What wood to use for motor mount?

thinwater

thinwater

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Mar 26, 2011
3,677
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
I've had HDPE (Starboard), G10, PT, and plywood. HDPE is a hard NO for me. It will work, yes, you could counterbore the holes, and it will cost a bunch to not work better. Plywood works in some applications, but it;'s not what yours was designed for. G10 is a pretty funny suggestion. Heavy too. Just make it out of PT deck boards or what ever fits and figure on replacing it every 10 years ... if you still own the boat. The motor will be more secure. If there is a bracket where you can sink a screw into the boards, all the better.

But nothing slippery. No point. The mount you have was designed for wood.
 
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dLj

dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
4,271
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
Here''s a data table of woods including black locust.

robidecking.com

Compare Black Locust Decking vs Alternatives

Why is Black Locust the superior decking choice? Learn it compares to alternatives based on durability and environmental impact.
robidecking.com robidecking.com

I've sourced black locust in Erie in the past. You should be able to find it in a lumber yard. It's an excellent wood for what you are doing.

dj
 
FeelinMorgan22

FeelinMorgan22

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May 3, 2024
11
Morgan 22 Lake Erie
thinwater said:
I've had HDPE (Starboard), G10, PT, and plywood. HDPE is a hard NO for me.
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You guys are killing me haha. I guess this is a "100 ways to skin a cat" type situation. I will say this solution appeals to me. I am not overly concerned with the solution lasting forever. I just want to get back on the water and not lose my motor! One note to add, I think my bracket is made of aluminum so I would have to use non treated wood due to possible corrosion.

dLj said:
I've sourced black locust in Erie in the past. You should be able to find it in a lumber yard. It's an excellent wood for what you are doing.
Click to expand
Thanks for the recommendation I will keep an eye out for it when I go to a lumber yard.
 
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Project_Mayhem

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Sep 24, 2018
3,285
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
FeelinMorgan22 said:
I think my bracket is made of aluminum so I would have to use non treated wood due to possible corrosion.
Click to expand
This hasnt been an issue. In eight years I see zero signs of corrosion either from a chemical reaction or from UV/water exposure. Remember, aluminum siding is put right up against plywood in buildings.
Check your clamps for tightness every 15 minutes or so while motoring on your first outing
 
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jssailem

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
22,800
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Ok...
Garelick Stainless EEz-In Auxiliary Outboard Motor Brackets
1721419149977.png Builds and sells a plastic adjustable motor mount. This one is in black. It also comes in white. HDPE

I had one of their mounts on my 15ft sailboat for 18 years.

Garelick 71058 Stainless Steel Outboard Motor Bracket
1721419363638.jpeg Here is one in plywood.

Here is a motor mount in pine. I note it has been varnished. Looks beautiful.
1721419437077.jpeg

You can make it out of what ever you choose. It will likely last beyond the period you own the boat.
As the Nike phrase goes.
"Just Do It!"
You will be pleased.
It really is like a pair of tennis shoes. When they start to wear thin you buy a new pair.
 
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jibes138

jibes138

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Jan 27, 2008
3,086
ODay 35 Beaufort, NC
Laminated wood with epoxy as the glue is not exposed to the sun inside the joint it is hidden between layers of wood. A laminated board with alternating grain will be much stronger than a solid board. G10 is expensive so find some fiberglass sheets from a derelict boat that is being cut up for scrap, or scraps from a windmill blade that washed up on the Vineyard beaches, laminate those together with epoxy and you will have home made G10 for cheap. Or get some cloth and lay up a sheet on a cookie sheet lined with wax paper. Maximize the cloth to resin ratio.
 
dLj

dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
4,271
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
jibes138 said:
Not one suggestion to use teak? Why?
Click to expand
Not a good wood for this application.
Too expensive.
No longer available in sizes needed, so you'd have to laminate small dimensional pieces.
Not a good choice here.

dj
 
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Project_Mayhem

.
Sep 24, 2018
3,285
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
jibes138 said:
Laminated wood with epoxy as the glue is not exposed to the sun inside the joint it is hidden between layers of wood. A laminated board with alternating grain will be much stronger than a solid board. G10 is expensive so find some fiberglass sheets from a derelict boat that is being cut up for scrap, or scraps from a windmill blade that washed up on the Vineyard beaches, laminate those together with epoxy and you will have home made G10 for cheap. Or get some cloth and lay up a sheet on a cookie sheet lined with wax paper. Maximize the cloth to resin ratio.
Click to expand
The edges will be exposed plus it'd be best to seal it from water exposure but then that's exposed to UV. Sounds like a lot more work to create an item that will require maintenance. I'm surprised this thread hasn't been locked yet
 
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Dave

Forum Admin, Gen II
Staff member
Feb 1, 2023
92
Project_Mayhem said:
I'm surprised this thread hasn't been locked yet
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As a general rule SBO doesn't lock threads because we think the original question has been answered or the conversation has become circular. We will lock a thread if the conversation has become contentious and has or is headed to violations of our rules. And occasionally, if a really old thread is resurrected and might be better served with a fresh start. We much prefer having the community police itself; if the thread is beginning to beat a dead horse, members should just ignore it. Alternatively, members can add "Likes" or "Helpfulls" to the post with which they agree or believe to be the best answers.
 
Ralph Johnstone

Ralph Johnstone

.
Jan 4, 2006
7,171
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
1721534063526.png


Time to get practical.

1721534161267.png
For a lousy $40.00 and no surface treatment ?

How can you go wrong ? It's permanent.

As long as the 12" X 12" piece is big enough and you've got the woodworking tools for the job. Recess the the holes for the clams pads by about 1/8" to 1/4".

One thing I've learned about using screws for structural purposes in HDPE, use long screws (2-1/2" SS or more in this case) and drill the pilot holes so the screws goes in without too much resistance. Make the pilot holes too small and the board will split after a few years.

Be sure you have all the POWER tools required to do this. This stuff is beautiful to work with power tools but cannot be worked with hand tools.
 
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