Seacock Quality... Replace?—Currently on the hard.

[testingthewaters91]

Got excited and just started fabrication! I will sand them down later. G10 is really tough stuff. I love it!

 

[BigEasy]

Got excited and just started fabrication!

Some time ago I was researching using Groco adaptor plates & G10 backers on my boat. (The adaptor plates have the same foot print as the seacocks.). Some members suggested either tapping threads into the G10 or embedding nuts into the bottom surface of the G10 & screwing the adaptor plates or seacock down into the G10 plate to avoid having the threaded studs ( and nuts) protrude from the top of the plate. If the seacock or adaptor plates would ever have to be replaced, it would be very difficult or impossible to remove without cutting off the base of the seacock. The protruding studs would prevent rotation of the seacock to enable it to be disengaged from the thru hull fitting that is threaded into the seacock or adaptor plate.

 

[mermike]

Yes fiberglass (including G10) is ideal, but oak that’s been sealed with a coat of epoxy resin will last as long as the boat. No need for exotics.
G10 is an engineered form of fiberglass that has very high density and strength It is ideal for situations where resisting very high loads is a requirement (e.g. base for mounting an autopilot ram with forces over a thousand pounds ) or where you want to use a tap to screw bolts into it without backing (e.g. engine mounts). It’s overkill for a sea cock backing plate and expensive to buy if you don’t have a scrap piece available. It also will dull your woodworking tools pretty quickly.

I'll take your word for using oak. However, every time I walk through the Port Townsend boatyard, I'm reminded that wood is not a zero maintenance material with practically infinite life. It is less expensive and much easier to work than glass, most certainly. And it is true that G10 eats blades and laughs about it.

Since I didn't want to through-bolt the backing plates, I followed @Maine Sail 's lead and tapped threaded silicon bronze studs into them. G10 was the best option for this method. This was one project I never wanted to do again, so I made sure of it as best I could.

 

[testingthewaters91]

I'm not sure what you guys are talking about, tapping threads or whatever... The bolts already go on nice and tight, and I just recessed where the bolt is so it's flush with the hull. But here is what my vacuum plates are looking like now!

 

[BigEasy]

I'm not sure what you guys are talking about, tapping threads or whatever...

What we are talking about is provisions for removing the seacock in the future if the need arises. With the seacock thru bolted thru the backing plate, as shown, how would you remove the seacock? I am assuming that your backing plate will be epoxied or adhered (4200/5200) to the inside of the hull. If the head on the bolts is between the hull & backing plate, you can hopefully remove the attaching nuts, but the studs will still protrude thru the seacock base, making it impossible the break the seacock loose from the thru hull fitting & backing plate. @mermike tapped threads into the G10 backing plate and screwed studs into the plate, that has nuts tightened onto the studs. If he has to remove the seacock, he can remove the nuts and then unscrew the stud from the G10 plate, allowing for means of removing the seacock.