs
Install Cabin LED light strips
Whoever said boats were a lot of work... pshawww
Finish bolting in the bulkhead
Run the coax for the antenna
Remove the drain from the sink
Install new faucet
Reinstall teak in the bathroom
Remove the transom ladder
Rebed mast step plate
Rebed aft port standing rigging anchor
Rebed starboard side standing rigging anchors (or remove to bring home and polish)
Bring home all canvas and cushions
Remove the boat name and port of call
hard mount the LED light in the bathroom
Remove all the cabin florescent lights
Remove the speakers
Measure the keel bolts to see what type and size socket I need to remove/retorque
Remove the bilge pump
Remove hard tie of the manual bilge pump hose to the floor
Epoxy fill all holes in the bilge area
Spray mold killer in all bilge compartments
Remove portside rear lifeline stantion and install the new one
Remove teak handrails
Remove TV
Replace outlet in the bathroom
Install Transom ladder with butyl
replace bilge blower
install secondary bilge blower
Remove propane tank storage in aft locker and vacuum out
Remove everything from quarter locker and vacuum out
Replace cutlass bearing
Repair fairing around shaft strut
Repack packing gland with dripless packing
Install window frames Replace port side port glass
Install Charger
Install Inverter
Install head with new plumbing
Reassemble boom
Install house amp hour meter
Reinstall pushpit with nav light hookup
Install bowsprit
Reinstall and bed teak handrails
Install all cockpit trim and teak
Change Engine Oil
Change Engine coolant
Installation of mast electrical connector
Replace mast steaming and deck light
Repair mast spreader arm wobble
Replace mast anchor light
Remove mast bird’s nest at the base
Install CQR Anchor with chain and rode and anchor tensioner on the bowsprit
Install fortress anchor in locker
Light sanding of hull
Hull prep and paint
Hull polish
Hull Wax
Install Batteries
Change Raw Water impeller
Replace Zincs
Install Cabin LED light strips
Whoever said boats were a lot of work... pshawww
Billy,
If I were you I'd start right in on that now. All kidding aside. If you don't have the coax yet, you may want to check out some sites to get a good price on it and order it now. I made the mistake of having to get it at "Worst Marine" @ $1.99 a foot because I needed it yesterday. I checked all over my area and couldn't find the coax in long lengths needed for my mast.
I could have ordered the 30 feet of coax from a company in KY called GI Joe's Radio Electronics for half the cost that I wound up having to shell out for it at that store which is 25 miles from where I live. Live and learn.:cussing:
If I were you I'd start right in on that now.
All kidding aside. If you don't have the coax yet, you may want to check out some sites to get a good price on it and order it now. I made the mistake of having to get it at "Worst Marine" @ $1.99 a foot because I needed it yesterday. I checked all over my area and couldn't find the coax in long lengths needed for my mast. I could have ordered the 30 feet of coax from a company in KY called GI Joe's Radio Electronics for half the cost that I wound up having to shell out for it at that store which is 25 miles from where I live. Live and learn.:cussing:
Considering I need 75 feet of it that's a better option than wm!!!Trinkka said:Billy,
If I were you I'd start right in on that now.
I could have ordered the 30 feet of coax from a company in KY called GI Joe's Radio Electronics for half the cost that I wound up having to shell out for it at that store which is 25 miles from where I live. Live and learn.:cussing:
Here's some info on vhf coax. http://www.saltyjohn.co.uk/resources/Marine VHF Antennas (aerials) and their installation.pdf
There's a lot of sites online selling coax. Try also shortwave or ham radio supplies. The problem I had was installing the connectors.
Rich
There's a lot of sites online selling coax. Try also shortwave or ham radio supplies. The problem I had was installing the connectors.
Rich
Billy,
You need to pick a coax that will provide your VHF with a strong signal for the length of the run. I bought 30' of Anchor Marine grade RG8X for my mast and I installed the connectors to it.
I went to Radio Shack, Home Depot, Lowe's, and I called Rudy. Nobody had it in long lengths except for a local radio repair company who didn't want to sell it to me. They buy it in large quantities for their own jobs.
Check out the specs on someone's web site and find out the Ohms rating for the length needed and go from there.
Now is the time to order it because if you wait too long and wind up going to Worst Marine the last minute, you're going to get ripped off like I did.
What really makes me laugh is that they were selling marine copper duplex cable for a fraction of the cost that they were selling the coaxial cable which is a tinned copper conductor. Priceless!
According to the link provided above "Marine VHF applications require 50 ohm coax. TV cable is 75 ohm and is not suitable." So my idea about the Home Depot stuff is probably wrong..... But, you may be able to find 50ohm at the depot, they really don't say on their website. Just list as available in 50, 75, & 93 ohm ratings.
Billy,
There's one more thing I should mention. Make sure that you get the right connectors for the coax. I bought the connectors at Radio Shack and the girl in there handed me the wrong ones. I had to go back and change them. I had told her that I wanted the PL 259 coax connector and after I got home I noticed that end where the wire goes in had a 1/2" hole and my cable is only 1/4".
There's one more thing I should mention. Make sure that you get the right connectors for the coax. I bought the connectors at Radio Shack and the girl in there handed me the wrong ones. I had to go back and change them. I had told her that I wanted the PL 259 coax connector and after I got home I noticed that end where the wire goes in had a 1/2" hole and my cable is only 1/4".
It was so mild out today that I went outside and removed part of the cover on the boat that was tied around the bottom end of my mast so that I could start constructing my mast plug.
I had unscrewed my old stainless steel mast plug with the tabernacle hinge plate attached to it, back in the fall so I could bring it in the house and study it.
I needed to get an imprint of the inside edge of my mast so I could make the pattern for a plug that would fit into the bottom of the mast. Easier said than done, but I came up with a method that worked. I spread a little Vaseline around the bottom edge of the mast and applied some blue chalk line powder on it. I was able to place a piece of cardboard over the bottom of the mast and use my soft mallet to make an imprint on the cardboard by tapping the cardboard as I held it against the mast. After I got the imprint of the mast transferred to the cardboard, I cut it out and used it as a pattern to trace on to the Trex. It took a long time to get it to fit, but I was successful.
My next job will be to cut out the 1/4" thick Aluminum plate to the shape of the bottom of the mast and cut out two more pieces of the Trex to that same shape. Hopefully everything will come right when I get it drilled for the two holes and put it all together. This Mickey Mouse contraption should be lighter in weight and look presentable, I hope. I know of no one who has ever done this to a sailboat mast. It may be a first but as long as it works, I'll be happy.
I had unscrewed my old stainless steel mast plug with the tabernacle hinge plate attached to it, back in the fall so I could bring it in the house and study it.
I needed to get an imprint of the inside edge of my mast so I could make the pattern for a plug that would fit into the bottom of the mast. Easier said than done, but I came up with a method that worked. I spread a little Vaseline around the bottom edge of the mast and applied some blue chalk line powder on it. I was able to place a piece of cardboard over the bottom of the mast and use my soft mallet to make an imprint on the cardboard by tapping the cardboard as I held it against the mast. After I got the imprint of the mast transferred to the cardboard, I cut it out and used it as a pattern to trace on to the Trex. It took a long time to get it to fit, but I was successful.
My next job will be to cut out the 1/4" thick Aluminum plate to the shape of the bottom of the mast and cut out two more pieces of the Trex to that same shape. Hopefully everything will come right when I get it drilled for the two holes and put it all together. This Mickey Mouse contraption should be lighter in weight and look presentable, I hope. I know of no one who has ever done this to a sailboat mast. It may be a first but as long as it works, I'll be happy.
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Well, here we are 3 months later, with beautiful sailing weather upon us. Let's checkup on how we did:
- Refinishing the tiller - complete
- Making a tiller cover - not complete (putting #1 at risk of having to do it again :cry: )
- Adding two shelves to the hanging locker area...one is a shelf for a (small) library - complete. Added "Two years before the mast", "Life on the Mississippi" to the library.
- Repainting the topsides - complete
- Adding ventilation to the v-berth - not complete
- Fixing leaking port - complete!
- Not on original list:
- Stereo - not complete, but very close. All parts ready, and all wires soldered, etc. Maybe the next two weeks.
- New furling line - complete
Cleaning up Toe Rails-- caulking underneath looks shabby
I saw this older thread on toe rail recaulking (#13 in thread)...
After removing the badly flaking varnish from my toe rails I have decided to go a bit with teak oil on them, and they look great now :dance: . I need to clean up the bedding caulk at the base as well though, what do you recommend? Scratch out what I can from the sides and fill back in? What product for this type of job?
Thanks for the pointers,
JQ
Hi Joe (and other Odayers),
I saw this older thread on toe rail recaulking (#13 in thread)...
After removing the badly flaking varnish from my toe rails I have decided to go a bit with teak oil on them, and they look great now :dance: . I need to clean up the bedding caulk at the base as well though, what do you recommend? Scratch out what I can from the sides and fill back in? What product for this type of job?
Thanks for the pointers,
JQ
Jonny,
I'm not sure how wide the toe rails are on the O'Day 27. The toe rails on the O'Day 222 are about 3/4" I think. They are very narrow. Rudy had told me one day that the toe rails on the O'Day 192 are the same width as, I think he said the O'Day 30 or 32, which is a heck of a lot wider than the ones on my 222.
The reason I mention this is because a lot of times you may accidentally kick the toe rail with your foot and dislodge it a little or enough to cause it to leak at that screw hole. My toe rails are held in place with screws and I need the adhesion more than just the caulking.
I used 3-M Adhesive Caulking 4200 on mine because I don't want those toe rails to move. I'm tired of fixing leaks. Anything that involves wood or metal to fiberglass, I use a regular adhesive caulking.
For plastics like hatches, hatch cover lens, and port lights on the side of the cabin, I am now using Dap Silicone Rubber adhesive Caulking.
I just removed the lens in my old forward hatch cover about a week ago and re caulked it with Dap and it's holding like a champ.
Today at the club I mounted a Harken Traveler on my boat and I used BoatLife Boat Caulk. I remembered to countersink the bolt holes in the seats. Hopefully, it won't leak. It came out looking pretty good if I do say so myself.
I'm not sure how wide the toe rails are on the O'Day 27. The toe rails on the O'Day 222 are about 3/4" I think. They are very narrow. Rudy had told me one day that the toe rails on the O'Day 192 are the same width as, I think he said the O'Day 30 or 32, which is a heck of a lot wider than the ones on my 222.
The reason I mention this is because a lot of times you may accidentally kick the toe rail with your foot and dislodge it a little or enough to cause it to leak at that screw hole. My toe rails are held in place with screws and I need the adhesion more than just the caulking.
I used 3-M Adhesive Caulking 4200 on mine because I don't want those toe rails to move. I'm tired of fixing leaks. Anything that involves wood or metal to fiberglass, I use a regular adhesive caulking.
For plastics like hatches, hatch cover lens, and port lights on the side of the cabin, I am now using Dap Silicone Rubber adhesive Caulking.
I just removed the lens in my old forward hatch cover about a week ago and re caulked it with Dap and it's holding like a champ.
Today at the club I mounted a Harken Traveler on my boat and I used BoatLife Boat Caulk. I remembered to countersink the bolt holes in the seats. Hopefully, it won't leak. It came out looking pretty good if I do say so myself.
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Thanks Joe. I have some small openings in the caulking along the side of my toe rails, not many, but wanted to fill them in to avoid any water intrusion. I think I'll probe around with a pick and see if any areas are loose and should be cleaned out and refilled from the side. I figure that should do a good job without having to resort to a full-blown toe rail removal.
Thanks for the suggestions on 4200 and BoatLife, the areas I saw were so small my existing supply of Boatlife may suffice.
Regards, JQ
Thanks for the suggestions on 4200 and BoatLife, the areas I saw were so small my existing supply of Boatlife may suffice.
Regards, JQ
If you are able to move your toe rail from side to side by grabbing it with your thumb and fore finger, it's probably loose enough to leak at that screw. What you need to do is remove the bung and screw and try to pry the toe rail up just enough to get some caulking under it and over the screw hole. You may even need to countersink the hole in the toe rail a little more so that the bung can go in deep enough to adhere to the sides of the hole.
I took a tooth pick and used it to apply some caulking into the screw hole before inserting the screw and bung. I didn't want to get any caulking on the edge of the hole where the bung needs to adhere.
Most of the time I can get away without removing the whole toe rail which can be a pain plus the expense for bungs. I just found a whole can of Teak bungs down my cellar that I forgot I even had. If I'd have known that, I wouldn't have make a 1/2'' bung out of Teak two months ago,---by hand!
I got my traveler installed and now I have to figure out why the outboard cover won't stay on. Man, it's just been one thing after another. It's always something! :cussing:
I took a tooth pick and used it to apply some caulking into the screw hole before inserting the screw and bung. I didn't want to get any caulking on the edge of the hole where the bung needs to adhere.
Most of the time I can get away without removing the whole toe rail which can be a pain plus the expense for bungs. I just found a whole can of Teak bungs down my cellar that I forgot I even had. If I'd have known that, I wouldn't have make a 1/2'' bung out of Teak two months ago,---by hand!
I got my traveler installed and now I have to figure out why the outboard cover won't stay on. Man, it's just been one thing after another. It's always something! :cussing:
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