Download it here. The app is searchable in the Google Play Store under Sailboat Owners.
Sorry iPhone/iPad users, we are still waiting on Apple. :(Click the X in the upper right corner to make this go away
Probably. Best to shut the engine down, and check the oil level. Let the engine cool, then lean over the top and check for loose connections at the pressure switch, down near the starter. Adding zip ties to the wire harness can help secure the connections. As mentioned, there is a plug at the pressure switch fitting that can be removed to install a sending unit or a hard line for the gauge. The gauge I bought is a mechanical one, and I can install the pressure line where the plug is. I haven't figured out yet where to install the gauge. Probably somewhere on the bulkhead aft of the engine.For the idiot newbie here (me) if my engine had actually run out of oil and not actually shut down, wouldn't I hear awful grinding sounds or something?
I bought the book 12 volt bible, and also electrical sailboat systems, got both on amazon, dirt cheap and worthy!Thanks! I have a multi-meter and took an elementary sailboat electronics class but, hope this isn't a stupid question, but what would I test with the meter? I am a newbie to figuring out the diesel and electrical systems on my new to me boat but want to learn.
Very helpful. Thanks!An oil pressure gauge is easy to add to the M25XPB. There's a fitting by the oil pan that you can screw a gauge into. See attached. I've got a picture somewhere. I'll also attach the corrected wiring for the pod and engine, although it's possible yours is wired differently, so you need to verify. It's a very confusing arrangement.
See my post #25. The port for the sending unit is located on the fitting that the oil pressure switch is mounted on. There is a plug in the fitting that can be removed to accept the sending unit.Thanks! I will. Btw, if I wanted to install a sending unit for an oil pressure gauge wouldn't that screw into a port on the engine in the same general area as the pressure guage? If so, being such a newbie, I would have to figure out how to wire it in to the existing wiring harness of that question makes any sense.
You can find the gauge at NAPA or any automotive supply store. The gauge usually comes with an assortment of fittings to fit different ports. Since this is a Kubota diesel, you will need a metric fitting. Most come with flexible plastic tubing to run between the gauge and the engine. This tubing works fine, but can become brittle with age. Copper tubing can be used instead, just remember to make a coil of the tubing near the engine to dampen any vibrations. Typically the kit will have ferrules that slide over the tubing to seal it to the gauge and fitting.Great info. If you have any tips for where to find and how to install the mechanical guage, that would be great! Thanks.
All valid concerns. Due diligence is a must. Check the engine, above and below each day of use. To be honest, I have seen just as many sending units leak as the hard line to a gauge. A few years ago, the pressure switch itself on my Universal started leaking, and I replaced it. A couple of years ago, my brother in law's Volvo diesel leaked at the oil cooler, and while removing it, I found that both oil pressure sending units had been leaking for some time. Any system has it's vulnerabilities, as you mentioned.IMHO an oil pressure gauge is more of a luxury than a necessity. A temperature gauge is far more necessary. You are unlikely to experience an oil pressure failure as long as there is oil in your crankcase. The only vulnerable place for a sudden oil leak and loss of oil is the oil filter; it is flimsy and exposed. If you take a quick look at your engine and the bilge under it before each day's outing you should be OK. On the other hand, all kinds of unforeseen and invisible problems can affect the cooling system, from broken impellers to a blocked raw water intake. I would be very uneasy with an added external oil line (flimsy and exposed) to a gauge. If you are going to install an oil pressure gauge, I would stay with the electrical model with the sending unit on the engine block.