I have heard that statistically, the majority of all the boats that sink, sink at the dock. I'm not sure if that's true.
Last edited:
Seacocks
- Thread starter kvalerio
- Start date
Close them all. Hunter should be able to provide you with a diagram and description of all OEM through hulls. Then if you have added something like a generator or A/C not in the original build, you go look for those thru-hulls. At some point you should inspect every corner of your boat and know where everything is located. Make your own diagrams and post them on a bulk head. I put my thru-hull diagram in the head because a captive audience will study obscure diagrams, repeatedly.
I think your photo would be enough to scare anyone into regularly closing their seacocks! So sorry about your setback. Glad to hear you finally have her back in shape. Thanks for sharing.
If you don't have a copy of the Owners Manual below is a copy from Hunter site. See Page 60A for thru-hull locations. You should know and understand what each one does so you can locate in an emergency without having to hunt around.
DO NOT CLOSE the shower sump ( page 57F). It drains above the waterline and should not be closed. See Page 57B onward for water system etc.
http://www.marlow-hunter.com/export/Owners-Manuals/386 Owner's Manual 2003.pdf
Once the Admiral believes sea-cocks are to be closed when not in use. You no longer have a choice!
Agreed. I was on the verge of buying a spinnaker halyard for our new-to-us Hunter but found a perfectly good one in the sail locker, shackle and all, months after buying the boat. It would have cost about $150 for a new one.
Why do people only worry about hose failures at the dock???
At sea the seacock is usually open so a split hose or improperly clamped fitting can sink your boat while possibly killing you in the process.
It is a too frequent story that someone doesn't notice the rising water until things are floating above the cabin sole. At that point it is often impossible to find the source of the leak as it is well underwater.
Both rubber and vinyl hoses degrade. The best Trident hose has only a five year warranty. I change all below waterline hoses every seven years, check the AWAB double hose clamps annually, and have gotten rid of all unribbed or questionable hose fittings.
OK. Back to seacock closing
At sea the seacock is usually open so a split hose or improperly clamped fitting can sink your boat while possibly killing you in the process.
It is a too frequent story that someone doesn't notice the rising water until things are floating above the cabin sole. At that point it is often impossible to find the source of the leak as it is well underwater.
Both rubber and vinyl hoses degrade. The best Trident hose has only a five year warranty. I change all below waterline hoses every seven years, check the AWAB double hose clamps annually, and have gotten rid of all unribbed or questionable hose fittings.
OK. Back to seacock closing
I agree with you. I don't sail with any open seacocks, period. Just the engine intake and exhaust. I close them at night, too.
Ben
Ben
I always close all my seacocks after every sail. It is almost muscle memory. The raw water intake is under a mattress. I close it anyway. The extra time is worth it. Most boats sink in their slip or mooring while unattended. I like the idea of hanging the starter key on the raw water seacock handle and will be doing that from now on. Great thread by the way.
i could see closing some at night. But we regularly use the galley and head sinks while sailing. And since overnight or even anchored in the heat of the day we might well run the genset, I personally would not find it advisable to leave that closed either.
Sorry to regenerate this thread but I have to ask seeing how I asked in a new thread how many close their seacocks-----how does one possible get their boat out when sunk at the slip---a huge crane? I wouldn't think the boat traveler could make it to most slips let alone get straps underneath it.
And BIG pumps to remove as much water--and the weight of it--from INSIDE the boat. Depending on the water's depth, divers may or may not be needed. It's expensive...but nowhere near as expensive as it can get if there's been any fuel or other petroleum leak because the owner is charged for the environmental cleanup.
Which is why you should never buy boat insurance that doesn't include coverage for environmental damage/cleanup...the boat doesn't have to sink to cause it.
I finally read the whole thread...and have a few comments:
It's really great to see newbies asking how to stay out of trouble instead of how to recover from it! There are no stupid questions, only those you need answered...and none of us were born knowing those answers, we all had to learn them...so keep on asking anything!
This needs a little correction:
5) The HEAD is the culprits since, body weight and "cough cough" wiggles tend to loosen the hoses. The top of the bowl is normally blow water line of boat. I replaced my Jabsco standard to their new head pump that has a "twist lock" to block the bowl water source at the head pump.
The head INTAKE is the source of water entering the bowl...the "twist lock" only blocks backflow from the DISCHARGE line, it does not close off the intake.Only the intake seacock can do that.
Relying on the wet/dry valve to keep water from flooding and overflowing the bowl is a good way to sink a boat, 'cuz people are fallible , and wet/dry valves do fail. And while it's just a backup "failsafe" that should never be relied on as a replacement for closing the seacock, all toilets at or below the water must have a vented loop (anti-siphon device) in the intake. Do NOT install it in the intake line between the thru-hull and the pump...it has to go between the pump and bowl, which requires replacing the short piece of hose the toilet mfr used to connect them with enough hose to put the loop at least 6-8" above waterline AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL...which on most sailboats puts it 2-3 FEET above the bowl. All toilet installation instructions include a drawing showing the correct way to do it. You can download the instructions for your toilet from the mfr's website. I can provide you with a link to all of 'em if you need one.
As for inaccessible seacocks, MOVE them to an accessible location or install a hatch to provide access.
And finally (for now anyway)...when confronted with a "should I...or "is it really necessary..." choice, always remember that you can never go wrong erring on the side of caution. It's also a good idea to read the instructions before all else fails!
It's really great to see newbies asking how to stay out of trouble instead of how to recover from it! There are no stupid questions, only those you need answered...and none of us were born knowing those answers, we all had to learn them...so keep on asking anything!
This needs a little correction:
5) The HEAD is the culprits since, body weight and "cough cough" wiggles tend to loosen the hoses. The top of the bowl is normally blow water line of boat. I replaced my Jabsco standard to their new head pump that has a "twist lock" to block the bowl water source at the head pump.
The head INTAKE is the source of water entering the bowl...the "twist lock" only blocks backflow from the DISCHARGE line, it does not close off the intake.Only the intake seacock can do that.
Relying on the wet/dry valve to keep water from flooding and overflowing the bowl is a good way to sink a boat, 'cuz people are fallible , and wet/dry valves do fail. And while it's just a backup "failsafe" that should never be relied on as a replacement for closing the seacock, all toilets at or below the water must have a vented loop (anti-siphon device) in the intake. Do NOT install it in the intake line between the thru-hull and the pump...it has to go between the pump and bowl, which requires replacing the short piece of hose the toilet mfr used to connect them with enough hose to put the loop at least 6-8" above waterline AT ANY ANGLE OF HEEL...which on most sailboats puts it 2-3 FEET above the bowl. All toilet installation instructions include a drawing showing the correct way to do it. You can download the instructions for your toilet from the mfr's website. I can provide you with a link to all of 'em if you need one.
As for inaccessible seacocks, MOVE them to an accessible location or install a hatch to provide access.
And finally (for now anyway)...when confronted with a "should I...or "is it really necessary..." choice, always remember that you can never go wrong erring on the side of caution. It's also a good idea to read the instructions before all else fails!
It only takes a few seconds to close a sea cock. I have seen 2 boats sink in the past year due to sea cocks being left open, and the owners not paying attention to hoses and connections.
I suggest the twist lock prevents siphons from both inlet and waste lines.
Why?
The motive forces for inlet sea water and exit waste is started by the pump and can continue if siphon breakers don't work. Locking the pump stops both siphons. The high point loops prevent back flow and so do good sea cocks.
Stopped flow stops siphons.
I didn't mean to imply that it was a secondary sea cock, but a back up of loose hoses letting flow continue and the down piston/pump position sets the flow control check valves correctly.
You are right that the primary purpose was to prevent a column of waste from pushing the piston upwards and exposing bowl to back flow.
I like it because once the flows stop, siphon break plugged or not, i statically secure my inflow line from continuing to fill bowl.
I DO CLOSE MY SEA COCKS WHEN NOT ON BOARD!
Jim...
I admit to not closing ALL the sea cocks when leaving the boat. I really should but....
I close the heads intakes and the engine raw water intake, and the shower sump drain. What I don't close all the time are the sink through hulls. The sinks are all well above waterline.
However, as many will quickly point out, there is always the chance of a hose failure to those sea cocks below the waterline. Plus, the longer a sea cock goes without being opened and closed, the stiffer it becomes, creating more stress on the sea cock when it is closed. Since my boat rarely gets hauled, those sea cocks rarely get lubricated. All those are reasons why I should close them as well.
Dave
I close the heads intakes and the engine raw water intake, and the shower sump drain. What I don't close all the time are the sink through hulls. The sinks are all well above waterline.
However, as many will quickly point out, there is always the chance of a hose failure to those sea cocks below the waterline. Plus, the longer a sea cock goes without being opened and closed, the stiffer it becomes, creating more stress on the sea cock when it is closed. Since my boat rarely gets hauled, those sea cocks rarely get lubricated. All those are reasons why I should close them as well.
Dave
In aviation, we have checklists to keep from forgetting something that is either expensive or very painful if missed. With over 6,000 hours in the airplane I currently fly, we still use every checklist, every single time.
I would think a "Before Leaving Dock" checklist would help with those nasty little details like fresh water intakes, etc.. I have a mental checklist for my ski boat and my sailboat. Of course, I have missed items! Maybe it's time to put it in written form.
Aviation has a mantra:
Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.
I would think a "Before Leaving Dock" checklist would help with those nasty little details like fresh water intakes, etc.. I have a mental checklist for my ski boat and my sailboat. Of course, I have missed items! Maybe it's time to put it in written form.
Aviation has a mantra:
Aviation in itself is not inherently dangerous. But to an even greater degree than the sea, it is terribly unforgiving of any carelessness, incapacity or neglect.
Back when I was a private pilot, I always used the laminated checklists before every flight. Of course I had them memorized, but it was drilled into me to use the checklist by my instructors and I just kept doing it without question.
I agree that a similar checklists for the boat would be great. Charter fleets provide them to their clients and if I get to the point where I trust my adult kids to take the boat out without me, I will want checklists for them.
I agree that a similar checklists for the boat would be great. Charter fleets provide them to their clients and if I get to the point where I trust my adult kids to take the boat out without me, I will want checklists for them.