Go ahead and order the new style bow eye from Catalina Direct and the backing block too. They have a nice stainless bow shield too, but that is optional. You are probably going to order the keel hanger bolt kit, so kill two birds with one stone. I would suggest also ordering the keel bushing and a new keel pin. You might not need a new keel pin (they are $24), but you won't be able to tell unless you've gotten the old one out. Usually, anyone with and elongated pin hole has a nasty gouge worn into the keel pin.
BTW... Check out pclarksurf's posts.... I think in his last thread there are some good picture examples of how to set up lumber to build a cradle for the hull when removing the trailer.
You need to consider one of two strategies; your keel is half off... it will fall off when you try to remove the trailer unless you do one of two methods;
1. Unhook the lifting cable from the end, you already have the hangers unbolted. Lay some thick foam or other thick padding on the trailer frame and use lumber to brace the keel. With the transom supported by a cradle or boat stands you'll lift the bow with your cherry picker; as you come up with the bow the keel will clear the pocket and someone (very carefully) will have to monkey with bracing and gently guide the keel to allow it to lay over to its side on the padding you placed on the trailer frame. WARNING, this can be unsafe unless you plan very well.... That keel weighs over 500 pounds!
2. Don't unhook the winch cable and get bolts back into the hangers, they don't have be tightened down fully, just wrist tight. As long as your keel winch is functioning properly and keeps the cable securely in the up position and the hanger bolts are in, the keel will be fully supported and stay put under the boat as you remove the trailer. Then you can slide a lumber cradle (hopefully on wheels) under the boat, lower the keel into it, brace the front, remove the hanger bolts and allow the front to come down (slow, use a jack).
I know all this sounds like a TON of work, but right now that keel is dangerous until properly repaired. If you have a plan, gather your supplies, and have a few helpers with you, this job can be done in two or three weekends and you'll be sailing by August or sooner.
You need to consider one of two strategies; your keel is half off... it will fall off when you try to remove the trailer unless you do one of two methods;
1. Unhook the lifting cable from the end, you already have the hangers unbolted. Lay some thick foam or other thick padding on the trailer frame and use lumber to brace the keel. With the transom supported by a cradle or boat stands you'll lift the bow with your cherry picker; as you come up with the bow the keel will clear the pocket and someone (very carefully) will have to monkey with bracing and gently guide the keel to allow it to lay over to its side on the padding you placed on the trailer frame. WARNING, this can be unsafe unless you plan very well.... That keel weighs over 500 pounds!
2. Don't unhook the winch cable and get bolts back into the hangers, they don't have be tightened down fully, just wrist tight. As long as your keel winch is functioning properly and keeps the cable securely in the up position and the hanger bolts are in, the keel will be fully supported and stay put under the boat as you remove the trailer. Then you can slide a lumber cradle (hopefully on wheels) under the boat, lower the keel into it, brace the front, remove the hanger bolts and allow the front to come down (slow, use a jack).
I know all this sounds like a TON of work, but right now that keel is dangerous until properly repaired. If you have a plan, gather your supplies, and have a few helpers with you, this job can be done in two or three weekends and you'll be sailing by August or sooner.
Thanks guys great info. I'll let everyone know how this turns out. The tough thing at the moment is that I'm suddenly having to take care of a family emergency. The timing couldn't be worse. Will update when I can.
Okay, had a difficult day had to take my father-in-law to the ER. I was right in the middle of removing the keel hangers so had to leave the keel in a precarious position. So I finally got home after dark and proceeded to attempt to make the keel secure. The pin and hangers are in good shape so I decided to go ahead and put it all back together with new bolts. I'm definitely going to do a complete restore of the keel this winter. The cable looks good. Had an interesting time getting the hangers to line back up with the mounts on the boat. Plus I was able to adjust the bunker to take some pressure off the dent. Not there yet but will need to replace the port side bunker to get it fully corrected. Bolts are in and torqued to 20 ft lbs. This will do for now I really want to take it out this weekend. Got to test it out if I have some troubles then I'll pull it out and just redo the necessary items to make her sea worthy.
The port side hanger in place.
The starboard hanger in place.
It's not pretty but it will work. I'll snap another pic tomorrow to show how it's setting on the trailer now. It's not resting on the keel like it was before.
The port side hanger in place.
The starboard hanger in place.
It's not pretty but it will work. I'll snap another pic tomorrow to show how it's setting on the trailer now. It's not resting on the keel like it was before.
Not yet. Have to go to ACE Hardware tomorrow. The ER emergency kinda through me for a loop. I wanted to make sure they would tighten properly and they did. It's setting a lot better on the trailer now too.
I hate to say that was a bad idea... Without Loctite you should never go more than wrist tight on a stainless bolt or you risk galling. Thread locker is as important for lubricating the threads as you tighten as it is for thread holding when it dries. You shouldn't have a problem, 20 ft pounds shouldn't be enough to gall the threads unless there were any big chips or junk in there. They should back out fine, just use a jack to support the front of the keel, then you can back out one at a time any the hangers shouldn't move. You also used lock washers right?
New bolts, blue lock tight, and weldments are cleaned out. All back to place and secured at 20 ft lbs. Feeling relieved. Time to finish cleaning cabin a putting everything back together. Just got the outboard. Followed the recommendation of the Catalina 22 experiment and bought a new Tohatsu 8 hp electric start from online Outboards. I'd rather have a little too much engine than not enough. Plus it was in my budget.