During my research I came across many comments like this and NOT posted on SmartPlugs web site..
Ron Rogers / Panbo Site said:
Shore Power - SmartPlug vs. Circa 1938
- Thread starter Maine Sail
- Start date
On land in a wet industrial environment the use of twist lock plugs is a never ending disaster
It is still possible to have issues with the pin and sleeve units BUT the wire is now more likely to fail then the plug
It is still possible to have issues with the pin and sleeve units BUT the wire is now more likely to fail then the plug
Am I the only person who has both a twist-lock plug AND a threaded locking ring to hold the power cord plug to the boat? My inlet power plug has ZERO movement.
I just wonder if these electric problems are just operator error - someone neglecting to secure the plug with the threaded locking ring.
I just wonder if these electric problems are just operator error - someone neglecting to secure the plug with the threaded locking ring.
Not quite!Sounds like you just need a couple of 30A inlets and a couple of 30A retro fit plugs and the boat end is fixed...
I have that 12' cord that I use from my Honda to the inlets. I have my 2 battery chargers on separate 30 amp circuits so I use a Y cord to feed both sides of my system to power both chargers from the Honda.
So I'd need:
2 new inlets
3 new plugs
1 new Smartplug Y cord (do these even exist off the shelf?)
That's over $700!
I replaced all my inlets and plugs 3 years ago and so far have not seen one bit of burning, arcing etc. I keep the load well under 20 amps and use locking rings everywhere. And I am very careful to make sure all connections are good and tight. So far so good.
I still think code should be changed to reflect reality and require 20 amp breakers dockside.
I think most of us have these. I always secured mine, see the attached photo for what it looked like when I finally replaced it with a smart plug.
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That's What I Used to Have ........
After 14 years of UV, bird crap and other contaminants, the vinyl surface of the old cord is pretty bad as well so for an additional $140.00, it's time to get a SmartPlug cordset and inlet. This time I'll wipe down the cord every year with Meguiars vinyl and rubber protectant to see if the vinyl on the cord lasts a little longer. I know it's kept my rub rail like new.
.............. until the plastic threads on the ring finally wore smooth after a few hundred cycles of ON and OFF.
After 14 years of UV, bird crap and other contaminants, the vinyl surface of the old cord is pretty bad as well so for an additional $140.00, it's time to get a SmartPlug cordset and inlet. This time I'll wipe down the cord every year with Meguiars vinyl and rubber protectant to see if the vinyl on the cord lasts a little longer. I know it's kept my rub rail like new.
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I don't think we have to worry about the usual Honda 2000 generator found in pleasure boats exceeding 20A, the bloody thing is hard pressed to produce 15A. Don't let the 20A capacity receptacle fool you.
When I worked at a large marina, it wasn't unusual to have to replace pedestal receptacles. One boat owner complained when the pedestal receptacle to his boat burned up for the second time. The yard manager had told him he needed a new cord, and wouldn't let him hook up to the second new receptacle until he replaced his cord.
Last fall, my boat receptacle burned when I was running a small electric heater. I had heard about Smartplug and checked online for prices. They are indeed not much more money than the old substandard crap. My first project in the spring is to replace the boat receptacle and the cord. Thanks for the excellent article, Main Sail.
Last fall, my boat receptacle burned when I was running a small electric heater. I had heard about Smartplug and checked online for prices. They are indeed not much more money than the old substandard crap. My first project in the spring is to replace the boat receptacle and the cord. Thanks for the excellent article, Main Sail.
Electric heaters and AC's are two culprits that draw lots of current and can lead to these failures. Boat owners often forget they already have a 1200w to 1500W water heater on the shore cord and then add an electric heater, or two, or the AC in the summer..
A good AC install includes a second dedicated 30A service for the AC so as to limit over loading..
ALCON:
Dielectric grease is your friend. While I can't argue with MainSail's article that if you want the best protection that you should go with a "smart plug" I can say from experience that liberal use of dielectric grease on the prongs of your twist lock plug going into your boat can do wonders for decreasing problems with plugs burning up. I had a huge problem with this a bunch of years ago and after a long thread here I came to the discovery that if I used dielectric grease this would be less of a problem. I ended up replacing the entire receptacle with a new twist lock receptacle (wish this article would have come out earlier and I would have gone with the "smart plug"... but alas I didn't really know about it then) and covered the blades with dielectric grease and have had no more problems. Now mind you I had gone through two shore-power plugs in 2 years prior to making this change with the plugs "burning" up (charred but no fire... like the one Lee showed only wore) and since I made the change, absolutely no problem. So if you don't want to put the money in for a "smart plug" put a few bucks out for dielectric grease and you be doing something very helpful for improving your safety.
Take care,
-Levin
Dielectric grease is your friend. While I can't argue with MainSail's article that if you want the best protection that you should go with a "smart plug" I can say from experience that liberal use of dielectric grease on the prongs of your twist lock plug going into your boat can do wonders for decreasing problems with plugs burning up. I had a huge problem with this a bunch of years ago and after a long thread here I came to the discovery that if I used dielectric grease this would be less of a problem. I ended up replacing the entire receptacle with a new twist lock receptacle (wish this article would have come out earlier and I would have gone with the "smart plug"... but alas I didn't really know about it then) and covered the blades with dielectric grease and have had no more problems. Now mind you I had gone through two shore-power plugs in 2 years prior to making this change with the plugs "burning" up (charred but no fire... like the one Lee showed only wore) and since I made the change, absolutely no problem. So if you don't want to put the money in for a "smart plug" put a few bucks out for dielectric grease and you be doing something very helpful for improving your safety.
Take care,
-Levin
BTW... Below is a link to the thread I had a bunch of years ago on this topic...
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=104961&highlight=Levin+shore+power
Hope this helps.
Take care,
-Levin
http://forums.sbo.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=104961&highlight=Levin+shore+power
Hope this helps.
Take care,
-Levin
Don't know how I missed that one.. The real answer, with the old twist lock standard, is a max of about 20A on a 30A shore service. As the connections age drop that to 15A.....
If you live aboard, and have air conditioning, you really NEED a second 30A service or a full conversion to 50A......
Gee, thanks Main Sail, another project to add to the list! :bang:
Ha! Just kidding, great write up as always. I replaced the 30A outlet on Argyle a few years ago when I was doing the major refit, so at least it's relatively new. I keep her on a mooring mostly anchor when I cruise, so it will not be a top priority, but this is something I will definitely have on the to do list.
Thanks for doing all the work to put that together.
-Argyle
Ha! Just kidding, great write up as always. I replaced the 30A outlet on Argyle a few years ago when I was doing the major refit, so at least it's relatively new. I keep her on a mooring mostly anchor when I cruise, so it will not be a top priority, but this is something I will definitely have on the to do list.
Thanks for doing all the work to put that together.
-Argyle
Well, this is a bummer. Ordered the SmartPlug and it is on BACK ORDER and won't arrive until the second week of March.
Guess this thread overloaded the factory....nice going Mainsail
Guess this thread overloaded the factory....nice going Mainsail