Anyone have a suggestion where to get a price online for cutless bearings and engine mounts etc? I got a price of $728 for a new shaft that was based on a 1" diam 5ft long shaft i didnt have the precise sizes i need so was just getting an idea of price but a lot less than the $1500 the yard quoted
Prop shaft vibration, cutless bearing costs??
- Thread starter wilf
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Try this company, Boat Propellers, Prop Shaft Seals, Zinc anodes, and Marine HardwareDeep Blue Yacht Supply
When I used them a few years ago they had very good prices, good service, and were understanding of DIY errors.
When I used them a few years ago they had very good prices, good service, and were understanding of DIY errors.
Someone also suggested just putting an outboard on it but has anyone ever fitted an outboard to an oday 322 ? Looks like it could be difficult with the stepped transom?
The outboard question frequently arises when boat owners are confronted with major engine/transmission repairs. The short answer is that this is an idea that is past its prime.
Here are the issues:
Cost: The cost of a new 20hp motor is around $2500-3000. Then you have to add the motor mount. Of course you could buy a used motor, but then you'd be buying an old motor and old motor problems.
Sailing Performance: Sailboats want all the weight centered around the mast and keel. Hanging 100# of outboard a foot off the stern will adversely affect sailing performance mostly by increasing hobby horsing. Another issue is getting the outboard out of the water. Dragging the lower unit in the water while sailing will make the boat sluggish at best. Getting it out of the water will be a PITA.
Motoring Performance: In any kind of chop or wave action the outboard's prop will come out of the water, this will cause the motor to over rev and when it hits the water again over stress the drive train. Not good for making progress upwind in a chop and definitely bad for the motor.
Loss of Function: An inboard diesel provides adequate propulsion, battery charging, and water heating. An outboard will provide none of these.
Thanks was just considering it till i could get the prop and other work done, my last boat had an outboard but that was a 25ft and had never been built with an inboard
I think that this is th correct cutlass bearing...
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|311|2349117|2351343&id=3032871
Greg
I was thinking about this and realized I forgot to mention checking the prop for growth, etc. I am in fresh waters and don't get the accumulation of crud you salt water sailors get.
I am visiting in Maui and noticed some derelict boats in Ma'alena harbor...noticed the junk growing on the rudders and made me think about a fouled prop.
Greg
Bircher machine shop in Morehead City NC will make you a nice shaft but I don't know the cost of shipping to Long Beach. I am sure there are machine shops around you that cater to the marine industry. Just do a search and make a few calls. All it is is centerless ground stock with a taper, thread and keyway on one end and a chamfer on the other. Very simple work on a modern CNC lathe. Jim Bircher is a great guy and while you are on his site also order a signal cannon, you can mount it on your bow and use it during pirate invasions. http://bircherinc.com/shafts
Thanks guys for all your help, i have spoke to a local prop shop and a company for engine mounts
after you've taken a couple of waves over the stern while motoring thru narrow PNW passages (wind/rip-tide) - that chokes out your outboard - now do it 2-3 more times and you swear you'll never have an outboard again.
So an update on this vibration problem, got the boat out of the water today the cutlass bearing looks ok
( going to replace it anyhow as its out of the water) and the propshaft looks good, so far so the yard is saying the vibration is most likely weak engine mounts, anyhow i am having a hell of a job getting the shaft coupling off the end of the shaft any suggestions on how to remove it???
( going to replace it anyhow as its out of the water) and the propshaft looks good, so far so the yard is saying the vibration is most likely weak engine mounts, anyhow i am having a hell of a job getting the shaft coupling off the end of the shaft any suggestions on how to remove it???
This is a long video, shot over 2 days...getting my coupling off. The key is 2 plates (mine are 1/2" thick). One is solid (except for bolt holes) and one with a slot in it large enough to pass over the shaft. Bolt them together, put a socket or something similar in between the solid one and the middle of the coupling (it has a hole in it and you should be able to see the shaft end). Start tightening the bolts.
This video shows the parts and how I use them for removing the prop and the cutlass bearing.
Greg
This video shows the parts and how I use them for removing the prop and the cutlass bearing.
Greg
Stop! First rule of old boats is "the perfect is the enemy of the good"
If the yard thinks the cutlass bearing looks good, leave it be. Too many old boats never go sailing because the owner gets bogged down with endless repair projects. Focus on the critical items between you and a sail.
Engine mounts are a much more likely cause of your problem and it's hard to tell by looking at them when they need replacing. But old mounts sag and that puts the engine out of alignment. If they are more than 10 years old, replace them. Then align the shaft (something you should know how to do anyways). I'm betting that the vibration will be much better. It doesn't need to be perfect. Most boats have some vibration.
If that doesn't work. I'd look at the prop next. An almost invisible bend in a blade will vibrate a shaft. Send it out to a shop that specializes in prop repairs. They'll straighten it and rebalance it for very little money.
If the yard thinks the cutlass bearing looks good, leave it be. Too many old boats never go sailing because the owner gets bogged down with endless repair projects. Focus on the critical items between you and a sail.
Engine mounts are a much more likely cause of your problem and it's hard to tell by looking at them when they need replacing. But old mounts sag and that puts the engine out of alignment. If they are more than 10 years old, replace them. Then align the shaft (something you should know how to do anyways). I'm betting that the vibration will be much better. It doesn't need to be perfect. Most boats have some vibration.
If that doesn't work. I'd look at the prop next. An almost invisible bend in a blade will vibrate a shaft. Send it out to a shop that specializes in prop repairs. They'll straighten it and rebalance it for very little money.
Shaft couplings can be so hard to remove that the experts ( I understand that includes Maine Sail ) often recommend just cutting them off and replacing the shaft. Just be sure not to use the gear box output to press it off as that may result in a new gearbox.
Lots of good information on marinehowto.com from MS and on YouTube. Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Lots of good information on marinehowto.com from MS and on YouTube. Good luck, let us know how you make out.
Thanks Greg, i will make one of them, another question how do you get the coupling back on if its so tight?
If you are going to remove the shaft, watch this video too.
The shaft will come out without dropping the rudder...but you need to remove the cutlass bearing to get a little lateral play in the shaft.
If you have the original bronze shaft, inspect it carefully for cracks and wear (see video).
Greg
The shaft will come out without dropping the rudder...but you need to remove the cutlass bearing to get a little lateral play in the shaft.
If you have the original bronze shaft, inspect it carefully for cracks and wear (see video).
Greg
I plan to replace mine with a new split coupling when I replace the shaft. It is not recommended to reuse the press-fit coupling, and honestly, I don't think I could get it back on. Even getting a new press-fit on a new shaft takes some work. I saw a video of "pounding" a press-fit coupling on a new shaft. In the limited work area of my boat, I don't think I could do that. So I plan to use a split coupling, which I hope is easier to fit to the shaft once I get the shaft into the boat.
Greg