Water in the oil

[JamesG161]

A siphon is a "dynamic" thing.
Simple shutting the sea water valve will STOP it. After a few minutes, you can reopen the sea cock.
From your picture, the black disc is your check valve.
It SETS closed on pressure
When pressure is stopped {engine stops] the disc should open air flow through your vent to stop the siphon.
Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

How do I verify this is the causal part?

I think I now see how yours works.
The curved copper piece is the vent pipe.
That black disc should be cleaned, and check the seating surface of the fitting.
The disc must be free moving in its fitting.
Jim...

 

[uralite]

I just found milky white oil.....

 

[JamesG161]

I just found milky white oil

What engine?
Jim...

 

[S.V. Windshadow]

Ordered a new high point Vented Loop from Defender. Arrives tomorrow. Hopefully that's the fix. Ruled out water pump as the seal is outside the engine. If it's not the vented loop I'll disassemble the exhaust elbow.

 

[Charles Erwin]

There are two pump shaft seals on motor driven water pumps like yours. They are arranged back to back. One keeps the motor oil in the motor. The other keeps the water in the pump thus out of the motor.

Charles

 

[JamesG161]

There are two pump shaft seals on motor driven water pumps like yours

Only one, see his/our sea water pump in my post#15.
_____

If it's not the vented loop I'll disassemble the exhaust elbow

There was ZERO Riser deposit in my MD22L that at ≈1100 hours on it.
If your Riser is above the static boat's water line, then no siphon back possible.
If you had too much back pressure from a restricted Riser, then you engine would be having issues at 2000 rpm.

It will only be in rare heavy seas, that water can slosh back from the muffler. If we are in 8' seas, I start my engine to prevent that back slosh.
_____
Your new high point vent looks like mine. Each spring I take off the top, make sure the disc check valve is clean and reassemble it.

Your sea water pump looks newly installed. Mine is still original OEM painted.
Really not much to go wrong with our sea water pump.

After you get your new High Point vent [siphon breaker], run your engine for maybe 30 minutes. Shut down and later check your oil for water.

Jim...

PS: Did you get my Private Message I sent to you?

 

[S.V. Windshadow]

Jim,

Installed the new high point valve. Will run engine and check in a.m.

@Jim - did not receive p.m.

 

[JamesG161]

You should be able to see water in oil after about 30 minutes of run and let the oil cool, if is NOT the high point vent
Jim...

PS: I just updated the Private Message to you.

 

[Pearson 39-II]

I hope this interesting thread has not gone to all private message. Windshadow, how did your re-testing go after installing the new vented loop?

 

[JamesG161]

@S.V. Windshadow didn't respond to my PM. Perhaps he is new to SBO to know how. Note his post#28 use of a tag to me.
Charles and I have been in a PM speculating the cause. Result of our PM discussion prompted my Post#29.
The engine run would without water in oil, would pinpoint the vent was the cause.

One added piece of info...
The pictures of his vent are really the OEM type vent.
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-explodedview-7746710-26-357.aspx

It surprised me, since mine is like the Defender one he bought in his post#25.
Perhaps my previous owner had similar problems and changed mine to the Defender type.
Jim...

PS: I have had no Water pump seal problems.

 

[Pearson 39-II]

Jim, I think your post #5 may be right - this may have happened over a longer period of time than his described 2 hr sail and 4 day layover. He was up 4 quarts of water?? If so, a single engine test run and then oil cool-down test might not show significant water in the oil even if the vented loop was not the culprit. Wouldn't that siphon path of open seacock, worn raw water impeller, blocked vented loop, and, say, enlarged piston ring gaps all need to to coincide to get fast transfer of water to the crankcase/oil sump without also resulting in some starting problems due to hydrolock from water in a cylinder? Wonder if he's ever seen water blowing out of the intake air filter at start.
I know this seems extreme but if I did the test run suggested, with a few repeats, after replacement of the vented loop and no water showed up in the oil, I would plug the vented loop and run the same tests again a few times. If water then did show in the oil we'd have validated the venting repair. If it didn't show water then restore the vent but consider the repair possibly incomplete. In any case a new water pump impeller and a cylinder compression test to check those rings/lands would seem prudent.

 

[JamesG161]

this may have happened over a longer period of time

I had a problem for 8 months, for a much different reason, I luckily found mine in time.
I never found the salt water until..
We didn't use our engine for ≈2 weeks in cold December.

What was happening to me...
1) Water would drip, drip, drip into oil
2) Engine starts, sluggish
3) Engine heat evaporates the water and leaves by the exhaust valves.
4) Salt crystal [my case, not his] filtered out
5) What water?

I suggest, it depends on the time between engine runs, as whether you find detectable water on the dip stick.
Jim...

PS: My VP diesel engine starts faster than my gas Ford Expedition.

 

[JamesG161]

Also @S.V. Windshadow is now shutting his sea cock after engine use, as I do.

Tip: Hang your engine key on the sea cock valve handle. Psssst don't tell pirates.

The failure of the Water pump seal components is very rare. [ to Charles]
It would take a failure of 2 lips seal components [part# 16] in my post#15.
or
As I noted before. his pump appears new, mine is still OEM painted.
Perhaps the bearings were not properly pressed on the shaft, which would not allow the O-Ring to compress and set/seal the other parts.
Jim...

 

[Pearson 39-II]

Also @S.V. Windshadow is now shutting his sea cock after engine use, as I do. .

In port I always close mine too. Underway under sail I keep that seacock open as I would expect Windshadow and most of us would so we can start the engine from the cockpit if needed without a trip down below. If Windshadow keeps the seacock closed now, as you said in your #21 post any testing for water in the oil is not meaningful re: either the leak path from the loop/exhaust riser/cylinder or the more direct plugged loop/water pump seal path - no raw water supply, no water to the oil pan. Until the boat gets underway again and the seacock remains open. I suggest the seacock be left open for testing the effectiveness of the repair.

 

[JamesG161]

I suggest the seacock be left open for testing the effectiveness of the repair.

After thinking a bit more on a valid test...
Always close the sea cock after any engine use.

This will focus the testing on his Water Pump Seal.

No water ever again, then by process of elimination...
It was his vent.
_____
Then much later engine use, still no water, he can confirm his vent for convenient transit anchoring or sails up.
Leaving his seacock open.
Jim...

PS: Closing the sea cock prevents a siphon too.

 

[S.V. Windshadow]

Thanks Gents for all the info. I have been back cruising for over a week. 1st day 7 hours motoring down the St. Mary's river. No water in oil (not burning any ether). After a week motoring and sailing, still no water in the oil. I am closing raw water seacock after engine shut down. Rebuild kit for old anti siphon valve arrived. Still have defender model in there. I'm just not willing to test leaving it open, as it took 6 oil changes to get it clear last time.