That sinking feelin'..trouble with compression post
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Appleman, that's a very nice job you did. I'm going to do pretty much the same thing on mine this year- replace bulkheads, compression post and hull liner, after I tackle the side deck and cabin sole delamination. Where did you get the material for the hull liner? Sorry about hijacking the post emergpa1.
No change
The first from the left is the original, but WM #281352 is very close. The second is a four prong and is WM #184226. The third, for the coax is a Cable Clam #540740. I didn't drill a hole big enough for the connector to go though, as I didn't want a hole that big inside. that is why the couple outside.
One issue with this you may or may not have thought about is that your standing rigging may have to be replaced depending on the thickness of the plate.
I was able to remove the sink and cooler as one unit. I disassembled it out of the boat, cleaned and refinished it, reassembled before going back into the boat. If you plan on replacing the hull liner, having it and the rear bulkhead removed will make it much easier.
Rick
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I got it here: http://www.yourautotrim.com/huhfa.html I think I ordered 9 yards. I am not sure if I kept the diagram of how we laid out the pieces.
I may approach the core repair from the cabin, since i could remove the liner under the mast tabernacle fairly easity now, and can avoid cutting the exteriior and having to match gelcoat, etc. also i think the patch in the overhead fiberglass liner would be less noticable and actualy be forward of the bulkhead there, To decide what to do, and if i even need to replace any of the core, i will need to drill some holes in that area, and check the core. I hate to do that, feeling that i am going backwards. I have yet to do one thing to repair, so far everything i have done is a destructive act. Hmmm, there must be a moral in that.......
Thanks for the heads up regarding the standing rigging, Also the wood chisel worked great on removing the bulkheads, which i accomplished fairly easily before work tuesday.
I have yard work today. Spring comes early in the south, and i am already behind. I may get to work on my girl tonight. Your advice has been invaluable. Please check in!
keith
Thanks for the heads up regarding the standing rigging, Also the wood chisel worked great on removing the bulkheads, which i accomplished fairly easily before work tuesday.
I have yard work today. Spring comes early in the south, and i am already behind. I may get to work on my girl tonight. Your advice has been invaluable. Please check in!
keith
Everywhere i drill the core is wet! Around the mast, between mast and rear hatch and also to the forward hatch. all along both toe rails where the chainplates and stanchions attach. A little is rotten, but most of the core still light in color. if i follow the usual guidlines of one hole per inche to dry it out, my entire deck will be riddled with holes. Are there any suggestions?
Humm?
Do you have a big enough garage? If not cover with good tarp and put heater in cabin. Or several heaters in cabin to keep inside warm, 75 to 85 would be O.K. Heat for a few weeks and check results. Not so hot as to damage anything.
Vaccuum fixed to hole to draw out moist air.
Ed K
26
Do you have a big enough garage? If not cover with good tarp and put heater in cabin. Or several heaters in cabin to keep inside warm, 75 to 85 would be O.K. Heat for a few weeks and check results. Not so hot as to damage anything.
Vaccuum fixed to hole to draw out moist air.
Ed K
26
Ed, do you think i need to drill so many holes, or just remove all the stanchions, chainplates, etc, and allow to dry? Then should i fill with epoxy, or gitrot?
I have just about finished removing shelves and bulkheads. then I will grind off the remainder of the bulkhead tabs, and the liner backing. then, once the interior is tore out, i will remove all the through deck hardware. then carefully inspect the deck and repair or fill as needed.
I carefully label the origin of each part removed and attach the hardware to it's part in a baggy, also labeled in case it gets separated from it's part. I intend to get my cabinet maker to reproduce the wooden componients for me, saving me a bit of time on the reinstall. Also his finish work will be much better. I may laminate the bulkheads, but must keep in mind the width limitatioins, I may have to settle for paint on those. But I will trim with the teak wood, This should look nice: white bulkheads will brighten the interior and make it feel larger, giving it a classic look.
We shall see....
I have just about finished removing shelves and bulkheads. then I will grind off the remainder of the bulkhead tabs, and the liner backing. then, once the interior is tore out, i will remove all the through deck hardware. then carefully inspect the deck and repair or fill as needed.
I carefully label the origin of each part removed and attach the hardware to it's part in a baggy, also labeled in case it gets separated from it's part. I intend to get my cabinet maker to reproduce the wooden componients for me, saving me a bit of time on the reinstall. Also his finish work will be much better. I may laminate the bulkheads, but must keep in mind the width limitatioins, I may have to settle for paint on those. But I will trim with the teak wood, This should look nice: white bulkheads will brighten the interior and make it feel larger, giving it a classic look.
We shall see....
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emergpa1, You should stop the rot going on in the core and dry it as much as you can. I drilled quite a few holes in my side decks and cabin sole-http://forums.oday.sailboatowners.com/album.php?albumid=332 - then injected anti-freeze. I did this last fall and it seems to have dried out quite a bit. Git-rot will work but if you've got a lot of space to fill try thinned out polyester resin; it's cheaper.
Keith,
I just saw your pictures. I will reply in more detail when I get a chance.
RBone is offering good advice. A 26 is essentially a modified 25, 10 inches longer. So if he solved similar problem then his advice chould be good. I have no recent experience with that volume of the problem. My problems were always much smaller. But now I will go back and re-study past issues. Your discovery is making me take second looks.
Yes, I used a sharpie pen with baggies to label everything that would fit in them. Then blue tape with labels for bigger things, even if they were obvious. It expidited reassembly.
Is top of boat under tarp? Get heaters going in cabin today. I see you have electricity. I used two small space heaters at moderate temps for weeks on end.
Take all hole plugs out to facilitate air flow.
Appleman is a great resource. Does anybody know the other guy who gutted and rebuilt a 26 before Appleman. You need all the advice and directions you can get.
When making the new port bulkhead, since you have damage where you need accurate template for bend in hull, unless you can get exact measuremtents make a template to prove fit before cutting plywood of new bulkhead. Go to paper store and get big pieces of hard carboard to make prototype.
I cannot make a recommendation of the cabin top issue that I am comfortable with at this time. RBone and Appleman would offer better advice. All I can say is kill mildew and dry out. This may be achieveable without too many holes. I do not know answer.
Does anybody know of other internet list that have experience with solving this issue? In the degree and volume presented here?
I have a friend who does this stuff for a living. Just saw him yesterday. May be a week before I see him again. I will try to pose question at that time.
Ed K
26
I just saw your pictures. I will reply in more detail when I get a chance.
RBone is offering good advice. A 26 is essentially a modified 25, 10 inches longer. So if he solved similar problem then his advice chould be good. I have no recent experience with that volume of the problem. My problems were always much smaller. But now I will go back and re-study past issues. Your discovery is making me take second looks.
Yes, I used a sharpie pen with baggies to label everything that would fit in them. Then blue tape with labels for bigger things, even if they were obvious. It expidited reassembly.
Is top of boat under tarp? Get heaters going in cabin today. I see you have electricity. I used two small space heaters at moderate temps for weeks on end.
Take all hole plugs out to facilitate air flow.
Appleman is a great resource. Does anybody know the other guy who gutted and rebuilt a 26 before Appleman. You need all the advice and directions you can get.
When making the new port bulkhead, since you have damage where you need accurate template for bend in hull, unless you can get exact measuremtents make a template to prove fit before cutting plywood of new bulkhead. Go to paper store and get big pieces of hard carboard to make prototype.
I cannot make a recommendation of the cabin top issue that I am comfortable with at this time. RBone and Appleman would offer better advice. All I can say is kill mildew and dry out. This may be achieveable without too many holes. I do not know answer.
Does anybody know of other internet list that have experience with solving this issue? In the degree and volume presented here?
I have a friend who does this stuff for a living. Just saw him yesterday. May be a week before I see him again. I will try to pose question at that time.
Ed K
26
Anti-freeze? I recall it (ethylene glycol) can remove water from natural gas, and is cycled tthrough some natural gas systems in ways i am not understanding of. Anitfreeze is an alcoholtoo so that should work somehwat as a dryer, but I'm not familier with its drying properties in this situation. Does it evaporate quickly? It is a good preservative. I was thinking about using ecetone. but at this point may use many drill holes, with tarp, heater and time.
Keith,
I have heard that Anti-freeze or ethylene glycol having been used to kill mildew in boats before. This is not a new idea.
I have not had the degree of the problem you present. I will let you do the appropriate reseach.
However, you need to evaluate this approach. It is not being used to dry but to kill fungus.
Ed K
26
I have heard that Anti-freeze or ethylene glycol having been used to kill mildew in boats before. This is not a new idea.
I have not had the degree of the problem you present. I will let you do the appropriate reseach.
However, you need to evaluate this approach. It is not being used to dry but to kill fungus.
Ed K
26
I made a template from peg board to cut uniform holes in the deck around the port and starboard chainplates. After the finish the uniformity of the holes will draw less attention and make the spots appear intentional. Also, to regulate depth of holes I put a portion of a reusable drinking straw and a few rubber washers onto a drill bit, and secured that with masking tape so that each hole drilled wouild go only abouit 3/4 of an inch, or about 2/3 of thge way through the deck and core, leaving the inner skin untouched. Having a template made the difficult decision to drill much easier and i was very pleased with the results.
I was pleased to note that the test holes i drillled at the starboard chainplate deck area was negative for any sig dampness. but you can see how far i had to go on the port side just to get a reasonable amount of dryness on my drill bit samples. I was glad to see that the core is light in color, which hopefully indicates good wood-fiber intregrety that can be salvaged with drying. I still cant decide what to do at the mast area of the deck.
I was pleased to note that the test holes i drillled at the starboard chainplate deck area was negative for any sig dampness. but you can see how far i had to go on the port side just to get a reasonable amount of dryness on my drill bit samples. I was glad to see that the core is light in color, which hopefully indicates good wood-fiber intregrety that can be salvaged with drying. I still cant decide what to do at the mast area of the deck.
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Using the same template I drilled a significant number of holes around the mast, getting alot of wet wood samples, some black, as far as 18 inches away from the mast area, and guit drilling. most of the rot is at the center. i noticed on the curved surface of the deck my template slid, so i would secure it to a couple of holes with wood screws, untill time to move the template., I also oput some rubber matting on the backside, that solved the annoying tendency to slid, and kept the holes lined up. My intention with the mast is to remove the outer skin under the tabernacle, allow the area to completly dry, repair the core there and fill the rest of the holes with epoxy.
Emergpa1- I found most of my info online. Try searching with: Repairing cored decks; antifreeze and wood rot- and similar queries (some good stuff out there). Glycol, not alcohol antifreeze will penetrate into the wood fibers and replace water. Acetone will help dry out the wood. Somehow the wood has to dry out. A heat source or direct sunlight helps. The little tufts of paper towels seemed to do the trick over the winter. Also use an L-shaped bent nail or a small allen wrench attached to a drill inserted into the hole to tear up the old wood fibers and create a reservoir to hold the resin.
The weather is finally breaking enough up here in Michigan so I can finally start working on the boat. I want to start on the core before it gets too hot in my "boat shop". Over 70 degrees and the resin can setup before it penetrates into the fibers. Once I get the decks done and do some rebedding and recaulking I can take the shrink wrap off. I left the bulkheads in place so I could have the chainplates installed when I use the resin.
It's all virgin territory for me, taking it one day at a time. It's comforting to know that I'm not alone.
Fixing the nonskid where I drilled the holes can wait but that is doable too.
The weather is finally breaking enough up here in Michigan so I can finally start working on the boat. I want to start on the core before it gets too hot in my "boat shop". Over 70 degrees and the resin can setup before it penetrates into the fibers. Once I get the decks done and do some rebedding and recaulking I can take the shrink wrap off. I left the bulkheads in place so I could have the chainplates installed when I use the resin.
It's all virgin territory for me, taking it one day at a time. It's comforting to know that I'm not alone.
Fixing the nonskid where I drilled the holes can wait but that is doable too.
Good info, I have mygirl under a good tarp and is keeping the boat dry. I have removed all the inner liner and ground and scrubed the inner hull. It looks good. i will add detail and pix to that task and post it later when it quits raining. MY next step will be to turn my entire attention to the deck and fitting. I will start at the pulpit and work back, addressing deck-issues as I go. Now that i have the interoir cleared out, many task should be a little easier as i have few obsticles to work around. Later i will go back to the enterior and refinish and refitt. If you could ask your friend about the project, and drilling holes vs cutting skin to dry the deck that would be great.
One website among many i have found helpful is: http://t30makeover.com/id7.html
I am thinking about begining a new thread involving the makover of my oday 26, I would start with Pix of the problems that prompted the makeover, then post some sort of periodic updates of problems encountered and ways they were solved, tools used, detailed pix, etc. Hopefully getting lots of advice and counsel as i go. Then anyone later doing the same thing could come to the posts and follow the threads and get some help. Do you think this is a good idea. or should i just keep it in this thread?
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