WC Headmate to Raritan

[marchem]

Somewhere during C-310 production Catalina changed the plumbing. Early models had a Y - valve to select between direct head discharge overboard or the holding tank. My boat, like the later models go direct to the holding tank. When they made the change, the shower and reefer discharge T'd into the head raw water intake line. I don't think that was a good thing to do. In any case, with the change I made, there is not chance of happening in my boat.

I don't think our C310 (#31, 2000) ever had a Y valve in the head discharge. But it wouldn't surprise me that things were plumbed in many different ways over the course of production.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

I think Peggy has recommended against getting any shower drain into the head intake;

Flushing with gray water from the sink OR the shower is a BIG no-no...'cuz the last thing you need is hair, soap scum, dirt, body oils etc in a toilet pump! Use clean water only.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

 

[BwWhisper]

In keeping with the head upgrade theme, are there different types of sanitary tubing for different functions in the head system?
For ex. are certain types better for the vacuum exposure at pump out while certain types are better for the tank inlet or water inlet functions? Can I but a quantity of 1 brand in the correct size and use it for all head plumbing?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Can I but a quantity of 1 brand in the correct size and use it for all head plumbing?

Yes...but-- If you only want to do this job once, you want to use the most odor permeation resistant hoses...those are Trident 101/102 or Raritan SaniFlex which are only available in 1" and 1.5" which you'd use for the toilet and tank discharge lines...they're also expensive (but not nearly as expensive as replacing cheap hoses again in a few years). Odor permeation resistance isn't as critical for the toilet inlet line (3/4") and tank vent lines (standard size is 5/8", but you'd be smart to upgrade to 1") because no sewage goes through 'em...at least none should! So you can use less expensive hose--Shields or Trident #148--for those.

Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein

 

[richrsd14]

So Im also swapping out an old Headmate (broken pump) for a Raritan PHII marine version & it looks as if both the Raritan pump & bowl have bolts on the same centers & pattern as the old headmate. Because the Raritan base is longer & wound require modification of the wooden base it sits on, I’m thinking I could just leave the Headmate base in place & separately swap in the Raritan bowl & pump. Lot of headache saved. If for some reason bowl wont fit, it looks like I could just leave the old Headmate bowl & just swap in the pump. What do you think?

There have been several posts of swapping out the WC Headmate for a Raritan. This is how I did it. The WCHM has been out of production for years and rebuild kits are difficult to find. The seals started leaking on mine. Most annoying was the seal on the pump rod - push down the pump handle and water (we are going to call it water) squirted up the shaft, hitting your hand. The Admiral discovered this and that meant something had to be done. The Raritan PHII was too high (too tall off the deck) so I elected to go with the Raritan PHC, minus the bowl. The PHC uses the same pump as the PHII. I used the WCHM bowl, which bolts directly to the Raritan base with no modification. The head / shower compartment on the C-310 is compact, with little room to work. The first step was to remove the hoses (four). I presume they had not been removed since installation in 2005. They were not inclined to come off. Maneuver and twist room was scarce. It took some time and effort. If you look at the pictures, you will see I labeled them before removal to ensure the correct hose went back to the proper place. Most folks would think this is a no-brainer, but things can get confusing at times. I then removed the bowl. I found I could not get a 7/16 inch socket wrench on any of the nuts due to insufficient clearance. An open end wrench was used. The next step was removing the WCHM pump/base assembly. Again, clearance for a 1/2 inch socket wrench was limited and an open end wrench was used. There is little room in the rear of the head to swing a wrench; plan on 1/4 turn at a time. A universal might work but I don't own one. Save the 1/4" lag screws that hold in the WCHM base. Go buy another along with a washer and lock washer. The WCHM uses three hold downs and the Raritan uses four. I had hoped to use one of the of the existing holes. No go. The bases are different lengths and using one of the WCHM holes would push the bowl within an inch of the aft bulkhead. Trial fit the base and bowl carefully and check for clearance, including opening the bowl lid. Then do the same for the pump assembly. Mark the position for the new holes. Drill pilot holes, then the main holes, placing tape to keep the gelcoat from cracking. Counter sink through the gelcoat so the lag screws are not trying to cut threads in it to prevent cracking. Cut the threads into the holes with the lag screws. Remove the front ones and back out the rear ones high enough to accept the base tangs. Use tape to keep the washer/lock washer suspended up on the head of the rear lag screws. I then proceeded to mount the Raritan base. That was a mistake. It turns out one cannot tighten the bolts for the bowl or pump with the base mounted. Assemble the whole thing, then slide the whole unit onto the platform, positioning the rear tangs under the backed out rear lag screws. Remove the tape on the washers and tighten everything down. No, you cannot get a socket wrench on the lag screws. There are hoses, pump housing, and bowl in the way. It helps to be double jointed! Hook up the hoses and test it out. I suggest new hose clamps at this point and maybe new hoses, but I didn't install new hoses.
I've been told I should only use tools under supervision. I managed to get this done on my own. It isn't hard, it just takes time. The Admiral isn't happy, but her disposition has improved.
Consider the opportunity to put a T in the head sink drain to route fresh water raw into the head rather than sea water. I didn't do it, but it is on the list to get done before the next overnight event.

 

[seadaddler]

I did change from Head Mate to SeaEra electric sea water integral pump and no problem with install and the change within 1 or 2 years of getting our 07 H-36.
I do use fresh water most times when out short days but when out 2 or 3 weeks switch to salt water unless we have places to get fresh water.
But been very happy with the Sea Era for many years now and did replace macerator motor few years back.
Seadaddler

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

You've connected your sea water toilet to your fresh water plumbing??? Or (hopefully) using the head sink drain thru-hull as your flush water intake thru-hull and using the sink as your source of fresh water.

--Peggie