Standard-sized toilet / Catalina 320

Oct 26, 2008
5,011
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I measured the head compartment thoroughly and finally decided I could buy a standard-sized electric flush toilet to replace the marine-sized manual flush toilet. I purchased a Raritan SeaEra QC and brought it to the boat. It's obvious that the base won't fit the platform without some significant surgery. Sue is pissed and wants me to send it back. She's happy with the marine size, but I'm definitely not. Has anybody made a good modification? I woke up this morning convinced that I can cut out the back panel to make it work. I'd be happy to hear any experience others have had. Actually, I'm quite surprised that Catalina seemed to skimp in this area on this model.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,119
- - LIttle Rock
You DO know that the SeaEra's base can be oriented to either side, not just out the back? And occupies just about the same amount of spac as a manual toilet. See page 5 in the Installation, Operation & Maintenance Guide (aka "owners manual). Doesn't matter that that owners manual is for the sea water version, both versions are configured the same. You'll find that same drawing at the bottom of page 6 in the QC owners manual that should have been in the box with the toilet.

--Peggie
 
Oct 26, 2008
5,011
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
You DO know that the SeaEra's base can be oriented to either side, not just out the back? And occupies just about the same amount of spac as a manual toilet.

--Peggie
Yes, I have the base turned 90 degrees. The problem is that the base platform is narrow and the wall is right up against the back of the toilet. With the manual toilet, the hoses came in from the side. As far as I can tell, with the base rotated, the hoses must come in from behind. In order to push the toilet as far back as I want (even just enough to match the position of the original base), I need to cut a new hole for the fresh water line that comes into the back of the toilet. The discharge line will also need a large hole just to get to the base. There is plenty of room between the wall and the hull. I think I will need to make a large opening to make the hose runs and then close it up again. If you know the Catalina 32 layout, you will see that there is a lot of space above the toilet where there is a vanity counter and cabinet, it's just that the platform for the toilet is very limited.

Sorry, I don't have any adequate photos. I will try to make some. The layout diagram makes it look like there is plenty of space for the toilet, but believe me, there is not! :facepalm:
 
Jul 12, 2011
984
Catalina 36 1771 Ft Pierce, Florida
When I mounted my Raritan Marine Elegance (known on the boat as "the finest throne on the high seas") I found that the original platform was too small in the front, but that nothing important was under the one-inch gap -- no plumbing, bolts etc. would miss being supporting if that two inches just hung off. I just ignored it, and nothing seems to be wrong. How much gap do you have missing support? I suppose that you could mount a 1/2 inch slab of Starboard on the original mount and mount the head to that, if you were particular.
 
Oct 26, 2008
5,011
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
It's a little cramped, even with the marine size toilet. Sue is not happy because she thinks the standard is going to make it worse. I pretty much bought what I wanted & now I have to deal with it ... including trying to minimize the space that it requires.
IMG_1657.jpg


Until I cut a hole for the water feed, or a small notch to slide the rear part of the bowl (where the lid is fastened) back about an inch, the 2 front base bolts will be right on top of the front edge. That's with the base rotated to get close to a fit. Underneath that mirror is a vanity counter so there is plenty of space behind that wall under the counter.
 
Oct 26, 2008
5,011
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
You DO know that the SeaEra's base can be oriented to either side, not just out the back? And occupies just about the same amount of spac as a manual toilet. See page 5 in the Installation, Operation & Maintenance Guide (aka "owners manual). Doesn't matter that that owners manual is for the sea water version, both versions are configured the same. You'll find that same drawing at the bottom of page 6 in the QC owners manual that should have been in the box with the toilet.

--Peggie
I've always been a little confused by the statement that it can be rotated to either side. If you rotate it clockwise (looking down), the hoses have to be connected in the front, right under your feet. Obviously, you can't do that. It seems to me that the only option is to rotate it 90 degrees counterclockwise, which is what I am attempting to accomplish to make it fit. I would have more room if I could rotate it clockwise, but I'm not going to put the hoses in front. There is not even close to enough room to leave it straight back.

Also, the hose connections seem to be very awkward to deal with. Rotated the way I want it, the freshwater hose doesn't even come close to fitting at the length they provided. It seems that the freshwater hose only fits when the base is set straight back. I have to go back and study this because it seems to me that the hose connections are going to be very difficult to accommodate.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,123
Catalina 30 Mk II Barnegat, NJ
@Scott, I rotated the bowl on the base as in Fig 3 on Page 6, which I believe is what @Peggie Hall HeadMistress is referring to.
I did have to drill a hole and run the water hose into the back wall under the counter top. I don't remember if I used the 90 deg elbow to run the discharge hose to the left (of the head) thru the bulkhead to the holding tank or I used the straight fitting and bent the hose. ( I think I could use the straight hose fitting because the new angle of the based allowed for less bend). I don't remember where your holding tank is.
Running both hoses straight back into the cabinet base should not be a problem.
The supplied white fresh water did not reach the rear of the head in this configuration so I did have to run over to BSD to buy a longer hose.
Something that helped to make this all fit on the C30 was I angled the toilet away from the bulkhead a bit to match the angle of the cabinet base. Gave me more knee room.
Glad the lid and seat are the slow close type. I had to mount the toilet so close to the cabinet wall the lid doesn't angle back enough to always stay open. I use a left over strap from the shower curtain to wedge the lid and seat open.

If it will help, hop on board Sun Dog and take a look.
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,119
- - LIttle Rock
Looking at your photo, I see the problem, Scott...the bulkhead is angled only on one side...you're against a straight vertical wall on the other side. But it looks like Ward has the solution...it'll just be a lot more work than you wanted to do.

--Peggie
 

JRacer

.
Aug 9, 2011
1,239
Beneteau 310 Cheney KS (Wichita)
Appears the Kings Throne doesn't Trump the Queens Throne to me! Put the traditional way, When Mama aint happy...
 
Oct 26, 2008
5,011
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
@Scott
I did have to drill a hole and run the water hose into the back wall under the counter top. I don't remember if I used the 90 deg elbow to run the discharge hose to the left (of the head) thru the bulkhead to the holding tank or I used the straight fitting and bent the hose. ( I think I could use the straight hose fitting because the new angle of the based allowed for less bend). I don't remember where your holding tank is.
Running both hoses straight back into the cabinet base should not be a problem.
You know, why use the 1-1/2" discharge hose if its pumped thru a macerator? Why not use the 1" option? The tank is under the blue cushion on the left side so it is a very short run. I was thinking that I should use the 90 bend as shown in Fig. 8 just because bending the hose could be difficult. I also figured that the toilet would have to be fixed with the fitting inside the space behind the wall, therefore, I would need a cabinet door or a removable panel to reach inside and connect the hose. Now, I'm thinking the 1" hose might be the better option and I can connect the hose outside with the straight fitting and simply push it back into the space when I'm ready to fasten the toilet base.

I've also been thinking that a recessed door behind the toilet into that space can give me more room to push the toilet back and plenty of access to reach my hands inside there for whatever I need to do.

One thing is for sure ... I'm going to make it work and I'm not going back to that tiny toilet seat! :biggrin:
 
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Likes: Ward H
Dec 2, 1997
8,119
- - LIttle Rock
One thing is for sure ... I'm going to make it work and I'm not going back to that tiny toilet seat!
I have to ask this and I'm crossing my fingers that your answer won't be what I'm afraid it may be: you said "standard-sized electric flush toilet." Did you order the SeaEra with the standard "marine" bowl or the "household" bowl?

--Peggie
 
Oct 26, 2008
5,011
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
I have to ask this and I'm crossing my fingers that your answer won't be what I'm afraid it may be: you said "standard-sized electric flush toilet." Did you order the SeaEra with the standard "marine" bowl or the "household" bowl?

--Peggie
Household! That's what I consider standard ... as opposed to an elongated bowl that I had to talk Sue into when we were doing a house renovation. :biggrin:
 
Feb 14, 2014
5,704
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
It's a little cramped, even with the marine size toilet.
When I looked at your picture I think see box of Baking Soda.

If yes, that is the solution to longevity of metal hold tanks.

I use the same when people do Number 1.

Through Scientific Testing...:pimp:
1 - 2 tablespoon, coffee type scoop neutralizes the Uric Acid.:dancing:

Jim and Sue...
 
Oct 26, 2008
5,011
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
Could be baking soda or ginger snap cookies! Holding tank and water tanks are plastic. I think only metal tank is aluminum fuel tank, oh and the propane tank in the locker! That photo was taken when we were shopping the boat ... probably was baking soda!
 
  • Ha
Likes: JamesG161
Feb 14, 2014
5,704
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
ginger snap cookies!
Good for Mal de Mer too.:pimp:
_____
Baking soda will neutralize all Acids made in your Hold tanks, plus dampens the odor from the vents too.;)
It also protects internal metal levels sensors and metal macerator internals.

Number 2 will make Sulfur Acids, in a tank.
Jim...
 
Dec 2, 1997
8,119
- - LIttle Rock
@Peggie , any issues with using a 1" discharge line instead of 1-1/2"??
There MAY be one: the standard size inlet and discharge fittings on holding tanks is 1.5". So unless your current toilet has a 1.5" discharge--which is unlikely if it's a Jabsco--you'll need to install a reducing adapter to upsize a 1" toilet discharge to connect it to the tank. In fact, if your current discharge is 1" but your tank has the standard 1'5" inlet, I suspect there's an inline adapter in the discharge line now. And any inline fitting just complicates plumbing.

--Peggie
 
Oct 26, 2008
5,011
Catalina 320 Barnegat, NJ
@Peggie Hall HeadMistress the discharge fitting at the toilet was an elbow and it is a 1-1/2" fitting for the original 1.1/2" hose. The tank inlet is also 1-1/2". I'm thinking that I can simply insert a 1" I.D. hose into a short 1-1/2" at the tank flange, seal it and clamp it tight. The O.D of the 1" fits neatly inside the I.D. of the 1-1/2" and that also makes a smoother run into the tank. The tank flange also has a little more than 1" I.D. since the outer diameter is 1.5" to accept the hose. If the 1" butts up against the tank flange, that's a smoother entry into the tank , isn't it? Since the toilet has a macerator pump, I'm looking for an excuse to downsize the toilet discharge to 1".

Thinking a little more critically, clamping a 1" inside a 1.5" where there isn't a tank flange for stability is probably too sketchy. I think I'll just stay with the 1-1/2" hose. I already have all the 1.5" that I need, so I may as well use it. :facepalm:
 
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