Purchased my 2005 323 Oceanis in spring 2024 and going through the list of repairs and maintenance. Bilge has been changed by PO.

[TheZ3]

#1 on my list is to figure out the bilge. Boat has a self contained ned pump with float in the bilge. As research has enlightened me, the original factory set up was a float switch in the shallow bilge with the pump mounted behind the starboard settee near the fresh water pump. Why would someone bypass the factory set-up?
The set up does the job of draining the bilge on the rare occasion water is captured. The challenge I have identified is that the fresh water pump and the bilge activate when the freshwater switch is turned on. The switch panel bilge is in the off position.
#2 the shower drain does not work and appears to run from the shower pan to the starboard m mounted bilge pump. The drain is either plugged, not connected to the factory bilge pump or just disconnected.
#3 the dripless stuffing box seal is almost impossible to lube when pinched due to water running inboard. Thru hulls are closed...I didn't think the cutlass bearing would be watertight so the lube process, unless on the hard, seems crazy. This is the only place where I have water intrusion. Jury rig solution is a hose clamp on the nose of the dripless...back off 1/2 to 3/4 turn when motoring and tighten when docked. A bit of a hassle to avoid water intrusion. New drip[less purchased and will be replaced eventually.
#4 There are four batteries, one next to the transmission and prop shaft, two under the floor near the aft cabin. entry with switches, and one under the companionway stairs. Initial testing of the switches does not appear to remove any of the batteries. Plan is to be able to switch off the engine battery and allow the other three to run instruments, refrigerator, lights, windlass, everything but the engine.
#5 pump for refrigerator under galley sink seems inoperable...not sure why is doesn't drain into the bilge. Momentary switch does nothing. I did notice several crimp connectors behind the switch panel (wonderful).
#6 Fuel gauge is inoperable. Lowest priority at the moment, I prefer to sail once we leave the marina.
#7 researching replacement of instruments...everything is 20+ years old and either not working or the screens are so badly checked they are not visible. Suggestions for an inland use boat?
A new Jabsco pump installed in the head so the top priority for the wife has been addressed.

 

[Tally Ho]

It is a 20 year old boat, so things have certainly broken and been “repaired” by a Previous Owner (PO).

I have a 38 year old boat, so I am surprised when I find ”original” stuff on my boat

1) as long as the float turns on, and the bilge pump removes water in the bilge, I wouldn’t worry about the change.
2) not uncommon for drain lines to get plugged with hair, etc. start with that and see if you can clean it out.
3) The Volvo dripless seal is a nicely designed seal. I installed one on my boat a few years ago. They do need to be replaced though. If you don’t know how old it is, plan on a replacement as soon as you can. Make sure you can get the shaft out of the coupling…then haul out and replace. I use a drinking straw, squeeze some grease in the end, then pinch it and stick it under the lip of the seal. You will get a little water, but it shouldn’t be too bad.
4) Beneteau used a series of battery switches (unlike US boats with a 1-2-both-off switch). Good idea to get a digital volt meter and start testing, tracing,etc. I would guess that the battery by the transmission is the engine start battery. But how to isolate it, I don’t have experience with Beneteaus.
5). No help on this.
6) A DVM may help determine if the issue is the sender or the gauge. Key has to be on typically to turn on the gauge.
7) Lots of options. There is a post active now that talks about instruments… Electronics….. so many options
I am on Lake Michigan, and mostly day sail. My critical instruments include:
- Raymarine auto-pilot
- Garmin 746s Chart plotter
- Raymarine wireless wind instrument (anemometer and display)
- B&G V50 VHS with AIS and H50 handset for the helm

Most of the units are connected by N2K backbone. Auto pilot gets wind info from the wind instrument, CP gets AIS targets from radio and wind info from the wind instrument, radio gets GPS location data from the Chart plotter. It all works together pretty well.
And just for fun, I have a Raspberry Pi running OpenCPN and connected to the N2K backbone to display ship systems below deck at the Nav station.

Working head is important! But how about the fridge? Cold beer is a necessity


Good luck, she sounds like. Nice boat. I am partial to the Beneteau 373, but a 32 footer is a good size.

Greg

 

[Davidasailor26]

#1 on my list is to figure out the bilge. Boat has a self contained ned pump with float in the bilge. As research has enlightened me, the original factory set up was a float switch in the shallow bilge with the pump mounted behind the starboard settee near the fresh water pump. Why would someone bypass the factory set-up?
The set up does the job of draining the bilge on the rare occasion water is captured. The challenge I have identified is that the fresh water pump and the bilge activate when the freshwater switch is turned on. The switch panel bilge is in the off position.

My guess is the original pump died and the previous owner just replaced it with whatever. Our 2014 came with an electronic sensor in the bilge and a remote pump under the settee. We like that setup - the sensor is reliable and the pump gets all but the last cup of water out of the sump.

Our is wired a bit deceptively too - the panel has a bilge pump switch with positions for auto and manual. The manual position is wired as you’d expect, but the auto position doesn’t go anywhere. The pump sensor is wired direct to the battery (with an inline fuse), so it’s always in auto mode regardless of the switch.

#3 the dripless stuffing box seal is almost impossible to lube when pinched due to water running inboard. Thru hulls are closed...I didn't think the cutlass bearing would be watertight so the lube process, unless on the hard, seems crazy. This is the only place where I have water intrusion. Jury rig solution is a hose clamp on the nose of the dripless...back off 1/2 to 3/4 turn when motoring and tighten when docked. A bit of a hassle to avoid water intrusion. New dripless purchased and will be replaced eventually.

Assuming you have the traditional Beneteau Volvo dripless seal (a nice simple design) it doesn’t take much grease. You don’t want to pack so much grease into it that water can’t get to the seal to keep it cool. I put a pea sized amount into a plastic straw once a year. I flatten the end of the straw, pinch the seal, put the flat end into the little slot that opens, and squeeze the grease in. If I’m doing that in the water a little water does come in, but not so much that it’s a problem. Water should stop flowing when you stop pinching the seal. If it doesn’t the seal is worn (or worse, the shaft could be scored or pitted).

#4 There are four batteries, one next to the transmission and prop shaft, two under the floor near the aft cabin. entry with switches, and one under the companionway stairs. Initial testing of the switches does not appear to remove any of the batteries. Plan is to be able to switch off the engine battery and allow the other three to run instruments, refrigerator, lights, windlass, everything but the engine.

Beneteau has done varied things with the battery switches over the years, and some previous owners have changed things around. Check the archives here for some of the possibilities there. In any case it’s probably best to trace your wires to see what goes where, then consider how you might want to change them to suit your needs.

#5 pump for refrigerator under galley sink seems inoperable...not sure why is doesn't drain into the bilge. Momentary switch does nothing. I did notice several crimp connectors behind the switch panel (wonderful).

Having a fridge or icebox drain to the bilge is ok, but only until a jar of milk, pack of meat, or anything else from food leaks and adds nutrients to the primordial soup that is a bilge. It’s better to have an overboard drain for that reason.

#6 Fuel gauge is inoperable. Lowest priority at the moment, I prefer to sail once we leave the marina.

I haven’t looked at my fuel gauge in probably 8 years. I watch engine hours and know we burn about .7 gallons per hour. When I get fuel I estimate how much I’ll need and listen to the vent a couple gallons before I figure it’ll be full. Not saying there’s no value in having a gauge but for me it’d be a very low priority.

#7 researching replacement of instruments...everything is 20+ years old and either not working or the screens are so badly checked they are not visible. Suggestions for an inland use boat?

There was a thread in the last few days related to this - Electronics….. so many options. Most of the advice there will apply to you too.

 

[TheZ3]

It is a 20 year old boat, so things have certainly broken and been “repaired” by a Previous Owner (PO).

I have a 38 year old boat, so I am surprised when I find ”original” stuff on my boat

1) as long as the float turns on, and the bilge pump removes water in the bilge, I wouldn’t worry about the change.
2) not uncommon for drain lines to get plugged with hair, etc. start with that and see if you can clean it out.
3) The Volvo dripless seal is a nicely designed seal. I installed one on my boat a few years ago. They do need to be replaced though. If you don’t know how old it is, plan on a replacement as soon as you can. Make sure you can get the shaft out of the coupling…then haul out and replace. I use a drinking straw, squeeze some grease in the end, then pinch it and stick it under the lip of the seal. You will get a little water, but it shouldn’t be too bad.
4) Beneteau used a series of battery switches (unlike US boats with a 1-2-both-off switch). Good idea to get a digital volt meter and start testing, tracing,etc. I would guess that the battery by the transmission is the engine start battery. But how to isolate it, I don’t have experience with Beneteaus.
5). No help on this.
6) A DVM may help determine if the issue is the sender or the gauge. Key has to be on typically to turn on the gauge.
7) Lots of options. There is a post active now that talks about instruments… Electronics….. so many options
I am on Lake Michigan, and mostly day sail. My critical instruments include:
- Raymarine auto-pilot
- Garmin 746s Chart plotter
- Raymarine wireless wind instrument (anemometer and display)
- B&G V50 VHS with AIS and H50 handset for the helm

Most of the units are connected by N2K backbone. Auto pilot gets wind info from the wind instrument, CP gets AIS targets from radio and wind info from the wind instrument, radio gets GPS location data from the Chart plotter. It all works together pretty well.
And just for fun, I have a Raspberry Pi running OpenCPN and connected to the N2K backbone to display ship systems below deck at the Nav station.

Working head is important! But how about the fridge? Cold beer is a necessity


Good luck, she sounds like. Nice boat. I am partial to the Beneteau 373, but a 32 footer is a good size.

Greg

Appreciate the feedback. I like the 0.7 gallons consumption rule, very helpful.
I'll dig back into the boat upon my return.

 

[TheZ3]

It is a 20 year old boat, so things have certainly broken and been “repaired” by a Previous Owner (PO).

I have a 38 year old boat, so I am surprised when I find ”original” stuff on my boat

1) as long as the float turns on, and the bilge pump removes water in the bilge, I wouldn’t worry about the change.
2) not uncommon for drain lines to get plugged with hair, etc. start with that and see if you can clean it out.
3) The Volvo dripless seal is a nicely designed seal. I installed one on my boat a few years ago. They do need to be replaced though. If you don’t know how old it is, plan on a replacement as soon as you can. Make sure you can get the shaft out of the coupling…then haul out and replace. I use a drinking straw, squeeze some grease in the end, then pinch it and stick it under the lip of the seal. You will get a little water, but it shouldn’t be too bad.
4) Beneteau used a series of battery switches (unlike US boats with a 1-2-both-off switch). Good idea to get a digital volt meter and start testing, tracing,etc. I would guess that the battery by the transmission is the engine start battery. But how to isolate it, I don’t have experience with Beneteaus.
5). No help on this.
6) A DVM may help determine if the issue is the sender or the gauge. Key has to be on typically to turn on the gauge.
7) Lots of options. There is a post active now that talks about instruments… Electronics….. so many options
I am on Lake Michigan, and mostly day sail. My critical instruments include:
- Raymarine auto-pilot
- Garmin 746s Chart plotter
- Raymarine wireless wind instrument (anemometer and display)
- B&G V50 VHS with AIS and H50 handset for the helm

Most of the units are connected by N2K backbone. Auto pilot gets wind info from the wind instrument, CP gets AIS targets from radio and wind info from the wind instrument, radio gets GPS location data from the Chart plotter. It all works together pretty well.
And just for fun, I have a Raspberry Pi running OpenCPN and connected to the N2K backbone to display ship systems below deck at the Nav station.

Working head is important! But how about the fridge? Cold beer is a necessity


Good luck, she sounds like. Nice boat. I am partial to the Beneteau 373, but a 32 footer is a good size.

Greg

I appreciate the quick feedback, this is a learning experience for me. The wife and I are visiting the Upper Peninsula of Michigan for a long weekend (flying) we should hopefully have time to hand out at a marina. From what I'm hearing the Volvo seal has exceeded its expected life. I'll need to see if I can get the coupling freed from the engine and off the shaft. My concern is that the shaft may be pitted. I'll dig into the boat when I return.

 

[BigEasy]

From what I'm hearing the Volvo seal has exceeded its expected life.

Yes it's definitely time to replace it. Also time to replace the cooling water nipple that is attached to the stern tube. I replaced my Volvo seal last year; if I had to do it again, I would use a Radice seal (just like the Volvo except it incorporates a cooling water nipple in the shaft seal). Then glass over the shaft log where the old nipple attaches. You should research “Beneteau cooling water nipple" to learn about the inherent problems. I used a Buck Algonquin plate type puller to remove the shaft coupling; worked well ( I didn’t want to risk bending the output flange on the transmission).
Congratulations on the purchase of your new boat & welcome to the forum.

 

[jssailem]

In any case it’s probably best to trace your wires to see what goes where,

On a 20-year-old boat, I would recommend, it is ALWAYS best to trace your wires to see what goes where.

Many previous owners make changes to their boats. Sometimes, these changes are good. You will not know that unless you inspect the wiring yourself. You may discover that wires have reached the end of their life and need to be replaced.

 

[arf145]

Regarding the fridge drain. On my 2000 previous generation Beneteau, the shower drain and the fridge drain shared a pump whose output went out the stbd side of the boat. A switchable valve let you choose which one the pump was pulling from. As others have noted, be glad a fridge or shower doesn't empty into the bilge! Especially with the extensive and labyrinthine bilge of the Bene.

 

[BigEasy]

#1 on my list is to figure out the bilge. Boat has a self contained ned pump with float in the bilge. As research has enlightened me, the original factory set up was a float switch in the shallow bilge with the pump mounted behind the starboard settee near the fresh water pump. Why would someone bypass the factory set-up?
#2 the shower drain does not work and appears to run from the shower pan to the starboard m mounted bilge pump. The drain is either plugged, not connected to the factory bilge pump or just disconnected.
#3 the dripless stuffing box seal is almost impossible to lube when pinched due to water running inboard. Thru hulls are closed...I didn't think the cutlass bearing would be watertight so the lube process, unless on the hard, seems crazy. This is the only place where I have water intrusion. Jury rig solution is a hose clamp on the nose of the dripless...back off 1/2 to 3/4 turn when motoring and tighten when docked. A bit of a hassle to avoid water intrusion. New drip[less purchased and will be replaced eventually.
#4 There are four batteries, one next to the transmission and prop shaft, two under the floor near the aft cabin. entry with switches, and one under the companionway stairs. Initial testing of the switches does not appear to remove any of the batteries.
#6 Fuel gauge is inoperable. Lowest priority at the moment, I prefer to sail once we leave the marina.
#7 researching replacement of instruments...everything is 20+ years old and either not working or the screens are so badly checked

#1. PO’s do all sorts of things to modify & “improve” OEM installations. Check your
Owner’s manual plumbing schematic for factory configuration.
#2. Check that you have power to the pump & ensure it operates. Might be clogged
Or Diaphragm may need replacement. I replaced diaphragms on the bilge
Pump & shower pump (Defender).
#3. No need to pinch Volvo seal. Fill a drinking straw with Volvo grease & insert
flattened straw end between seal & shaft, approximately one inch & extrude
Grease. Should be minimal to no water ingress. Probably not a good idea to
use a hose clamp on nose of drip less. Damage to lips inside seal is likely.
You should replace Volvo seal if over ten years old; consider using Radice seal
Instead of Volvo seal. Remove & inspect/replace 1/8” nipple for seal cooling
water while hauled it. Note that Radice seal incorporates a nipple within the
seal & has a port to lubricate seal.
#4. Battery under companionway step is start battery. See owner’s manual for
Electrical schematics. Beware that PO may have modified. The remaining
Three batteries are likely your house bank.
#6. Check “spade” electrical connector on top of fuel tank. Could have
inadvertently disconnected when someone was crawling in that space.
#7. You may be able to cleanup the checked screens by using a drill mounted
headlight polishing kit (Lowe’s) to remove the checked polarized film
from the lens to prolong the instruments life.