I have a 1998 Beneteau Oceanis 381 and just purchased it last September. I moved it with the help of experienced sailors from Rhode Island to Massachusetts, totaling about 20 hours of mostly motoring due to a lack of wind, and had no issues or concerns from my more experienced friends. The boat stayed in the water over the winter because it was intended to be a liveaboard (even though I didn't really stay in it for more than a week), but I kept the interior above 45°F. Outside, it reached 7°F one night, but the marina has bubblers, so the water never really froze. When it was warm enough to haul it out to get the bottom power-washed and a seacock valve replaced, the marina manager who moved it to the lift noticed right away that the steering was squeaking. It is very noticeable, and the floor vibrates a little. Yesterday I took a look at the quadrant/shaft and it is definitely it (I used the emergency tiler and the squeaking is still there, not the wire, chain, or pedestal). I will try to post a video I made and the survey page that talks about the steering/rudder. My question is: is this an imminent sign that something is really wrong and has to be fixed, or is it just a matter of adding some lube (I read to use pure silicone oil since the rudder is supposed to be water lubricated) or some other known thing that makes it squeak? There is no tension or play, and it turns freely (the autohelm works perfectly too). Another question is that, assuming that this is the original rudder/parts from 1998, could it have reached its end of life (bearing/sleeve/moving parts)? I am trying to get someone who actually can diagnose it to come see it, but I haven't had luck finding them. Would appreciate suggestions around Boston MA area. Thanks a lot!
Not sure about the 381 bit our son had a 445 for a while which used delrin bearings on the shaft (upper and lower) which were worn and when replaced, the squeaking stopped.
Not sure what happens when one/both fail completely - shaft damage?
Not sure what happens when one/both fail completely - shaft damage?
It's going to be tough to get someone to come and look at your boat and it likely won't be cheap. Your rudder and parts should not be at the end of life with normal use. The rudder shaft is held in place by bearings, usually two - most likely that is the source of the squeaking. Hopefully you have a manual, it should tell you how to lube the bearings, often it's done with a grease gun.
Thanks for the replies so far. Here are some pictures from the survey. Hopefully, they will help. I'll post a link to the video soon.
Attachments
Does the shaft wobble side to side?
Not sure how useful the survey recommendation is to “replace a rusted clamp”. That’s ’village idiot’ stuff and has no ‘bearing’ on the shaft bearing condition.
It appears to be easy to remove the collar so you can see the top bearing even if the boat is in.
Not sure how useful the survey recommendation is to “replace a rusted clamp”. That’s ’village idiot’ stuff and has no ‘bearing’ on the shaft bearing condition.
It appears to be easy to remove the collar so you can see the top bearing even if the boat is in.
It does not wobble, there is no play. I was going to replace the clamp, but ran out of time. Will do it this week and try to take some pictures. Thanks!
Different company, so likely dissimilar methods of design for the tube/post, but on our boat there are several "zerk" fittings on the rudder tube, accessible from inside the lazaret. I use the word "accessible" advisedly... 
Often it's the second or third owner that notices the steering effort increasing and crawls back there and refills the inside of the tube up with grease. Usually the effort to turn the wheel goes way down. Sometimes a "frozen" Zerk must be replaced. Bit of a project, that, depending on model of boat.
Good luck!
Often it's the second or third owner that notices the steering effort increasing and crawls back there and refills the inside of the tube up with grease. Usually the effort to turn the wheel goes way down. Sometimes a "frozen" Zerk must be replaced. Bit of a project, that, depending on model of boat.
Good luck!
Update: I bought Silicone Oil from Super Lube and added it to the upper and lower bearings...The squeak is gone! There is some noise coming from the pulleys, so I ordered T9 for that. I'll inspect it more carefully soon, but at least my major worries are gone (for now). Thanks!Different company, so likely dissimilar methods of design for the tube/post, but on our boat there are several "zerk" fittings on the rudder tube, accessible from inside the lazaret. I use the word "accessible" advisedly...
Often it's the second or third owner that notices the steering effort increasing and crawls back there and refills the inside of the tube up with grease. Usually the effort to turn the wheel goes way down. Sometimes a "frozen" Zerk must be replaced. Bit of a project, that, depending on model of boat.
Good luck!
That’s a good sign that it isn’t binding. If the bearings are plastic (e.g. nylon/delrin/HDPE) they may have absorbed some water which causes expansion, making them tight.
PS - I agree with @dLj about the hose clamp - Your surveyor was just stating the obvious for an inconsequential cosmetic issue. That cloth was apparently trapping moisture beneath the stainless in an anaerobic state, which would cause any stainless to rust. It’s just a cover.
The squeak may come back, and I would recommend a spray dry lube (rather than silicone) so it doesn’t trap dirt. Dirt will accelerate wear. Be cautious with silicone around boats - it causes big problems with secondary bonds if you ever need to do fiberglass repair or repaint (and it gets deep into the material so it can’t be fully removed with solvents).
While I'd love to take credit for that, but it was @Don S/V ILLusion to whom that comment should be credited...
dj
I was wondering about the drain fitting installed on the side of the rudder? Is that a common thing? I realize water in rudders is a relatively frequent problem and not always easily fixed. I see boats in our boatyard with small drilled holes in the bottom of the rudder to drain them when hauled out for the winter. Just wondering about that drain fitting( I realize it has nothing to do with the squeaking), does it drain a wet rudder faster and better?
I was told by multiple people to take a look at it when I get the boat out of the water. From what I read, water in the rudder will make the metallic frame (and possibly the foam/filling) rust/rot with time. The fitting just slows down this process, but doesn't fix it. I've found some videos of people restoring their rudders, but this is a big project that takes some experience with it (I wouldn't do it myself, to be honest). I'll probably take my boat out of the water by October and will get someone with experience to inspect it. The last thing we want is for the rudder to disintegrate while we're out.