Proper deck mounting of Perko "Flush Ring Pull"

[Ziggler]

After months of redoing the deck, trying to re-install a small, square based 1 3/8" x 1 3/4 inch "Perko Flush Ring Pull" for my anchor locker (see attached sample of similar product). I really don't want to muss up the beautiful new deck regretted fresh hole!

QUESTION: Drill all the way through the hatch to insert the pull ring OR somehow "gouge out" the circular/spherical hole on the underside of the pull ring required?

And, if I don't drill all the way through, what tool/bit do I use to make the required "gouging" hole?

In other words, when I open the hatch, should I see a hole all the way through the lid with the underbelly of the latch hanging slightly hanging into the hole or just see the fiberglass? The hatch is probably just a bit thicker than the latch would.

I know this is a small question in a world of Big Questions, but I need someone else's point of view. Thank you for any help!

I've attached a sample part diagram from similar product to mine.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I guess I would try a similar-sized round router bit and try to stay just deep enough. If it pokes through, it should be sealed anyway, and I'd find a way to patch over it. Maybe simply with a piece of tape.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

I guess I would try a similar-sized round router bit and try to stay just deep enough. If it pokes through, it should be sealed anyway, and I'd find a way to patch over it. Maybe simply with a piece of tape.

Not a round plate. He said 1 3/8 by 1 3/4.

I'd set the screws lightly, scribe around with a sharp blade, use a chisel to let the plate in , then use a small fortsner bit to bore the cavity for the pull.

Then reset the four screws

 

[Ziggler]

Thank you, guys, you're talking about tools (fortsner bit, router bit ) I've been thinking about getting so this may finally inspire me. There seems to always be a "right tool", but I don't know which to even ask for... Thank you! Looks like the Forstner Bit is the key.

Note: It is a square plate, but with a centered "bowl" that hangs underneath. So the "tracing" method wouldn't work.

 

[justsomeguy]

Thank you, guys, you're talking about tools (fortsner bit, router bit ) I've been thinking about getting so this may finally inspire me. There seems to always be a "right tool", but I don't know which to even ask for... Thank you!

Note: It is a square plate, but with a centered "bowl" that hangs underneath. So the "tracing" method wouldn't work.

Invert the pull for your initial tracing?

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Invert the pull for your initial tracing?

Exactly. Been doing this stuff as a furniture repair and refinish man, then boat build and repair, since the 60's, so I forget simple things like that- I just do them

 

[Gunni]

Your drawing "A" provides you with a template for the holes to be drilled. Use it (paper print-out) to mark the attachment screws, and the center for the ring dimple (through drilled). I expect that your locker lid is uncored laminate so you will be sealing the fitting flange to the deck. I would not attempt to inset it into the laminate.

 

[justsomeguy]

Your drawing "A" provides you with a template for the holes to be drilled. Use it (paper print-out) to mark the attachment screws, and the center for the ring dimple (through drilled). I expect that your locker lid is uncored laminate so you will be sealing the fitting flange to the deck. I would not attempt to inset it into the laminate.

You just did the same thing that Scott and I did, missed the fact that his fitting's not actually round.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I expect that your locker lid is uncored laminate so you will be sealing the fitting flange to the deck. I would not attempt to inset it into the laminate.

Except, like Gunni, I wasn't anticipating that he should try to recess the whole plate. I know mine isn't, and neither are the hinges, which are hell on toes!

I was thinking that only a round bit on a router will provide the dimple if he is lucky and careful enough not to penetrate. The forstner bit might not work (unless the material is deep enough) because the center point might penetrate and he can only expect to get a column of material cut out, not a dimple.

The router would be very tricky to do, I admit. It will take some doing to keep it from walking off course.

 

[31seahorse]

There are "burr" type bits for a drill. A ball shaped one would probably be OK to gently and carefully bore down for the round depression of that ring pull. If you gouge too deep put a layer of cloth and epoxy across the inside of the hatch where the hole goes through.

It would be much easier to bore into wood. Perhaps epoxy a rectangular piece of teak onto the top of the deck hatch and mount the lift ring onto the block. Of course ease the edges so they are not toe whackers!

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

Should wind up looking kinda like this

 

[Ziggler]

You folks are great, thank you. I've thought about this for a while before troubling you with it I could not puzzle it out. You've been most helpful. My conclusions based on your advise:

1) Agree that I am not trying to recess the whole plate, just the round, dangling "underbelly".

2) While understanding I might penetrate the anchor locker lid with the center point of the Forstner bit, I'm going to try it and have ordered a 1 1/4" one for this job.

3) I'm doing #2 (above) instead of a burr bit because I don't trust myself to make a clean hole with the burr bit in a hand drill (the only option I'd have).

4) It's helpful to remember I can always, "put a layer of cloth and epoxy across the inside of the hatch where the hole goes through". So, not to get too paranoid about poking through the hatch.


Thanks again!

 

[Gunni]

By definition anchor lockers are not watertight, they have a bottom drain(s). I wouldn't worry too much about sealing the hardware install.

 

[pateco]

I did this for the same latch on my replacement icebox lid.

Measured the thickness of the hatch, and drilled a pilot hole to the correct depth to not penetrate. Then used a spade bit the diameter of the latch back to drill partway down to the pilot depth



Test fit the latch and used a dremmel tool to round out the bottom without going beyond pilot hole. (that is the old rotten hatch in the background on this photo)



Test fit the entire hatch:



Covered in matching Formica, and white epoxy paint on the bottom. You can see the hole for the latch in the left picture.



Then finally installed the completed hatch:

 

[SV Vertigo]

Hard to believe as much as these are used on boats there isn't an easier way to install
SV Vertigo

 

[Sailor Sue]

Whatever method/tool you decide on I would suggest you mount the hardware in a scrap block of wood a couple of times to perfect your technique. No use screwing up the boat if your first attempt goes south.

 

[pateco]

Whatever method/tool you decide on I would suggest you mount the hardware in a scrap block of wood a couple of times to perfect your technique. No use screwing up the boat if your first attempt goes south.

I just updated my pics above to show how I drilled the hole for my project.