Yes, one single line but without any termination (spliced to itself) so it's a closed loop therefore no excess line.
Simple Traveler Upgrade
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First of all..... you don't have to splice any lines together. You just use one line long enough to do the job. Each end of the line ties on to the appropriate place on the track or car. I don't see any great advantage to having one line in your application.... but you can try.... and if it's seems cumbersome... simply cut the line.
The pictures show a solution that would work for you without replacing the track.... you need to start perusing the parts catalogues from all the hardware manufacures to find the track mount and the block/cam cleat part. I'll help you buy making my own search if you have trouble. Otherwise, Garhaurer Marine may even be able to modify something similar that would match up to your track.... the end piece in pic 3 is what you're looking for... just need to adapt it to your size track.. BTW that whole unit from Garhaurer is $325... and is more than adequate for your boat. The curved track version of this unit has an articulated car... thus increasing the price by about $50.
In the pics I'm on my friend's IP31, an even heavier boat than yours(and, yes, the traveller track is slightly curved... just not as radically as I've seen on other boats)...Note the line terminates at the track end under the cleat... runs to a block on the car then back through the block and cleat at the track end... the excess is coiled and left by the track, there is a halyard winch nearby if needed. You can incease purchase by changing the cleat and car blocks to doubles.
All the existing equipment can be kept.... just remove the pins in the track car. This will be a fun upgrade and actually improve your sailing.
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Hi Joe,
Those pics are great, thank you. That's exactly what I was thinking in terms of hardware and I like the idea of the increased purchase. I'll start with Garhaurer and see what other hardware sources I can find locally. I think the existing track mount can stay (will retrofit) I just need the block/cam cleats on either ends. Alex K.
Those pics are great, thank you. That's exactly what I was thinking in terms of hardware and I like the idea of the increased purchase. I'll start with Garhaurer and see what other hardware sources I can find locally. I think the existing track mount can stay (will retrofit) I just need the block/cam cleats on either ends. Alex K.
Cool.... take a close up picture of your track and some measurments... so you can help them match up the base.... I think the part would be called a "traveller control block". You can most likely attach return blocks on the car where you currently have the thumb screws.
Anyhow they could very well have the control block in stock because they used to make alot of the hardware for Catalina factory. Now it's mixed sources, but a lot of us catalina owners are very loyal to Guido and the gang at Garhaurer so we use them as first option. Very good personal service. On my boat, I have a Garhaurer rigid vang, EZ glide jib lead, rope clutches, tackline and foreguy equipment.... etc... keep us posted.
If you have a dodger, Garhauer replaces the cam cleats on the end of the tracks to simple rollers, then you run the line back through a small round grommet in your dodger windshield to a fairlead and cam cleats on the aft edge of your coachroof. Much easier than putting a long slot in your windshield and having to lean forward to pop the traveler control lines.
Yeah..... see alex.... that's what experience will mean to you.... I can exactly see how much easier it would be that way. Thanks Stu.
Good to see you posting again Neil. Haven't heard from ya in a while.
I also have the curved traveller. It is a piece of junk, but I sail just fine with it anyway. I want to upgrade mine too, but so many things to pay for. I would like to at least drill a new slot hole for the pin on my port side traveller car, as it likes to come loose when under load. The whole car system is almost impossible to adjust while under heavy load, but it would be nice to at least get it to hold the traveller centered or to windward. One of these days I'll have to spring for the Garheur setup. Cheers, & pop another Brewskie for me.
No problem Joe. I wasn't advocating the curved traveler as the preferred arrangement but I couldn't let the comment it was non-functional pass either and offered a contrasting example (Sojourn). Stu graciously accepted the opinion and I appreciated it.
I have no problem with a straight traveler, I have no problem with a curved traveler, I have no problem with no traveler. Some do, I don't.
The first C30 mod I made was to upgrade the curved track traveler. I had Garhauer add a block to the end blocks so I ended up with 3 each. The first time I used the new system I knew it was a mistake and that I had wasted my money. I sold the traveler to C30 lister and replace it with a Garhauer straight track and I used the model that allowed me to retain the teak blocks -- it looks more nautical.
Here's the problem with the curved track, which some Catalina engineer engineered to look cosmetically pleasing but he problably never used one. Once the car starts down hill the effect of the mainsheet pulling on the car causes the car to lift on one end causing added friction plus the bearings on the older boats are shot in the first place and never were much good in the second place. The Garhauer straight track traveler, which pulls horizontally and has a million ball bearings, has none of these problems.
The traveler comes with two car choices -- a single shackle or a triple shackle. The triple shackle divided the load more evenly.
Here's the problem with the curved track, which some Catalina engineer engineered to look cosmetically pleasing but he problably never used one. Once the car starts down hill the effect of the mainsheet pulling on the car causes the car to lift on one end causing added friction plus the bearings on the older boats are shot in the first place and never were much good in the second place. The Garhauer straight track traveler, which pulls horizontally and has a million ball bearings, has none of these problems.
The traveler comes with two car choices -- a single shackle or a triple shackle. The triple shackle divided the load more evenly.
know what alex, it might be a good idea for posters to first give an idea of their intended buget since the posters on this site range all over the place in how much they are willing or able to spend on their boats. reading this site for a while it is clear that many newcomers buy fairly old boats with no idea how much work and expense such a boat can be. many of the answers to your post, or other posts, could be very different if the responders know the intended budget. for example, if i had bucks, my answer would be call mark or guido at garhauer and have them send you what they think you need.
also, though catalina built some awful nice boats, including mine, im not sure how hard frank and gerry thought them being thirty or forty years old.
mortyd is right, most newcomers have no idea how much money, time and effort has to be spent on an older boat. The yacht salesman or seller sure doesn't tell them. They end up finding out by themselves. With most newcomers, the boat is an emotional purchase. It looks pretty sitting there in the water all shined up and a large number have no idea what they're even looking at. Many never take a sea trial and even if they do, again they have no idea what they're experiencing. Many don't want to hear any negatives anyway. The engine starts and the sails go up and the boat moves through the water. What else is there? Later they find out, AS WE ALL HAVE. I'd like to have a buck for all the stuff I purposely overlooked because I really wanted this 1980 C30 with the teak & holly floor and the 25XP engine. It was the best one I'd seen of 10 that I looked at from Ventura to San Diego. I eventually plowed a ton of money into that sucker BUT she it gave my wife and I a lot of pleasure.
I asked a yacht salesman I knew in So Ca, why don't you show the buyer how to sail the thing and how the controls work -- or don't work. His answer was "are you kidding -- the guy would never buy the thing".
I asked a yacht salesman I knew in So Ca, why don't you show the buyer how to sail the thing and how the controls work -- or don't work. His answer was "are you kidding -- the guy would never buy the thing".
Not to take anything away from them, but I'm sure the crew would admit that anytime a 'cruising' boat (with its slow rating) can sail a race on a moderate reach the whole way it it outcorrect ANYTHING. If this had been all upwind, they would still be out there.Just to be contrary, have a close look at the traveler on this 1981 C-30 named Sojourn.
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Are you familiar with Sojourn? Here's a link:
http://www.ukhalsey.com/newsletter/june09/index_newport.asp
Seems their curved traveler worked pretty well . . .
ANYTHING? They won't outcorrect boats in their same class will they, many of which no doubt had flat travelers, maybe even a Garhauer or two.
I'm not moved by IF arguments but to stay on topic, given your IF exercise, wouldn't the flat traveler guys in the cruising class still be out there too?
[off topic again]
Isn't the point of handicapping to level the playing field? Are you suggesting the cruising classes have an unfair advantage in a downwind race? Even over ULDB's? If so, should the handicapping rules be changed?
Ahh, racers. Gotta love 'em.
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