No changeStarboard is a good idea under the toilet. I like the teak under the aft chainplate bolts. I think i will do that instead of the stainless plate. Did you modify or change the head or sink any from fact. speks.
The first from the left is the original, but WM #281352 is very close. The second is a four prong and is WM #184226. The third, for the coax is a Cable Clam #540740. I didn't drill a hole big enough for the connector to go though, as I didn't want a hole that big inside. that is why the couple outside.Also. could you name tell me a little bit about the plugs you used for the mast going t hrough the deck. If you just give me the names or brief descrip i can look them up.
thanks
One issue with this you may or may not have thought about is that your standing rigging may have to be replaced depending on the thickness of the plate.Ok, so consider putting in a Starboard plate under the tabernacle, thats what the folks at the club said. Cool, I am encourage.
I was able to remove the sink and cooler as one unit. I disassembled it out of the boat, cleaned and refinished it, reassembled before going back into the boat. If you plan on replacing the hull liner, having it and the rear bulkhead removed will make it much easier.As far as the tear-out I am going toleave in the 'aft sink' area since that is in great shap. and it will save a lot of lumber.
I got it here: http://www.yourautotrim.com/huhfa.html I think I ordered 9 yards. I am not sure if I kept the diagram of how we laid out the pieces.Appleman, that's a very nice job you did. I'm going to do pretty much the same thing on mine this year- replace bulkheads, compression post and hull liner, after I tackle the side deck and cabin sole delamination. Where did you get the material for the hull liner? Sorry about hijacking the post emergpa1.
It's ok, thanks for the inputAppleman, that's a very nice job you did. I'm going to do pretty much the same thing on mine this year- replace bulkheads, compression post and hull liner, after I tackle the side deck and cabin sole delamination. Where did you get the material for the hull liner? Sorry about hijacking the post emergpa1.
oops forgot the pixnow with forward bulkheads out. At first they wouldn't budge. But i noticed that they were wedged in by the trim pieces once i removed the trim they slid out easily!
Anti-freeze? I recall it (ethylene glycol) can remove water from natural gas, and is cycled tthrough some natural gas systems in ways i am not understanding of. Anitfreeze is an alcoholtoo so that should work somehwat as a dryer, but I'm not familier with its drying properties in this situation. Does it evaporate quickly? It is a good preservative. I was thinking about using ecetone. but at this point may use many drill holes, with tarp, heater and time.emergpa1, You should stop the rot going on in the core and dry it as much as you can. I drilled quite a few holes in my side decks and cabin sole-http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/album.php?albumid=332 - then injected anti-freeze. I did this last fall and it seems to have dried out quite a bit. Git-rot will work but if you've got a lot of space to fill try thinned out polyester resin; it's cheaper.
Good info, I have mygirl under a good tarp and is keeping the boat dry. I have removed all the inner liner and ground and scrubed the inner hull. It looks good. i will add detail and pix to that task and post it later when it quits raining. MY next step will be to turn my entire attention to the deck and fitting. I will start at the pulpit and work back, addressing deck-issues as I go. Now that i have the interoir cleared out, many task should be a little easier as i have few obsticles to work around. Later i will go back to the enterior and refinish and refitt. If you could ask your friend about the project, and drilling holes vs cutting skin to dry the deck that would be great.Keith,
I just saw your pictures. I will reply in more detail when I get a chance.
RBone is offering good advice. A 26 is essentially a modified 25, 10 inches longer. So if he solved similar problem then his advice chould be good. I have no recent experience with that volume of the problem. My problems were always much smaller. But now I will go back and re-study past issues. Your discovery is making me take second looks.
Yes, I used a sharpie pen with baggies to label everything that would fit in them. Then blue tape with labels for bigger things, even if they were obvious. It expidited reassembly.
Is top of boat under tarp? Get heaters going in cabin today. I see you have electricity. I used two small space heaters at moderate temps for weeks on end.
Take all hole plugs out to facilitate air flow.
Appleman is a great resource. Does anybody know the other guy who gutted and rebuilt a 26 before Appleman. You need all the advice and directions you can get.
When making the new port bulkhead, since you have damage where you need accurate template for bend in hull, unless you can get exact measuremtents make a template to prove fit before cutting plywood of new bulkhead. Go to paper store and get big pieces of hard carboard to make prototype.
I cannot make a recommendation of the cabin top issue that I am comfortable with at this time. RBone and Appleman would offer better advice. All I can say is kill mildew and dry out. This may be achieveable without too many holes. I do not know answer.
Does anybody know of other internet list that have experience with solving this issue? In the degree and volume presented here?
I have a friend who does this stuff for a living. Just saw him yesterday. May be a week before I see him again. I will try to pose question at that time.
Ed K
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