Removing Shaft from flange on Universal M-25

[RitSim]

I had to remove my coupling and also had difficulty. Heated the coupling under tension from a puller. Heated the coupling to 300-350 degrees F. This is well below any temperature that is going to change material properties. Tensioned the puller (or use a socket as suggested), heated, and gave a good rap with a 3# hammer using an aluminum block on the rear of the coupling so as to not damage the coupling. Second try and it popped off.

If you do have to cut the coupling, I would consider cutting in-line with the shaft (carefully and do not go into the shaft). Probably don't even need to cut down to the shaft - just almost. Use a cold chisel with the back side of the shaft supported on a metal block. You should be able to save the shaft this way

 

[Tally Ho]

If I don't get any movement after the first few terns on the bolts, then I'll add more penetrating oil and save it for another day.

Patience is the key young grasshopper ;-)

Good luck.

Greg

 

[eherlihy]

I believe that I was the target of the stop collar suggestion. These are used as a backup to the stainless steel set screws that hold the rotor in position along the shaft when using a PSS Shaft seal. My boat has one, but it is not visible in the picture because of the raw water intake hose.

Also, there is no need for any new through hull when installing a PSS. The black hose in my picture is the vent hose. This hose allows air which will become trapped in the shaft log when the boat is hauled, out of the PSS seal when the boat is splashed. Water lubricates the graphite bearing that should be pressed against the bearing. The end of the hose is left open and it simply goes above the waterline of the boat. Higher is better. I ran mine into the lazerette and ended it just below the lid. I have never seen a drop of water come out from it.

Happy New Year.

 

[rajhnsn]

Well I was able to separate the shaft flange from the rubber spacer and the rubber spacer from the gearbox flange but ran out of time and the right tools to take the flange off the shaft. Taking the flange off of the shaft will be the next step.

I am considering changing to a PSS. Does anyone have a suggestion for the right one to purchase?

 

[Charles Erwin]

PYI has the PSS seals. They are in Lynwood Wa. They make a version that is not graphite so as to accommodate galvanic concerns but the smallest size is too large for your shaft diameter probably. They were closed last week but I think they open Monday so you can call to discuss your project. If you do this order extra set screws. These are a one time deal and the hex heads wear quickly too.

Tip. If the screw socket gets rounded then use a lefthand twist drill to remove the old screw.

PYI Inc. | PSS Type A Shaft Seal

Charles

 

[eherlihy]

I am considering changing to a PSS. Does anyone have a suggestion for the right one to purchase?

PSS Shaft Seal - 1" shaft x 1.75" shaft log (02-100-134) - $295 from Amazon

The Service kit p/n is 07-100-134R

 

[rajhnsn]

Well after the first try, I did not succeed. We attempted to press it off using a socket and the transmission flange. After heating and tightening, it showed no signs of movement so we stopped. I was concerned that the transmission flange would break. I purchased the flange puller designed for this flange but there is not enough room between the flanges for the screw to fit between them.

Next attempt I will use the flange puller plate with a socket. If this doesn't work, I may have to cut it off. In for a penny; in for a pound.

 

[RitSim]

After tightening the puller to maximum, and heating to 350-400 deg F, give a sharp rap to the rear of the flange with a 3# hammer using an aluminum block so as to not dent the flange. Worked for me.

 

[njlarry]

Given the age of our boats, it is likely flange will not easily part from the shaft. I will likely end up in the same situation myself. I am a great beliver in what RC posts on his marine compass how to site. Never a hammer driver. My plan is to cut the shaft, remove the cutless bearing which should give clearance past the rudder. The new shaft and new split coupler will be fit by the shaft machine shop.
PSS is another issue. The newer snythetic packings with convenetional packing glands are very appealing to me. Yes catastropic pss failures are rare but I have no desire to replace every 7 years just cause the manufacturer eiither has no condfidance or is covering his backside. There is no way to replace the pss without removing shaft and coupler. What is a drip or two compared to all the rainwater in the bildge from the mast. Imho
If you need a hand, pm me. Have angle grinder, sledge hammer and colorful vocab.

 

[TimFromLI]

Not sure where I read it (or saw it) but one guy did the puller flange socket thing, sprayed penetrating oil, tightened it up and left it for a week or so. When he came back it had popped a little bit and was easier to extract.
I bought my boat 4 years ago and I have no idea when my PSS was last serviced. This is on the top of my list for this winter. I understand how to get the coupler off but how do you get it back on? Also, should I have the coupling inspected by a shop to make sure I didn't distort it with all that potentially uneven torque? Or buy a new coupling?

 

[RoyS]

Hard to believe after you have fought to remove the coupling but the coupling is a slip fit to the shaft. It will slide on and be held in place by the set screws until it corrodes and fuses once again to the shaft. Some will argue that you need to have a machine shop face the shaft/coupling assembly but I have never done that to my own boats. The older style bellows on the PSS device lasted longer (in my experience) than the manufacturer had suggested for its life. The newer style ones are more tightly compressed and some have displayed alligatored surfaces prematurely. I attempted to get to the bottom of that issue with the manufacturer but they failed to respond to my inquiries.

 

[eherlihy]

When I first started down this road in 2012, my boat had the old bronze propeller shaft, and it was frozen to the coupling. I cut the shaft off the old coupling with a sawzall. I replaced the shaft with an Aqualoy shaft, and a NON-split coupling (pictured in post 11) which were fit and faced together.

Now that I have the PSS shaft seal, because the engine room is dry and corrosion is minimal, I was able to easily remove and replace the coupling (heat was applied and a socket used to press the coupling off) after 7 years to replace the PSS bellows (ALWAYS use new set screws).

 

[dmax]

The older style bellows on the PSS device lasted longer (in my experience) than the manufacturer had suggested for its life. The newer style ones are more tightly compressed and some have displayed alligatored surfaces prematurely. I attempted to get to the bottom of that issue with the manufacturer but they failed to respond to my inquiries.

Roy, there was a thread on this in the last 6 months or so (for some reason the forum search doesn't work for me) - apparently there was a bad batch of bellows that went out approximately 5 years ago that "aligatored" within a year or two. I bought my PSS 3 years ago and the bellows are still in exellent shape.

 

[twodzusfittings]

A few years back I had to replace my entire stuffing box, first because it was old, second because the surveyor noted it on the inspections and the insurance company needed a million and one (maybe twelve) items corrected, third because I was on rent free hard and it was the best time to do it. I applied all kinds of penetrating liquids, heat, mechanical torque, nothing, absolutely nothing was going to move. I had the prop off already, all I needed was to separate the flange from the shaft.
As my friend and mentor always says, "think it through". I did. This was not going to beat me, come hell or high water!!!
So......
I removed the motor, pulled the shaft through, installed the new stuffing box and gland, put the motor back in after giving it a good cleaning and a coat of paint, lining up the shaft and flange to the transmission.....and Bob's your Uncle!

 

[rajhnsn]

Well I am happy to report success in removing the flange. The input received from everyone made this possible. Especially the post about patience. It took 4 tries but it finally gave way. I've decided not to change to a PSS but I am going to change to a split flange in case I want to do so in the future. Next step is to remove the hose from the horn, recondition the nipple and replace the stuffing. Then attempt to put it back together.

 

[kappykaplan]

Well I am happy to report success in removing the flange.

Congratulations!

 

[jviss]

Well I am happy to report success in removing the flange. The input received from everyone made this possible. Especially the post about patience. It took 4 tries but it finally gave way. I've decided not to change to a PSS but I am going to change to a split flange in case I want to do so in the future. Next step is to remove the hose from the horn, recondition the nipple and replace the stuffing. Then attempt to put it back together.

Thanks for following up!

 

[rajhnsn]

Here is a link to a few photos of the project. Not quite as clean and painted as other bilges that have responded to this post but first things first.

Shaft Flange Coupler Removal

7 new items added to shared album

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Tally Ho]

Looking good. Nice work getting the old coupling off. How did the shaft look?

I like the split coupling.

Greg

 

[jviss]

Nice job! Thanks for sharing the pics.

Not quite as clean and painted as other bilges

I get it! My boat was made in 1996, but there's still debris from its building in the bilge, in the hull, higher up. It needs a good vacuuming, and then I think I'll pressure wash a lot of it. My bilge is all gel-coated white, so it should clean up well.