Tight furler

[jssailem]

I think Hayden is onto one of the possible issues. The way the drum seemed to catch and then jump suggests something may be worn internally. It may be a loose screw, perhaps a bearing that is rusted or has dirt in the bearing race.

Your line may have a good hand feel, but the diameter is too large for the drum space. The line in the image does not look to be smoothly wrapped. It appears to be rubbing against the inside of the drum. A new line of a smaller diameter may make the rotation a bit easier (less friction on the housing and a more consistent, smooth wrap).

 

[skunther]

I found the original documentation. It looks like I have the Hood Seafurl 700/800/900 SL from January 1993.

 

[skunther]

How hard is it to get these replacement screws? An Allan key immediately stripped this one. I’d have to hit it with pliers.

I assume I need to remove the tack sockets (what this screw holds in place) in order to pull up the turnbuckle tube and drum? When I try to pull it up, it butts up against something.

Nylon screws for the SS cover are sheared too, causing the gate to sag and chaff against the furling line. Where can I get these?

 

[jssailem]

Have you seen this site?

Hood Seafurl 800 Bearing Replacement

Sailing Chesapeake Bay books racing instructional Catamaran Delmarva Kayak Fishing DIY cheap maintenance repair boat cruising anchoring singlehanding

sail-delmarva.blogspot.com

This site might be a source.

SL Seafurl

 

[jssailem]

You might try a screw extractor.

Or drill out the center and pull the screw out.


Or you may need to drill the hole, retap the hole and get a replacement screw to match

 

[BrianQ]

The nylon screw is 1/4 x 20, IIRC the length is 3/8". If you can't find one 3/8" a longer one can be cut down short enough where it doesn't contact the turnbuckle of forestay.

 

[Project_Mayhem]

Your drum is very full. This is why I asked what model you have and what size genoa you are using. Big genoa with a smaller unit will cause this issue

Some of these furlers used 1/4-28 and some used 1/4-20. I'd suggest using a stainless screw with TefGel or Loktite to prevent corrosion. I highly suggest using Green Grease when re-assembling. Otherwise its extremely difficult to get the bearings to stay in place. I can look up where I got bearings and the screw from. The bearings were slightly magnetic IIRC

There should also be a plastic disc on or above the turnbuckle. It wont work smoothly without it and will cause premature wear of the aluminum parts as they rub against the forestay

 

[DanMaine]

I had a furler on my h37c. It was plastic on plastic for the bearings. I replaced it with a furler that had ball bearings and it made a tremendous difference for hauling the sail.

 

[skunther]

Your drum is very full. This is why I asked what model you have and what size genoa you are using. Big genoa with a smaller unit will cause this issue

Some of these furlers used 1/4-28 and some used 1/4-20. I'd suggest using a stainless screw with TefGel or Loktite to prevent corrosion. I highly suggest using Green Grease when re-assembling. Otherwise its extremely difficult to get the bearings to stay in place. I can look up where I got bearings and the screw from. The bearings were slightly magnetic IIRC

There should also be a plastic disc on or above the turnbuckle. It wont work smoothly without it and will cause premature wear of the aluminum parts as they rub against the forestay

It’s a 130 foresail. Maybe I should go with thinner line? Or would washing the line soften it up for better furling? Remove the core?

I’d love to know where you got parts. It seems the disk you mention may be missing or worn, and that may be causing the shifting of the tube on the forestay with each rotation. Which part on the schematic is it (attached)?

Also, how can I tell which model I have? 700, 800 or 900? The 700 uses a different screw on the tube than the 890 and 900.

Also, my hunch is this will be a protracted project involving waiting long stretches for hard to find parts. I’d prefer to address this in the fall so I can avoid interrupting this boating season waiting for parts etc. Is this a potentially catastrophic failure inducing issue, or could I use it for the season and address it in the fall? Is the worst likely thing that would happen the furler seizing up, forcing me to pull the jib down in whatever conditions it decides to seize in?

How do I properly check its condition? I need to remove those plastic screws in order to lift the unit high enough to inspect the turnbuckle, correct?

I’d like to check it and ensure it’s safely functional, but also don’t want to get buggered on a drawn out project awaiting parts, etc.

 

[dmax]

These are the last known people to have parts for the Hood SeaFurl - they were winding that business down 5 years ago when I had one that needed work, I ended up getting a new ProFurl: https://pompanette.com/product-tag/hood-yacht-systems-furler-systems/

 

[garymalmgren]

This looks like ....

Secure foresail halyard to stem.
Remove drum fittings ( and maybe first length of foil)
Remove drum completely.
Place on workbench or in vice.
Dismantle properly.
Inspect and repair in a clean well lit situation.


Trying to work on a quick fix in situ will probably take longer and lead to a lot of cursing.

Gary

 

[Project_Mayhem]

It’s a 130 foresail. Maybe I should go with thinner line? Or would washing the line soften it up for better furling? Remove the core?

People told me to remove core. I did some but because of my heavy weather sailing, I opted for a thinner line. Neither solved my issue. My sail wouldn't go out all the way without it jamming up. 150 genoa on an O'Day 25 with what was most likely the SeaFurl 700

I’d love to know where you got parts. It seems the disk you mention may be missing or worn, and that may be causing the shifting of the tube on the forestay with each rotation. Which part on the schematic is it (attached)?

It's 18 in the diagram. Pompanette would be your best bet. It wouldn't be difficult to make or 3d print. I switched to Green Grease and all stainless bearings from BC Precision.

The 700 uses a different screw on the tube than the 890 and 900.

Ahh that explains it!

Also, my hunch is this will be a protracted project involving waiting long stretches for hard to find parts. I’d prefer to address this in the fall so I can avoid interrupting this boating season waiting for parts etc. Is this a potentially catastrophic failure inducing issue, or could I use it for the season and address it in the fall? Is the worst likely thing that would happen the furler seizing up, forcing me to pull the jib down in whatever conditions it decides to seize in?

It might cause extra wear on your forestay but I believe you are correct. Call Pompanette. They bought out Hood's stock.

How do I properly check its condition? I need to remove those plastic screws in order to lift the unit high enough to inspect the turnbuckle, correct?

It depends on the length of extrusions vs your forestay but on my last boat I was able to lift up the whole furler and rest it on the disc to adjust the turnbuckle. No disassembly was required

If you must disassemble the extrusion pieces, do not drill out the rivets! You will enlarge the hole in your extrusion. Instead use an awl, centering punch or tap a drill bit to push the pin all the way through the rivet. In most cases the "wings" will break off. Last time i used a drill bit and a hammer. I tapped the pin through and then used the drill bit by hand, to wiggle the rivet out. Pompanette had a very knowledgeable woman that told me to drill. This method is better and causes less damage

 

[skunther]

Part 18 is intact and supports/centers the drum from the bottom. The unit seems to shift every rotation at the top, at the turnbuckle tube, not the bottom at the drum.

Would I be able to lift the entire furler further, that is would the turnbuckle tube fit/slid up over the bottom foil so I can inspect the turnbuckle if I remove the screw (3) and the tack sockets 1 and 2? Do the tack sockets secure/keep the entire unit below that bottom foil?

The furler does work. Should I just tighten up the forestay, get a thinner diameter furling line and enjoy the summer sailing season while planning to overhaul the furler this to the fall?

 

[skunther]

And does anyone know of a way to determine if I have the 700 or the 800/900 model? They use different screws for part 3, and I can source the 800/900 one, but not the 700 one. I don’t want to drill that screw out unless I know I have another that will fit.

 

[Hayden Watson]

Part 18 is intact and supports/centers the drum from the bottom. The unit seems to shift every rotation at the top, at the turnbuckle tube, not the bottom at the drum.

Would I be able to lift the entire furler further, that is would the turnbuckle tube fit/slid up over the bottom foil so I can inspect the turnbuckle if I remove the screw (3) and the tack sockets 1 and 2? Do the tack sockets secure/keep the entire unit below that bottom foil?

The furler does work. Should I just tighten up the forestay, get a thinner diameter furling line and enjoy the summer sailing season while planning to overhaul the furler this to the fall?

I suspect that you have the 800 based on the size of the boat.

Once you get part #3 out, you will be able to lift #1 out. That gives you the room to move the foil to the side which allows the large diameter pin that protrudes from #2 to clear its hole and be lifted out. After 1,2 & 3 are removed, the complete drum assembly will slide up over the foil to access the turnbuckle. You will just need to remove the shackle to the boats stem fitting.

At the very least, you need to find out why the drum and the turnbuckle tube (#4) are not turning together. That should come down to a problem with the (4) drum set screws which you should be able to source locally. My Ace hardware has them.

 

[jssailem]

Be sure to run a halyard from the mast head to the bow as a temporary forestay.

 

[skunther]

Be sure to run a halyard from the mast head to the bow as a temporary forestay.

If I detach the forestay to remove the furler, I most definitely will!

 

[skunther]

@Project_Mayhem, where did you source part #3: 1/4-20x3/8 screw in SS from? My local, and very well stocked, very extensive hardware store does not have anything short enough.

Also, my drum appears to be well set to the turnbuckle tube. I think what you’re seeing is the Swivel Top (part 9 in the diagram) free spin on its bearings.

Speaking of bearings - do I risk a bunch falling out when I lift the unit to inspect the turnbuckle?

 

[Project_Mayhem]

@Project_Mayhem, where did you source part #3: 1/4-20x3/8 screw in SS from? My local, and very well stocked, very extensive hardware store does not have anything short enough.

Also, my drum appears to be well set to the turnbuckle tube. I think what you’re seeing is the Swivel Top (part 9 in the diagram) free spin on its bearings.

Speaking of bearings - do I risk a bunch falling out when I lift the unit to inspect the turnbuckle?

It looks like I bought these off of ebay. The bearings will not fall out if you try to lift the furler and extrusions. My boat had some exposed forestay above the extrusions which allowed me to lift it. There's a spiral fastener that looks like a flat key ring. If you remove that and remove the bearing race, drum top, etc, then bearings will fall out. These are difficult to keep in place with grease. I can't imagine putting it back together using shaving cream to hold them in place for reassembly. I wouldnt attempt disassembly while it's still setup on the boat.

 

[jssailem]

I was thinking a belt and suspenders approach. You go to release the furler, and something hidden lets loose.