Hello all. It's time for me to do the job we all love of replacing my sanitation lines on my 450. I was curious if anyone has done this before and could give me an estimate on how much hose it takes or point me to a reference that could give me the info. The owners manual gives me the sizes but no lengths or even a good picture so I can measure myself. I get that it's never exact I'm just looking for a ballpark figure since this stuff ain't cheap. Thanks in advance.
Sanitation question
- Thread starter Steve760
- Start date
I don't know the answer but..Iif you end up needing to measure... go to the sewing section at walmart and get one of these type of tapes...
They are much more fogiving when measuring around curves and bends.
They are much more fogiving when measuring around curves and bends.
I did this recently. I just got in there and measured each hose. Quality sanitation hose is very expensive so I made sure I was accurate. One thing to note: Marine sizing is slightly different for fittings, etc. For example a 1 1/2" elbow for a marine application is slightly different than a 1 1/2" elbow you get at Home Depot. The Home depot version will be slightly larger. I was actually able to get the hose to go on the Home Depot version but it was quite a wrestling match. Good luck.
It's ok to spend the least amount possible for a lot of things on a boat, but sanitation hose isn't one of 'em if you only want to do this job ONCE. Raritan SaniFlex RaritanSaniFlex hose has proven to be 100% odor permeation resistant, has a 10 year warranty and has the added advantage of being so flexible that it can be bent almost as tight as a hairpin without kinking, which makes most jobs a whole lot easier. You'll have better luck negotiating price with a local independent retailer than you will at a chain.
--Peggie
--Peggie
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Actually it's only larger at the barbed end. NOminal sizes of thread-barb marine hose fittings are always stated as the OD (outer diameter) at both ends...but domestic thread-barb fittings use the OD for the threaded end and the ID (inner diameter) for the barb end...making the ODs for most nominal 1.5" x 1.5" domestic plumbing fittings ACTUALLY 1.5" thread x 1 5/8" barb. The ratios are the same for all sizes.
Heating or stretching a 1.5" hose enough to make it go onto a 1 5/8" barb is a bad idea because it can result in tears in the hose that may not show up immediately, but are almost certain to show up within a few months. So although marine fittings cost more, it's cheaper in the long run to buy them instead of domestic fittings. Prices can vary, so be sure to shop for the lowest price.
--Peggie
It is helpful to know the technique for cutting it. Step one use a sharp knife between the wire coils. Step two use wire cutters to snip the wire.
Also anyone starting a plumbing project should google flesh eating bacteria. It will give you religion.
Also anyone starting a plumbing project should google flesh eating bacteria. It will give you religion.
I've been trying to pull a *&^%$ sanitation hose up from beneath the aft berth up through the stern locker but it seems stuck. Could be that it's old, cold and inflexible like me, or tied up somewhere under the batteries. A good argument for getting something much more bendy to replace it with. I'm going to measure the old one before I order the new hose so there's no wasted expense.
This may not be the worst job on a boat -- but it's up there, and not just for the mess but also the "boat yoga" to get behind all those compartments. I paid for a professional to do this as it was worth it. I measured and supplied the hose, and bought an additional yard for safety sake (it's hard to duck tape that stuff together if you are too short!). I followed @rgranger 's advice and measured each run with a sewing tape measure. Getting to all the hose is what convinced me I did not want to DIY. BTW, do not forget all of the 'other' hoses connected to your waste tank such as macerator/sea dump, vent lines, pump-out connection etc.. @Peggie Hall HeadMistress told me that I do not need sanitation hose for the vent line.
I always used a serrated knife...it goes through the hose and the helix.
In going through some notes, I've just found something important that was left out of my book and shouldn't have been...I think you'll find it useful:
REPLACING HOSES
If this is your first time replacing hoses, or even if it's not, a couple of tips that should prevent it from being a nasty stinky job:
1. Before you begin, flush a LOT of clean fresh water through the entire system including the tank.
2. Start with the highest connections, duct tape the ends as you remove each one.
3. Warming the old hoses a bit (I always used a blow dryer) will make them easier to get off the fittings.
4. Put a plastic waste basket liner under each connection to catch any spills.
5. Warming the hose also makes it easier to get the new hose onto the fittings. Lubricate the inside of the hose and the outside of the fitting with a little K-Y...it's a water soluble surgical jelly that dries out and is also much slipperier than dishwashing liquid. Never use any grease or other lubricant that remains slippery.
6. And I'm sure you already know that all hose connections should be double clamped, with screws 180 degrees apart...or at least 90 degrees if access makes 180 impossible.
--Peggie
You forgot the clothespin for the nose 
I really want to see the Emoji movie some day soon. So close to this digital culture
I really want to see the Emoji movie some day soon. So close to this digital culture
Will that cut through the metal spiral? Wire cutters work but wow is it tough!
I have that exact tool.... it will cut sheet metal so I'm guessing it will make short work of wire.
Something to consider. I sail only on the Chesapeake Bay so I removed all the hoses, etc for dumping waste. Left a much simpler install and saved money. I needed to replace the inlet valve due to a broken handle, so I did both. Mistake to do the outlet since I later decided not to use it.
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