What is best outboard for 1972 Catalina 27

[Summerbreeze]

Hello I just bought my first boat..a Catalina 27. It has a 9.9 HP Johnson Motor on it..but it looks old and I cannot start it up as it has lost its pullstart...Please advise if I bought a outboard new motor what would be best..and also easiest to use and safest and most reliable and size.?can i buy one second hand..and/or is it easy to buy a new pullstart?
Thank you for your help..newcomer to all this.

 

[justsomeguy]

Fixing that outboard shouldn't be too difficult. Get a service manual and become familiar with your Johnson.

 

[JRT]

I hate dealing with old motors, I'd get a new one in extra long (25") shaft. Most would put a 9+ hp on that boat.

https://onlineoutboards.com/collections/tohatsu-outboard-motors/shaft-length_25-extra-long

This vendor is great to deal with and free shipping.

 

[Joe]

If you want 9.8hp or larger, the old Johnson and Evinrude's are the only type that will tilt up into the original configured motor well... Later models will have a higher profile cowling and they won't clear the opening without modification. My boat came with a Johnson sailmaster 15 hp... that fit perfectly... however... it was beyond repair with worn crankshaft and bearings. If you're handy around OB's look for something like that.
Oh, I forgot... you already have one . Well, then call around and see if you can find a mechanic to work on it.... You might try Amber Marine in Costa Mesa... though it's been a while and the mechanic could have retired ... or died???
Anyway, I found a 5 year old Tohatsu 9.9 back in 2000, that came off a Mac 26m... seems the guy wanted 50hp so he could pull skiers I guess. It was a remote control, no tiller, electric start... PerfEct! It would tip up into the opening if you pulled off the cowling/cover... so that's what I did thinking I'd modify it after a bit.... heh, heh.. that was 18 years ago... and that mod is still on the drawing board... because you get used to it. I paid $800 for the motor and another 250 for Amber Marine to dial it in with proper parts, tune up, etc. Totally worth it.

I only tilt up the motor when the boat is docked or moored... it's got a canvas cover and actually sits completely inside the motor well.... NO problem.
When I'm using the boat... the motor stays down, cowling installed, gearshift in neutral ready to go.,,, just like an inboard.
My advice is to try to find an electric start, remote box motor.... and as long as it will tilt up by taking off the cowling... that's about the best you can get right away. Be aware that the C27's swept back rudder may interfere with an extra long shaft.... Measure what you have now to be sure, long (20 inch) will work I think.
The remote electric start is awesome. Four stroke's are more efficient but heavier... 10hp is more than adequate to push the boat along a 5+ kts through chop or current. 15 is ideal.... be sure you check motor weight tho. Over 15... too heavy, over powered. Good Luck.

Tohatsu makes a lightweight 9.9 that's got good reviews. You can't buy new 2 strokes in Ca,

There are various mods for this C27 issue... so start looking.

 

[gdudik]

Fixing that outboard shouldn't be too difficult. Get a service manual and become familiar with your Johnson.

Service manual? You need a service manual? Most of us figure it out in our early teens.

 

[JimInPB]

A lot of the older Johhnie/rudes had a cam bearing in the center of the pull start (AKA recoil starter). A cam bearing slips in one direction of rotation, like a normal bearing, but grabs tight in the other direction. If those cam bearings got the wrong lubricant (oil was the worst) then they just slipped in both directions. A lot of "failed" OMC pull starts just needed to have the center bearing cleaned & properly greased.

That aside, on most of the older Johnnie/rudes, the flywheel had a provision for wrapping a rope around it, so that you could still pull start the motor, even if the recoil starter & electric start motor had both failed. Those were tough old motors with a lot of redundancy built in. I have made it back to shore running on only half the cylinders in a V-4. Most of my boats have been updated to 4-strokes, but I still have one running on a 1980's vintage Johnnie/rude. It's still a good motor & it weighs less than modern motors of the same HP, even the E-tec.

Johnnie/rude is a nickname for older OMC outboards. Back then, OMC owned both Johnson & Evenrude. The same motor was sold under both brand names.

One thing to keep an eye on with the older OMC stuff is the charging system. Originally, some of the older ones had an unregulated rectifier that came off the yellow AC wires from the charging loop. Those things were good at frying batteries with overvoltage if you didn't add enough electrical loads on the system. Sierra makes an updated rectifier/regulator unit that is drop-in on many motors & requires minor filing of a little aluminum to fit on others. I've had good luck with them. It's nice to not have to watch your volt meter anymore when the motor is running.

 

[Sumner]

I hate dealing with old motors, I'd get a new one in extra long (25") shaft. Most would put a 9+ hp on that boat.

https://onlineoutboards.com/collections/tohatsu-outboard-motors/shaft-length_25-extra-long

This vendor is great to deal with and free shipping.

Agree, have bought two outboards from them, Tohatsu 9.8 extra-long shaft and 3 1/2 long shaft,

Sumner
========================================================================
1300 miles to The Bahamas and Back in the Mac...
Endeavour 37 Mods...
MacGregor 26-S Mods...http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/endeavour-main/endeavour-index.html
Mac Trips to Utah, Idaho, Wyoming, Canada, Florida, Bahamas

 

[Brian D]

Not trying to be flippant here, but if you lost the pull start, just put a new one on. Pull start is nothing more than a rope attached to the flywheel. Nylon, maybe 1/4" ought to take care of that. Unless, of course, you are talking about something else.

 

[Summerbreeze]

I hate dealing with old motors, I'd get a new one in extra long (25") shaft. Most would put a 9+ hp on that boat.

https://onlineoutboards.com/collections/tohatsu-outboard-motors/shaft-length_25-extra-long

This vendor is great to deal with and free shipping.

thanks..but would rather buy second or fix this and buy a smaller back up

 

[Summerbreeze]

Not trying to be flippant here, but if you lost the pull start, just put a new one on. Pull start is nothing more than a rope attached to the flywheel. Nylon, maybe 1/4" ought to take care of that. Unless, of course, you are talking about something else.

Great thanks Brian...yes ..it's an old 9..9HP Johnson long shaft.. having just bought the boat not sure if it is something else or not..if it is that simple ( it is supposed to be) I would rather fix this..and buy a smaller 6HP back up..as gosh 9.9HP long shaft engines are expensive. However if anyone happess to be selling a used Johnson 9 .9 HP long shaft let me know

 

[Summerbreeze]

Service manual? You need a service manual? Most of us figure it out in our early teens.

HA LOL..yes I was geting to "Some Other Guys" comment..I am incorporating it into my Stand up act

 

[Summerbreeze]

A lot of the older Johhnie/rudes had a cam bearing in the center of the pull start (AKA recoil starter). A cam bearing slips in one direction of rotation, like a normal bearing, but grabs tight in the other direction. If those cam bearings got the wrong lubricant (oil was the worst) then they just slipped in both directions. A lot of "failed" OMC pull starts just needed to have the center bearing cleaned & properly greased.

That aside, on most of the older Johnnie/rudes, the flywheel had a provision for wrapping a rope around it, so that you could still pull start the motor, even if the recoil starter & electric start motor had both failed. Those were tough old motors with a lot of redundancy built in. I have made it back to shore running on only half the cylinders in a V-4. Most of my boats have been updated to 4-strokes, but I still have one running on a 1980's vintage Johnnie/rude. It's still a good motor & it weighs less than modern motors of the same HP, even the E-tec.

Johnnie/rude is a nickname for older OMC outboards. Back then, OMC owned both Johnson & Evenrude. The same motor was sold under both brand names.

One thing to keep an eye on with the older OMC stuff is the charging system. Originally, some of the older ones had an unregulated rectifier that came off the yellow AC wires from the charging loop. Those things were good at frying batteries with overvoltage if you didn't add enough electrical loads on the system. Sierra makes an updated rectifier/regulator unit that is drop-in on many motors & requires minor filing of a little aluminum to fit on others. I've had good luck with them. It's nice to not have to watch your volt meter anymore when the motor is running.

 

[Summerbreeze]

Oh cool..thanks for all the tips..I am going to try what you say..which is what we colloquially refer to as "#8 fencing wire" - "she'll be right, mate" ..otherwise I will ahv eo find a seoncd hand Johnson 9.9HP

 

[Summerbreeze]

Fixing that outboard shouldn't be too difficult. Get a service manual and become familiar with your Johnson.

This is going into my stad up comedy routine

 

[Summerbreeze]

View attachment 155734 View attachment 155735 View attachment 155736 View attachment 155737 View attachment 155738 If you want 9.8hp or larger, the old Johnson and Evinrude's are the only type that will tilt up into the original configured motor well... Later models will have a higher profile cowling and they won't clear the opening without modification. My boat came with a Johnson sailmaster 15 hp... that fit perfectly... however... it was beyond repair with worn crankshaft and bearings. If you're handy around OB's look for something like that.
Oh, I forgot... you already have one . Well, then call around and see if you can find a mechanic to work on it.... You might try Amber Marine in Costa Mesa... though it's been a while and the mechanic could have retired ... or died???
Anyway, I found a 5 year old Tohatsu 9.9 back in 2000, that came off a Mac 26m... seems the guy wanted 50hp so he could pull skiers I guess. It was a remote control, no tiller, electric start... PerfEct! It would tip up into the opening if you pulled off the cowling/cover... so that's what I did thinking I'd modify it after a bit.... heh, heh.. that was 18 years ago... and that mod is still on the drawing board... because you get used to it. I paid $800 for the motor and another 250 for Amber Marine to dial it in with proper parts, tune up, etc. Totally worth it.

I only tilt up the motor when the boat is docked or moored... it's got a canvas cover and actually sits completely inside the motor well.... NO problem.
When I'm using the boat... the motor stays down, cowling installed, gearshift in neutral ready to go.,,, just like an inboard.
My advice is to try to find an electric start, remote box motor.... and as long as it will tilt up by taking off the cowling... that's about the best you can get right away. Be aware that the C27's swept back rudder may interfere with an extra long shaft.... Measure what you have now to be sure, long (20 inch) will work I think.
The remote electric start is awesome. Four stroke's are more efficient but heavier... 10hp is more than adequate to push the boat along a 5+ kts through chop or current. 15 is ideal.... be sure you check motor weight tho. Over 15... too heavy, over powered. Good Luck.

Tohatsu makes a lightweight 9.9 that's got good reviews. You can't buy new 2 strokes in Ca,

There are various mods for this C27 issue... so start looking.

Thank you so much..yes I was wondering about the "long" or "extra long" so you've answered that.Yes I am looking..and I think my dock has approved vendors so sounds like its worth getting a mechanic

 

[Benny17441]

I'm quite unfamiliar with the concept of having a backup to the outboard. A sailboat is the best hybrid I have ever encountered. If the engine fails, I have the sails to power the vessel. The only backup that I would need costs about $120 a year and fits in my wallet and that is a BOATUS tow insurance card.

 

[agprice22]

If you do decide on a new outboard, we would need to know your motoring situation before recommending a HP. Prevailing wind direction in relation to your dock, currents, distance from dock to sailing, are all good things to consider. It would stink to be underpowered, and it would be a shame to be overpowered.
I once had a 4 hp Mariner on a C22. It was fine in one marina where I had less than 100 yds to be in the lake, raising the sail. It was frustratingly underpowered in another marina where I had to run 1/2 mile into a current, against the wind, through 2 ft chop. I would have it wide open and be barely making headway against the elements. I swear walkers on the jetty passed me!

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

My Meridian 25 has been powered for years with a Yamaha 8, standard shaft length. I've cruised the boat from south Texas, to Annapolis Maryland, and all through the Bahamas. Coming up on 12,000 miles. Usually get hull speed at the "start" setting. Don't let anyone talk you into overpowering- if the hull speed is (as mine is) 5.5 knots and you are running against a 4 knot current, matters not how much HP- you will run roughly 1.5 knots or at best 2. All extra HP gains you is burning more fuel.

I also own a 21 foot Lindsey, which is powered quite nicely with a Yamaha 4 HP. Pretty close to a Catalina 22. Same thing- hull speed at roughly 1/2 throttle
Here's the Lindsey

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

All sailboat mfgs on the transom designed them to accomodate max 10 hp except for the power sailors by MacGregor and the Hunter 27 Edge which had thicker transom. I was a dealer for both manufacturers

 

[TheThunderCat]

How big of motor do you think this boat will take? I read someone did a 50hp. Could this handle something bigger than that? I bought the boat in this condition.