WC Headmate to Raritan

KZW

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May 17, 2014
831
Catalina 310 #307 Bluewater Bay, FL
There have been several posts of swapping out the WC Headmate for a Raritan. This is how I did it. The WCHM has been out of production for years and rebuild kits are difficult to find. The seals started leaking on mine. Most annoying was the seal on the pump rod - push down the pump handle and water (we are going to call it water) squirted up the shaft, hitting your hand. The Admiral discovered this and that meant something had to be done. The Raritan PHII was too high (too tall off the deck) so I elected to go with the Raritan PHC, minus the bowl. The PHC uses the same pump as the PHII. I used the WCHM bowl, which bolts directly to the Raritan base with no modification. The head / shower compartment on the C-310 is compact, with little room to work. The first step was to remove the hoses (four). I presume they had not been removed since installation in 2005. They were not inclined to come off. Maneuver and twist room was scarce. It took some time and effort. If you look at the pictures, you will see I labeled them before removal to ensure the correct hose went back to the proper place. Most folks would think this is a no-brainer, but things can get confusing at times. I then removed the bowl. I found I could not get a 7/16 inch socket wrench on any of the nuts due to insufficient clearance. An open end wrench was used. The next step was removing the WCHM pump/base assembly. Again, clearance for a 1/2 inch socket wrench was limited and an open end wrench was used. There is little room in the rear of the head to swing a wrench; plan on 1/4 turn at a time. A universal might work but I don't own one. Save the 1/4" lag screws that hold in the WCHM base. Go buy another along with a washer and lock washer. The WCHM uses three hold downs and the Raritan uses four. I had hoped to use one of the of the existing holes. No go. The bases are different lengths and using one of the WCHM holes would push the bowl within an inch of the aft bulkhead. Trial fit the base and bowl carefully and check for clearance, including opening the bowl lid. Then do the same for the pump assembly. Mark the position for the new holes. Drill pilot holes, then the main holes, placing tape to keep the gelcoat from cracking. Counter sink through the gelcoat so the lag screws are not trying to cut threads in it to prevent cracking. Cut the threads into the holes with the lag screws. Remove the front ones and back out the rear ones high enough to accept the base tangs. Use tape to keep the washer/lock washer suspended up on the head of the rear lag screws. I then proceeded to mount the Raritan base. That was a mistake. It turns out one cannot tighten the bolts for the bowl or pump with the base mounted. Assemble the whole thing, then slide the whole unit onto the platform, positioning the rear tangs under the backed out rear lag screws. Remove the tape on the washers and tighten everything down. No, you cannot get a socket wrench on the lag screws. There are hoses, pump housing, and bowl in the way. It helps to be double jointed! Hook up the hoses and test it out. I suggest new hose clamps at this point and maybe new hoses, but I didn't install new hoses.
I've been told I should only use tools under supervision. I managed to get this done on my own. It isn't hard, it just takes time. The Admiral isn't happy, but her disposition has improved.
Consider the opportunity to put a T in the head sink drain to route fresh water raw into the head rather than sea water. I didn't do it, but it is on the list to get done before the next overnight event.
 

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Feb 26, 2004
22,760
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
Nice job. For those interested in how others have done it:

Head Replacement 101 - Installation of PHII Head http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3797.0.html

Peggie Hall's Top Ten Hits

Head Odors 101 http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5755.0.html

Head Odors 101.1 - "T" into sink drain: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5755.msg38216.html#msg38216

Head Leaks and Vented Loops 101.1.a http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5865.0.html

Head Odors 101.2 The Difference between KO & Odorlos (scroll up to Reply #2) http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=890493&highlight=odorlos

Head Odors 101.3 Flix of New Vent http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8185.msg57288.html#msg57288

Head Hoses 101 http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5738.0.html

Head Pumps 101 Why just pouring water into the bowl is NOT a good idea http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5865.msg40604.html#msg40604

Fresh Water System Recommissioning 101 - Peggie Hall's "Cocktail" Rotten Egg Odor http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5836.0.html

PHII Installation with Photos http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3797.msg45617.html#msg45617
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
I wish you'd asked for some advice before you did all that. You got it all right, but it didn't have to be anywhere NEAR that difficult!

For those who are contemplating a similar swap out....
"The first step was to remove the hoses (four). I presume they had not been removed since installation in 2005. They were not inclined to come off."
Warming hoses with blow dryer (use a heat gun ONLY if you know what you're doing with one!) makes the job much easier. Warming them plus a little K-Y surgical jelly applied to outside of the fitting and the inside of the hose makes them a lot easier to put ONTO fittings. However, because rubber and plasticizers dry out and become hard and brittle over time, leading to cracks and hose failure, the average working life of any hose is about 10 years... it would have been smart to replace the hoses...a job you should do now.

Next, remove the entire old toilet...THEN remove the bowl. Fill ALL the mounting bolt holes. I'm not sure what you bought, but the sbo.com store has the complete base and pump assembly for both the PHII and the PHC "conversion" Raritan LBA Upgrade for almost any toilet Put your bowl on it, set it down where it needs to go, mark your bolt hole locations...pick it up, drill the holes, set the new toilet down and secure it with the bolts...connect the hoses (don't forget the intake vented loop between the pump and the bowl!) and you're done.



 

KZW

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May 17, 2014
831
Catalina 310 #307 Bluewater Bay, FL
Peggy. I obtained the PHC conversion from this site, SBO. I checked other sites and SBO provided a reasonable price.

Yes, it could have been easier and I should have posted here first. I asked some of my mates at the marina. Three guys gave four opinions. None own a C-310 and all their installations were a little bit different.

Looking for education here: I did reinstall the vented loop, and didn't use the hose the Raritan kit provides for pump to head bowl. What is the purpose of the vented loop? One presumes it is anti siphon, but siphon from where to where???
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
Looking for education here: I did reinstall the vented loop, and didn't use the hose the Raritan kit provides for pump to head bowl. What is the purpose of the vented loop? One presumes it is anti siphon, but siphon from where to where???
The intake vented loop is needed on any toilet that's even partially below the waterline...and it needs to be at least 6-8" above waterline AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL...which on most sailboats puts 2-3 FEET above the bowl (see photo...the larger one is the discharge loop, needed only if the toilet is plumbed to discharge directly overboard). And it needs to be installed between the pump and the bowl...'cuz if it's in the intake line from the thru-hull to the pump, it'll prevent the toilet from priming. (How many people have you heard complaining that they have to put their finger over the hole to flush? That's because the loop was in installed in the wrong place.)

The vented loop serves two purposes...1. it allows air into the line to break the flow started by priming the toilet...and 2. it puts a high arch in the line that prevents water outside the boat from seeking its own level INside the boat via the toilet bowl. Relying on the wet/dry valve to do that is risky 'cuz people don't always leave 'em in the dry mode, and...they do fail. And people also get very lazy about making sure to close seacocks when leaving the boat. Many a boat has sunk in its slip when no one was aboard to notice that shoes were floating in the cabin. The loop doesn't relieve you of the need to close seacocks and make sure the wet/dry valve is in the dry position, but it does provide a whole bunch more protection than you'd have without it.

Btw...as long as you're in "upgrade mode"...if your holding tank vent still runs into a stanchion, this would be a great time to move it to a new thru-hull--NOT a "vent" thru-hull, but an ope "mushroom" or "bulkhead" thru-hull (see photo) that you can stick a hose nozzle up against and back flush the vent line every time you wash the boat. Thru-hulls are easy install...any material except nylon (UV turns nylon to powder) will work.

thru-hull.jpg intake and discharge vented loops.jpg
 
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Nov 16, 2012
1,037
Catalina 310, 2000, #31 31 Santa Cruz
Peggy, the C310 doesn't vent via a stanchion, but to a small (1/4-1/2" ID?) fitting on the transom. Putting in the mushroom thru-hull is a great idea. PaulJ has some pictures of his upgrade and it's on my to do list.

KZW: if you decide to do it let me know and I'll give you some tips on the sizes of the fittings you need. 1" isn't always 1" ;)
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,045
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I also have WCHM and a slight amount of water escapes at the shaft. We're not that squeamish so it never really bothers us. It's an old boat, so we expect a certain amount of compromise in the sanitary department. It occurred to me after looking at your photos that the Raritan pump assembly attachment pattern may also fit the WC base, just as the WC bowl fits the Raritan base. Was there any consideration given to merely replacing the pump assembly?
 
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paulj

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Mar 16, 2007
1,361
Catalina 310 Anacortes,Wa
Vented loop in my mind is...........
The first picture shows the vented loop....circled in red.
The second picture shows the access port in medicine cabinet in head to Vented loop.
The 3rd picture shows cabinet removed.

paulj
:hook2:
 

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Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
If I've read your diagram correctly, it appears that the toilet intake, sumps and toilet discharge all share a single thru-hull. If so, it's a horrible idea...Toilets should not be flushed with gray water nor should they recycle the material in the bowl

It also appears that the intake vented loop is above the head sink...any reason why it couldn't be directly above the toilet?
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,045
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
The diagram seems to indicate an electric head discharge, not directed to the thru-hull in the diagram. The vent for the toilet intake seems to be the one that is in the hatch opening (probably over the toilet?). The vent for the sump discharge appears to be the one that is over the sink. I suppose the filter is theoretically there to cleanse the gray water for re-use in the toilet? If you don't use a lot of soap in the shower (I probably wouldn't on a boat), I don't know why shower water and ice-melt would be unacceptable for flushing the toilet.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
I suppose the filter is theoretically there to cleanse the gray water for re-use in the toilet? If you don't use a lot of soap in the shower (I probably wouldn't on a boat), I don't know why shower water and ice-melt would be unacceptable for flushing the toilet.
I suspect the filter is there to keep hair etc out of the sump pump (a couple of ounces of Raritan C.P. down the drains once a week when it can stand at least overnight would eliminate the need for any filter). At least I hope it is, 'cuz gray water is not recommended for toilet flushing. Soap scum is only a small part of what's in gray water...body oils...dirt, hair, etc...all of which can "gum up" a toilet pump. And if you think sea water intake odor is bad, it's nothing compared to the bacteria in gray water that's been allowed to sit and ferment....
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,040
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
KZW, I think that actually went pretty well as head projects go! They are all messy. They are gross. They involve multiple assemblies and disassemblies. Your body is twisted into knots. Friends and family avoid you due to odor. Multiple showers or a power wash are necessary to put it behind you. And in the end the Admiral says you could have done it better. Nice job!
 
Feb 26, 2004
22,760
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
It occurred to me after looking at your photos that the Raritan pump assembly attachment pattern may also fit the WC base,
because it doesn't, Scott. You might want to take a look at the photos in the first link I provided in my earlier post. Reply #4, IIRC has a few photos, one shows the two side by side up in my cockpit. The bolt patterns of the bottom of the pumps may, I say may, look similar, but look at the outlet connection.

You buy the LBA and use the old bowl, why make it even more complicated?
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
KZW, I think that actually went pretty well as head projects go! They are all messy. They are gross. They involve multiple assemblies and disassemblies. Your body is twisted into knots. Friends and family avoid you due to odor. Multiple showers or a power wash are necessary to put it behind you. And in the end the Admiral says you could have done it better. Nice job!
After reading that I wouldn't let you replace a roll of toilet paper on my boat, much less the toilet!:kick:

"Head" projects are only messy and gross if you don't do the necessary prep before taking anything apart. "Necessary prep" starts with planning every step of the project and making sure that each step will work. Gather the tools, lubricants etc that you know you'll need...make sure everything is handy. Make sure you have plastic bags and/or disposable aluminum pans to catch any spills. Then THOROUGHLY flush out the whole system with lots and lots of clean water.

NOW you can start taking things apart...WITHOUTmaking a mess.

Of course I fully realize why none of you ever want to do it that way. If you did things that way, you'd never have any "war stories"...and "head horrors" always trump all the others! :dancing:
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,045
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
You buy the LBA and use the old bowl, why make it even more complicated?
I have no idea what the "LBA" is. :confused:
My question is related to the original problem ... the pump was malfunctioning. I also have to admit that I like the Raritan pump assembly over the WCHM pump assembly. It appeared to me that the complication was in needing to re-use the old WCHM bowl with a new Raritan base (because the new base and bowl doesn't fit his space?). He had to buy the whole thing for about $450 and throw away the new bowl just so he could replace a malfunctioning pump. I was asking if he could have considered buying just the pump for about $280 and fitting it on his original base. From his pictures, the square bolt pattern looked similar. The discharge hose connection looks similar, too, so I see no problem with that.

However, looking at your side-by-side picture, it looks pretty evident that the bolt pattern has a wider base for the Raritan pump so it doesn't look feasible to attach the Raritan pump to the old WCHM base, afterall.
 
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Dec 2, 1997
8,709
- - LIttle Rock
LBA = Lower Base Assembly ...iow, everything but the bowl, seat and lid, which is what he bought for $288 from the Sbo.com online store. Raritan LBA Upgrade for almost any toilet

And you do need both the pump and the base...The mounting bolt pattern on both the W-C pump the Raritan PH II look alike, but the pumps aren't the same size...the holes on the pump and the base won't line up.
 
Oct 26, 2008
6,045
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Ah ... I missed that part of your 1st reply! :doh: In any case, my future appears to include an LBA. Like I said, the pump assembly looks like an improvement.
 

KZW

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May 17, 2014
831
Catalina 310 #307 Bluewater Bay, FL
Yesterday I disconnected the raw water feed to the head, put a T in the sink drain, and ran a line to the raw water intake on the head. My thanks go out to Stu Jackson for his expertise and assistance via private mail. I can now use seawater or fresh water for a flush. Picture 1 shows the parts. 5 feet of 3/4 sanitation hose, a 3/4" barb hose T, a 3/4 barb plug and 10 stainless clamps (six for the T, two for the connection to the head, and two for the old raw water line which I plugged). The T is about 8 inches below the water line. All connections should have two clamps. The T should be metal but I couldn't find one. There at brass items for pipe available, but I found that pipe 3/4 inch is different in diameter than hose 3/4 inch. Who knew??? I used a nylon T from West Marine. I keep the seacock on the sink close unless I need to drain the sink so I should be OK. I used a PVC tubing cutter to cut the drain line. This had an embedded wire. A knife will not work. A hack saw could be used but the cutter was fast and easy. I'm into easy. The second picture shows the seacock and hoses under the head sink. The shower drain and reefer drain are here on a Y valve along with the pump. The shower drain hose goes through a bulkhead hole and connects to the raw water inlet for the head. I was able to route the new hose to the head from the T through the same hole. I didn't have any glycerin, so used dish soap on the hoses and barbs. That was the hardest part. It took considerable effort and some number of adult words to get the hoses to seat fully on the barbs. The last picture is the finished T connection.
 

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Nov 16, 2012
1,037
Catalina 310, 2000, #31 31 Santa Cruz
KZW, I did the same thing (interestingly, the plumbing for our C310, #31, is quite different from yours). Although I now have the option of using seawater for flushing I find that I only use fresh. That way I don't need to remember to do a freshwater flush at the end of the day. We're at the dock often enough that running out of fresh water isn't an issue.

Our shower sump/reefer drain are teed under the galley sink, and have their own thru hull (galley sink thru hull is right next to it). I think Peggy has recommended against getting any shower drain into the head intake; that's possible with your setup, but as long as you're aware of it you can avoid it happening. I did end up with the old head intake thru hull connected to nothing which I'm guessing you also did.
 

KZW

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May 17, 2014
831
Catalina 310 #307 Bluewater Bay, FL
"I think Peggy has recommended against getting any shower drain into the head intake; that's possible with your setup"

Somewhere during C-310 production Catalina changed the plumbing. Early models had a Y - valve to select between direct head discharge overboard or the holding tank. My boat, like the later models go direct to the holding tank. When they made the change, the shower and reefer discharge T'd into the head raw water intake line. I don't think that was a good thing to do. In any case, with the change I made, there is not chance of happening in my boat.