What wood to use for motor mount?

May 3, 2024
11
Morgan 22 Lake Erie
The boat is a Morgan 22. Motor is 6hp Tohatsu. See the photo of how the motor mount is set up.

The block of wood is attached to the mount by 2 screws which go all the way through the wood. Then the motor clamps on the block of wood. I bought the boat in this configuration and it seems to work well. I've noticed some splintering/rot on the wood block so I want to replace it.

What kind of wood would you recommend for this use case? Can I use "Southern Pine", which is readily available at my local Home Depot? Also, not sure if I should use "pressure treated" or not. Thanks.
 

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Mar 26, 2011
3,670
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I used to worry about rot and would look to fiberglass and plastics for motor mounts. But I've had a few motors vibrate loose, and now the idea of an easily replaced, sacrificial layer that the motor can bite into is starting to seem like a good idea. For that set up, I'm thinking pressure treated deck wood might be perfect. It's not a heavy motor.

People laugh at this one because they are young girls, but I bet 50:1 that dad mounted the motor and they did nothing wrong. I feel for them. That could have been my daughter, and it would have been my fault.
Motor comes off
 
May 3, 2024
11
Morgan 22 Lake Erie
I used to worry about rot and would look to fiberglass and plastics for motor mounts. But I've had a few motors vibrate loose, and now the idea of an easily replaced, sacrificial layer that the motor can bite into is starting to seem like a good idea. For that set up, I'm thinking pressure treated deck wood might be perfect. It's not a heavy motor.

People laugh at this one because they are young girls, but I bet 50:1 that dad mounted the motor and they did nothing wrong. I feel for them. That could have been my daughter, and it would have been my fault.
Motor comes off
That's sort of what I was leaning towards... I can buy an 8ft board 2in thick 10in wide of pressure treated Southern Pine for $16. I could make a bunch of these identical blocks out of that. I understand it's not the ideal wood for the job but it would be easily replaceable and like you said I can really clamp into it.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,752
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Easily found at a box store is stair Tread. They can be soft or hard wood. It will be boards glued together to form a 12 by 36" board. $10 here in Pacific NW. Yo can get several pieces out of a 3 ft piece.
You can use for plywood. Get the B/C piece for the better glue. Or Exterior plywood. Most of the box stores will have small cut pieces they call "Project Cut".

@thinwater struck truth, that that wood provides a better group for the motor mount and that is serves like a zinc as sacrificial. It may outlast your ownership of the boat.
 
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Sep 24, 2018
3,262
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
I picked up a green 2x12 about eight years ago and have been cutting it down little by little for every boat. No issues so far. Much better than plastic. They do see water as the stern squats at WOT. Be sure to check the clamps of the motor every few minutes when you first install it. Then every 30 minutes, hour, etc. By the second or third outing, it should be secured. I had a motor go for a swim once because I forgot to do this.
 
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dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
4,217
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
An excellent choice is black locust. Should be available in the Erie area.

dj
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Why not use plywood? Just epoxy glue pieces together to get the thickness you want. It will be stronger than a pine board yet still some softness to let the clamps bite into it. Always attach a safety cable to your motor to prevent it going swimming.
Look at the transom of an inflatable boat, the industry has already perfected this solution.
 
Apr 10, 2010
106
Catalina 310 166 Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
If due the soft wood used and vibration encountered that would cause the motor to come loose, why not secure the motor mounts on the motor to each other or tie them together to a nearby strong point. This would prevent them coming loose risking the loss of the motor. I think starboard would be an excellent choice. Or am I not understanding the problem.
 
Jan 11, 2014
12,704
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
If due the soft wood used and vibration encountered that would cause the motor to come loose, why not secure the motor mounts on the motor to each other or tie them together to a nearby strong point. This would prevent them coming loose risking the loss of the motor. I think starboard would be an excellent choice. Or am I not understanding the problem.
The problem with soft wood is the compression developed by the mounting screws which crushes the wood fibers making it difficult get the screws tight enough. Some motor mounts provide for through bolting which could be an option.

The problem with starboard is thickness, the max thickness is 1" at that thickness I wonder if it is strong enough. Gluing up several layers to build thickness really isn't an option with starboard.
 
May 3, 2024
11
Morgan 22 Lake Erie
For people suggesting I glue plywood together, I don't think that's an option in my case. If you look at the picture I have screws running sideways through the piece of wood. Wouldn't the screws separate the glue seams? So now my problem is finding a nice piece of hardwood thick enough (1.5in).
 
Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
For those cross bolts you will be drilling holes. Plywood is laminated wood with each layer glued. Epoxy gluing pieces together will just be adding more layers. The epoxy joints will probably be stronger than the wood. The plywood assembly will be a lot stronger than a PT pine board. Plus your clamping force of the motor is further putting the joints in compression. If you are considering plastic use G10 and laminate that to the thickness you want. G10 is fiber reinforced plastic, way stronger than starboard. You can still drill and cut it but it is tough stuff and very strong. Counterbore two holes maybe 3/16 deep with a spade drill for the clamps to be securely retained. G10 won’t compress the way wood does.
 

SFS

.
Aug 18, 2015
2,083
Currently Boatless Okinawa
Excellent points, and I completely forgot G10. OP, you might want to spec out the cost of laying that up vs. plywood. It might be worth checking your local big box store for plywood offcuts, which could be really cheap. Don't forget the cost of your epoxy, and (if you care) the value of your time.

StarBoard is available in a 1.5 inch thickness.
 
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LloydB

.
Jan 15, 2006
927
Macgregor 22 Silverton
I used a recycled plastic 2x4 from a local lumberyard. I recall at the time being somewhat surprised it actually cost a bit more more than a 8 foot stud.
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,262
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
G10 will cost a fortune. Plywood is glued together with well, glue and you'd have to find a UV resistant epoxy to get it water resistant. So your glue and epoxy both have a limited lifespan even with UV inhibitors.

I'd look at plastic lumber or outdoor lumber. I'd lean more towards outdoor as it wont compress as much. Whatever you go for, remember to re-tighten the clamps for the first few outings. They will loosen much like a soft aluminum car rim
 
May 3, 2024
11
Morgan 22 Lake Erie
Plastic boards wasn't something I even considered. What do you guys think about this product? Seems like a StarBoard knock off

I appreciate the input from everyone, first time doing something like this. Especially the tips about make sure to check and retighten the clamps the first few times.