Starter motor burned up?

[Richard19068]

Update: I tested my starter switch with a multimeter. Photo 1 is when I pull the starter switch = 12.59. Photo 2 is when I release the switch = 1.49. I did it ten times. Same results each time. Is this normal?

I don't think it would be normal to have 1.49V when the start switch is open (released). I think it should be -0-. I could be wrong about that but why would there be any voltage at all if the switch was open?

I'm not an electrician but I would replace the switch. Also, putting in an indicator (a light or a buzzer) that Ralph Johnstone talks about should be pretty easy while you are doing that.

Looking at your dates in your post#7, I'm guessing this is an intermittent problem with the pull ON switch. The ultimate SOB problem to locate. You may spend months before this repeats itself again OR you can take the easier road and replace the ON switch with a new one and hope that was the problem.

While you're thinking about that one, consider installing an indicator light to the terminal you used in your post #36 and then another wire to ground. Temporarily run the light to a location where it can easily be seen when out in the boat. Get an alarm and you've still got power going to your starter motor.

Update: I read the article on Catalina direct about the issues with the original 8 pin wire harness set up and the problems with the Ammeter which I have. It’s pretty clear this should have been PROACTIVELY replaced long ago. In light of the fact that I now have some kind of electrical issue, should I just go ahead and upgrade the control panel wiring with the kit form Catalina? Maybe I get lucky and it solves my mystery electrical issue.

This wouldn't necessarily solve the starter problem but it is a good thing to be aware of and have on your to do list.
The picture of your "trailer" connecter looks pretty good. Mine was obviously overheated and slightly melted so needed work. I didn't "replace" the harness but just replaced a few of the wires that were more critical and replaced the ammeter with a volt meter.

 

[BTC1984]

Update: what would happen if my alternator voltage regulator was defective? if yes and it was stuck “on” I assume it would keep the alternator producing electricity all the time. Since my alternator output wire runs through the post on the selnoid/starter it might explain all that heat on the selenoid/starter. Also my starter burned up right after I fully charged my batteries which I rarely do. All my issues seem to be proximal to fully powered batteries. Thoughts ?

 

[Davidasailor26]

Update: what would happen if my alternator voltage regulator was defective? if yes and it was stuck “on” I assume it would keep the alternator producing electricity all the time. Since my alternator output wire runs through the post on the selnoid/starter it might explain all that heat on the selenoid/starter. Also my starter burned up right after I fully charged my batteries which I rarely do. All my issues seem to be proximal to fully powered batteries. Thoughts ?

I think you’re barking up the wrong tree for that one. Typical internally regulated alternators remain on trying to generate voltage in the low 14V range whenever the engine is running. The alternator output is often connected to the battery side of the solenoid in order to get current back to the batteries, so the alternator output being on that post is no different than the batteries being connected there, from the solenoid’s perspective.

 

[heritage]

I agree with what David said. Instead of having two cables from the battery run into the engine compartment, one to the starter solenoid and one to the alternator, most manufactures will run one to the starter solenoid and then there is a short cable from the solenoid to the alternator. Saves money and it works. .

 

[BTC1984]

Update: I started this thread after replacing my starter and smelling something odd, like a burning. Turns out there was nothing burning after all. I was just overly sensitive to smells after having my starter burn up. Just to be sure I took an Infared thermometer gun and checked everything after running for an hour. Nothing is overheated, no hot wires etc. Also I replaced the original starter switch and the old one shows signs of being defective. Enough so that it’s very likely this is why my starter burned up. The closed position in the starter switch relies on a spring and that spring lost its power. See photos of the old switch. Thanks to everyone for all the help.