Winter Projects

Joe11688 · Dec 21, 2011

pipes111 said:
So I started several winter projects this week, hoping to have my boat in tip-top shape before Spring hits.

A few projects on my list:

Refinishing the tiller

Making a tiller cover

Adding two shelves to the hanging locker area...one is a shelf for a (small) library

Repainting the topsides

Adding ventilation to the v-berth

Fixing leaking port

What is on everyone else's list for the winter?

Making a tiller cover is a great idea. My tiller needs to be refinished again for next year. With a tiller cover, you never need to do it as often.

In the summer on hot days, I set up these blue polytarps while at anchor to keep the cabin cool and the sun out of the cockpit. I'm thinking seriously of buying some Nylon and adding some webbing for line attachments and waterproofing it. This guy came up with the idea for a cheap tarp shelter for camping. The advantages of the Nylon tarp is that it's lighter in weight and it's not as noisy as a polytarp. It takes up less room when it's folded up and I bet that it can be set up faster than a polytarp.
The material can be bought at Walmart pretty cheap and all that is needed for water proofing is a mixture of a tube of Silicon and Mineral Spirits.
Here's youtube film clip courtesy of MrCableGuyKen. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-X5n2kaAEj0&feature=relmfu
I plan on making a tarp shelter to use on my occasional kayak trips and day jaunts in the bush. If I like it, I'll make one to go over my boom on my boat for the next sailing season.
Joe

cb32863 · Dec 21, 2011

My list is long as I just got my 25 home a month ago.

Bulkhead & Chain-plate swap out.
Port Jib sheet winch servicing.
Minor interior fixes.
Mounting horseshoe throw ring.
New Windex.
Inclinometer.
Bulkhead compass.
Swap out centerboard line/cable.
Platform for grill.
New name graphics.
Adding second battery.
Refit electrical.
etc.....

More to do than I have time this winter, but there are some things that can be done while she is in the water. Also, I am limited a bit by temperature being up here in the north country.....

djplatt@cogeco.ca · Dec 21, 2011

Joe

http://www.flickr.com/photos/djplatt/5959636538/in/photostream

here is a picture of a sunshade that came with my boat. It works great and if I was going to replace it I would use the same colour Sunbrella as the sail cover. Couple of things to note about it are:

1. It actually clips on to the backstay. This solves to problem of it deforming over the forward end of the sail cover. I doesn't actually rest on the boom.

2. There are battens running from the ridge down to the edges of the tarp. This keeps the tarp about the right shape and stops a lot of flapping in the breeze.

3. There are shockcords at the attachment points that clip to the mast, stays and lifelines.

CPseudonym · Dec 21, 2011

About the only thing NOT on my list is paying slip rental. However, there is a nasty rumor going around my house that my admiral may soon start charging rent on her parking spot in the driveway:naughty:

Starting from scratch so I figured I'd start by rebuilding the trailer while shopping for a spar and long shaft motor. Then move onto re-bedding all the deck hardware. Reading Mainsails thread on doing it inspired me to go ahead.

ruidh · Dec 21, 2011

I don't know what I'm going to get to this winter.
Possible big projects.
Cabin sole replacement?
stern raill?
Fuel locker?

Pretty certain I'll do these:
Relocate batteries to stbd side
bilge pump
Reinsulate icebox
New registration letters
Polish and buff topsides.

Joe11688 · Dec 22, 2011

djplatt@cogeco.ca said:
Joe

http://www.flickr.com/photos/djplatt/5959636538/in/photostream

here is a picture of a sunshade that came with my boat. It works great and if I was going to replace it I would use the same colour Sunbrella as the sail cover. Couple of things to note about it are:

1. It actually clips on to the backstay. This solves to problem of it deforming over the forward end of the sail cover. I doesn't actually rest on the boom.

2. There are battens running from the ridge down to the edges of the tarp. This keeps the tarp about the right shape and stops a lot of flapping in the breeze.

3. There are shockcords at the attachment points that clip to the mast, stays and lifelines.

Blue Sumbrella is really the way to go for boom tarps. That one looks great too. The pics are great and that area is breath taking and so beautiful. That little girl is so pretty too.
I'd like to go with Sumbrella but my cabin cushions covers need to be replaced and I think that they should come first before investing in pricey boom tarp.

Right now the most important project I need to tackle involves figuring out a way to get back the 2" that I cut off the bottom of my mast last summer.
My mast was rotted near the bottom where the Stainless Steel mast plug was screwed into place for my Kenyon hinged Tabernacle. The bottom of my mast was all corroded because of the two different metals in contact with one another. My son cut 2" off the bottom of my mast and I wound up putting the same stainless steel plug back on the mast and using two pieces of 1" Trex to make up the difference that was cut off. The mast plug plate is 1/4" thick. It works, but it's too heavy and it really doesn't solve the problem of avoiding more mast corrosion in the future.

So my plan now is to use a 1" thick piece of Trex that I intend to cut to fit snug into the bottom of my mast and mount it on a 1/4" Aluminum plate. The 1/4" plate only has to overlap the mast about an 1/8". I plan on using five wood screws through the bottom side of the mast to hold the Trex in place. Then I'm going to need to figure out what to use to make up the 2" needed between the Aluminum plate, and the top Tabernacle hinge which shouldn't be a problem.
I could use two 1" pieces of Trex but I'd like to get away from that by using a piece of cast aluminum or something light and strong.
Capt'n Pauley came up with an idea of using HDPE for a mast step that could alleviate the electrolysis problem, so my question is why can't I use Trex for a mast plug between my stainless steel hinge tabernacle?
http://captnpauley.typepad.com/ If I use stainless steel wood screws through the side of my mast to hold the Trex plug in place, I'll surely insulate the screws from the Aluminum.

Do any of you DYI sailors have some thoughts on this? What I have right now works but I don't like it. The tabernacle looks kind of hacky doesn't it? I had a 1" piece of Teak under the tabernacle for many years and I recently replaced it with a piece of Trex and it will remain permenant. Raising the mast tabernacle by only 1" turned out to be the best thing I ever did to my boat. It allowed more clearance off the top of my cabin to enable my mast to lay almost horrizontal while pinned to the tabernacle and ready to be raised. This works out great if you use a Gin Pole for raising/lowering the mast.
Please feel free to chime in on this boat project because I really need help on this one.
Joe

Joe11688 · Dec 24, 2011

pipes111 said:
Trinkka,
I like the idea of the tarp; I may look into that when I do a little cruising. I have owned Enterprise since April and haven't even slept onboard yet. That's got to change!

CB 32863,
What is a horseshoe throw ring?

Update:
Today I put another coat of paint on the starboard topside; another coat of varnish on the shelves and tiller. Not on the original list, I do plan to install a stereo before spring. A few tunes while lazing a sunny afternoon in the lake will be a good thing.

Pipes,
A lot of sailors aren't too keen on sleeping aboard while at anchor. It really depends on where you anchor. Most of the coves I anchor in are pretty protected and the holding ground is mud. I've anchored in places where I had to put out two anchors in the event that the wind or current changed during the night, the boat could then be pulling off the stern anchor attached to the bow cleat.
I've found that through the years, the more you anchor the more confidence you'll have that you're boat is going to stay put and not slip the anchor. If she does happen to slip, you'll know it immediately because the boat will drift sideways and the noise of the water lapping up against the side of the hull will alert you even if you're asleep. Myself, I'd rather anchor than use someone's mooring any day. I've been using a Fortress FX-11 Aluminum Danforth anchor and it really holds my boat great.
Joe

Indysailor · Dec 29, 2011

Bulkhead replacement. Removed them at haulout and now need to find a source for the plywood. I was surprised at how easily they came out. Also removed mast step for rebedding.

Hand rails and hatch runners will be refinished and the old bulkheads will be made into hatch boards.

cb32863 · Dec 29, 2011

pipes111 said:
CB 32863,
What is a horseshoe throw ring?

Pipes, one of these. LINK

Some folks have the throwable cushions for the required throwable flotation device. My boat came with a horseshoe buoy. Usually mount the bracket on the stern rail.

Joe11688 · Dec 29, 2011

I picked up a horseshoe buoy with the bracket in a yard sale years ago and it looked great on my boat but it was always in the way especially when I tied up to a dock. I had a small life ring before that and that was OK but you can't use these things for anything else. For a small boat like mine, a throwable cushion will get more use as a back rest. I usually keep a line tied to it and I always make sure that it's secured to my stern rail with a slip hitch so it doesn't get blown overboard.

Joe11688 · Dec 30, 2011

pipes111 said:
Thanks cb for the explanation. A throw ring definitely means business. No idea where I'd mount one on a 23.

Indy,
Toerails, hatch runners, and hand rails all need refinished on Enterprise. Does any finish last more than a year or two? I haven't committed to refinishing these yet, due to everything else I want to get done.
How to remove hatch runners and toe rails? I could find no screws on the backside. Looks like the screw holes have been filled on the finished sides, and you just have to drill out the fill to remove the screws?

Pipes,
I wouldn't remove the hand rails, toe rails, or the hatch moldings. You would need to remove the Teak bungs to get at the screws in order to remove them. Then you'd need to caulk them and glue in new bungs. You run the risk of developing leaks if you remove them. Trust me on this. Last year I found two separate leaks in my toe rails. You're better off trying to clean them up right where they are. Just mask off the area with masking tape and do the best you can with them.
Stay away from any type of Teak cleaner with Oxalic Acid that can and will eat out caulking. Use a soap and stiff bristle brush to clean it if you have to. I've been down that road before with those wonder hull cleaners and what I got for my trouble was a mess of leaks coming in from the screw holes under my gunwale moldings after the acid did it's work. I learned the hard way. There's nothing worse than a leaking cabin.
Joe

CPseudonym · Dec 31, 2011

Thanks for that Joe. I was looking at my toe rails and trim today trying to figure out the best way to clean them up. Thought about sanding them in place and that advice you gave to pipes was the conformation I needed.

~Craig

Indysailor · Dec 31, 2011

I agree with Joe. My handrails are in terrible shape- no plugs left and they badly need rebedding. Not sure if I'll pull the hatch runners. One of them needs repairing which I may not be able to do on the boat. Otherwise, I'd leave stuff in place unless it's leaking.
I'm not sure what I'll use on them. At this point they are all just gray. They were varnished at one time, but not anymore. And this is not necessarily a problem- teak doesn't mind being unfinished and I'm not sure I want to start the cycle of refinishing every year.

RichBone · Dec 31, 2011

Clean up the teak pieces with something like soft scrub or a product made for teak with a scrub brush. Unless you're replacing them or if they're leaking don't bother removing them. If you do (I replaced all of mine when I did my rebuild) then consider caulking them with butyl tape. Sanding will remove wood and I don't personally think it's necessary. I like the texture of the raised grain. IMHO of course.

Rich

Joe11688 · Dec 31, 2011

Indysailor said:
I agree with Joe. My handrails are in terrible shape- no plugs left and they badly need rebedding. Not sure if I'll pull the hatch runners. One of them needs repairing which I may not be able to do on the boat. Otherwise, I'd leave stuff in place unless it's leaking.
I'm not sure what I'll use on them. At this point they are all just gray. They were varnished at one time, but not anymore. And this is not necessarily a problem- teak doesn't mind being unfinished and I'm not sure I want to start the cycle of refinishing every year.

If they aren't leaking, I would just buy some Teak bungs and glue them in. I'm sure you know how to install them with the wood grain.

Last fall, I had two toe rails that were leaking like a sieve at two separate screw holes and I was able to remove the bung from each of those screws to get them out without having to remove the whole toe rail. I think that I had to drill the bung hole a shade deeper to have enough room for the bung but before I put the screw back in I took a putty knife and a flat screw driver and lifted that portion of the toe rail up enough to slide a thin shaved Popsicle stick with some 3-M 4200 on it, into the screw hole in the deck. Then I removed the tools and put a little 4200 on a tooth pick and carefully inserted it into the hole in the toe rail. This worked out great because I was able to tighten the toe rail and stop the leak without having to remove the whole toe rail.
When I first noticed the leak, I thought it was coming in from the gunwale molding so I removed part of my gunwale molding on that side of the boat and caulked the screw holes under it. After I found out that my diagnosis was wrong, I grabbed the toe rail with my thumb and index finger and tried to wiggle the molding. Sure enough. It was loose. If I'd have looked a little harder I could have seen daylight right under that toe rail where the screw was loose. If you try to wiggle them with your thumb and fingers, they shouldn't move at all. This is why I like to use a good adhesive caulking on these teak moldings. If they're not leaking though, you're better off not removing them unless you absolutely need to.
Joe

CPseudonym · Dec 31, 2011

RBone said:
Clean up the teak pieces with something like soft scrub or a product made for teak with a scrub brush. Unless you're replacing them or if they're leaking don't bother removing them. If you do (I replaced all of mine when I did my rebuild) then consider caulking them with butyl tape. Sanding will remove wood and I don't personally think it's necessary. I like the texture of the raised grain. IMHO of course.

Rich

I never considered letting the raised grain show. Interesting idea. Mine are worn in a way that has left the bungs and surrounding teak slightly raised.

Can the bungs be made of a slightly denser material?

Can I clean them with a mild TSP solution?

Thanks for the ideas guys ~Craig

RichBone · Dec 31, 2011

CPseudonym said:
I never considered letting the raised grain show. Interesting idea. Mine are worn in a way that has left the bungs and surrounding teak slightly raised.

Can the bungs be made of a slightly denser material?

Can I clean them with a mild TSP solution?

Thanks for the ideas guys ~Craig

The surface of the bung would be the end grain

Rich

Winter Projects

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