There have been several posts of swapping out the WC Headmate for a Raritan. This is how I did it. The WCHM has been out of production for years and rebuild kits are difficult to find. The seals started leaking on mine. Most annoying was the seal on the pump rod - push down the pump handle and water (we are going to call it water) squirted up the shaft, hitting your hand. The Admiral discovered this and that meant something had to be done. The Raritan PHII was too high (too tall off the deck) so I elected to go with the Raritan PHC, minus the bowl. The PHC uses the same pump as the PHII. I used the WCHM bowl, which bolts directly to the Raritan base with no modification. The head / shower compartment on the C-310 is compact, with little room to work. The first step was to remove the hoses (four). I presume they had not been removed since installation in 2005. They were not inclined to come off. Maneuver and twist room was scarce. It took some time and effort. If you look at the pictures, you will see I labeled them before removal to ensure the correct hose went back to the proper place. Most folks would think this is a no-brainer, but things can get confusing at times. I then removed the bowl. I found I could not get a 7/16 inch socket wrench on any of the nuts due to insufficient clearance. An open end wrench was used. The next step was removing the WCHM pump/base assembly. Again, clearance for a 1/2 inch socket wrench was limited and an open end wrench was used. There is little room in the rear of the head to swing a wrench; plan on 1/4 turn at a time. A universal might work but I don't own one. Save the 1/4" lag screws that hold in the WCHM base. Go buy another along with a washer and lock washer. The WCHM uses three hold downs and the Raritan uses four. I had hoped to use one of the of the existing holes. No go. The bases are different lengths and using one of the WCHM holes would push the bowl within an inch of the aft bulkhead. Trial fit the base and bowl carefully and check for clearance, including opening the bowl lid. Then do the same for the pump assembly. Mark the position for the new holes. Drill pilot holes, then the main holes, placing tape to keep the gelcoat from cracking. Counter sink through the gelcoat so the lag screws are not trying to cut threads in it to prevent cracking. Cut the threads into the holes with the lag screws. Remove the front ones and back out the rear ones high enough to accept the base tangs. Use tape to keep the washer/lock washer suspended up on the head of the rear lag screws. I then proceeded to mount the Raritan base. That was a mistake. It turns out one cannot tighten the bolts for the bowl or pump with the base mounted. Assemble the whole thing, then slide the whole unit onto the platform, positioning the rear tangs under the backed out rear lag screws. Remove the tape on the washers and tighten everything down. No, you cannot get a socket wrench on the lag screws. There are hoses, pump housing, and bowl in the way. It helps to be double jointed! Hook up the hoses and test it out. I suggest new hose clamps at this point and maybe new hoses, but I didn't install new hoses.
I've been told I should only use tools under supervision. I managed to get this done on my own. It isn't hard, it just takes time. The Admiral isn't happy, but her disposition has improved.
Consider the opportunity to put a T in the head sink drain to route fresh water raw into the head rather than sea water. I didn't do it, but it is on the list to get done before the next overnight event.
I've been told I should only use tools under supervision. I managed to get this done on my own. It isn't hard, it just takes time. The Admiral isn't happy, but her disposition has improved.
Consider the opportunity to put a T in the head sink drain to route fresh water raw into the head rather than sea water. I didn't do it, but it is on the list to get done before the next overnight event.
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