Problem with jib halyard

[riversloth]

Used a better camera and have a better view. It looks like the Isomat NG-2-30 exit block. Its a single sheave block so unless im looking at the wrong part, the line jumping the inner sheave is not the problem. In fact it looks like it may be pinched by the furller, maybe my mast is not tuned right. One thought i've had is, if i need to change the sheave, I don't see how. Another question I have now is. why two spinnaker halyards? There is another exit block lower with a line leading back to a rope clutch labeled staysail halyard.
Any thoughts?

 

[SG]

The Spinnaker halyard looks like it's running over the jib halyard (or it's twisted with it). I believe the spinnaker halyard is supposed to be "free" and run directly out.

Don't let the spinnaker halyard get into that guide above the furler.

I'd drop the jib, untwist or free the spinnaker halyard, then raise the jib.

 

[riversloth]

SG
They are all wrapped around each other. However I dont see that being my problem, otherwise id get some movement when pulling on the mast end of the halyard.
Ive read a lot trying to figure this out and I understand that the reason for leading the spinny down like that is to lessen the wear on the sheave, from the back and forth movement of the halyard.
Unless someone can give me a good reason for 2 spinnaker halyards, ill be eliminating one.

 

[jssailem]

It looks like you have 3 halyards. Two come out above the top of your furler I'll label

1. "A" upper sheave to Starboard,
2. "B" middle sheave to Port, and
3. "C" lowest sheave just beneath the connection of the Furler to the Mast.

It looks like you have a Profurler Doughnut at the tope of your furler. It is there to stop the halyard from wrapping around the sail as the furler is turned.

• Halyards "A" and "B" look to be used for Spinnaker, or a Sock for your furled sail.
• I would take the A halyard out beyond the front of the furler and locate it on the bow pulpit on the starboard side. The way it aligns with the furler I would use it to raise a sock as a cover for the sail on the furler.
• B halyard could be used as a Spinnaker halyard. I would put a block attached to what looks like the "fairlead" fitting. This would aid in managing the spinnaker and the way it moves about when being flown. You could also just use the "fairlead". But ti would add to the possibility of chafe of the halyard as the sail moved about while flying. This halyard looks to be bent back onthe port side of the mast. Any idea where it is hanging? Could it be wrapped somewhere? I would pull it forward and attache it to the Port side of the bow pulpit.
• C halyard is the one that you say is hung up? That is the one I would inspect. A hung up halyard that is run through the mast can be hung up where you can see it or it can get hung up on something inside the mast. This is where you need to investigate.

Can you take a picture of the attachment rig for the Jib on the furler? It needs to be one that will match with the doughnut so that it works correctly.

Your furler set up is not like the Harken set up posted earlier. It looks identical to the ProFurler set up I had on my boat.

 

[justsomeguy]

Unless someone can give me a good reason for 2 spinnaker halyards, ill be eliminating one.

One to hoist you, the other as backup.

 

[Kings Gambit]

My solution to these kinds of problems is to send up my rigger. Get it done, finished, and over with—then go sailing!

 

[riversloth]

jssailem
Yes the one halyard is wrapped back around a shroud. My jib has a sewn in sail cover, no need for a sleeve. I want to eliminate one of the halyards, one less thing to worry about. Also my boat is on a lake and I dont race, I doubt i ever raise my spinnaker. Attached is a picture with the jib on, before the mast was taken down. I hope you can zoom in enough to see what you were asking a picture of.

justsomeguy
I have a main to hoist me and one spin can be my safety. Honestly i don't like the way they look but have considered mast steps to climb the mast.

Sorry if Im not understanding, im upgrading from a catalina 22 with the 2 halyards, main and jib sheets, to this 37 with everything. And I need to replace everything.

Question. how often do most of you use your boom topping lift. would it make any sense to replace with a non adjustable wire, I also have a solid vang so my boom wont drop.

 

[justsomeguy]

I have a main to hoist me and one spin can be my safety. Honestly i don't like the way they look but have considered mast steps to climb the mast.

Well, somebody's got to go up to free your jib halyard, or at least assess the issue. Mast steps take a little of the strain off, but you still tension up while you're working.

It's possible to pull through some fresh cordage to ease your mind.

 

[justsomeguy]

Question. how often do most of you use your boom topping lift. would it make any sense to replace with a non adjustable wire, I also have a solid vang so my boom wont drop.

Lose the topping lift.

 

[jssailem]

OK. Still a bit fuzzy, but it looks like you raise the jib with a furler head bearing system. The way the unit is hoisted the halyard is held away from the furler extrusion. If the bearing s are working smoothly that looks like a good set up. Your furler then rolls the sail while the halyard and bearing unit stay put.

When you lower the sail does it come down smoothly?

If not it may be the way the furler block is sliding over the furler extrusion.

I could not see the upper section clearly. It does not look like a Profurler Block. Could not see a bar that would engage with the doughnut. The doughnut may just be to keep lines from wrapping on the top of the furler extrusion.

With regard to "line removal" There is nothing wrong with removing lines. When you do you might want to leave a messenger line in the mast in the off chance you change your mind a few years in the future. Running lines down a mast can be a PIA. Tying a Stopper Knot in the line and pulling it tight against the upper furler will remove it from conflict on the mast yet will make it available to your rigger to pull a new halyard if needed.

You may not be racing with a spinnaker but an asymetrical gennaker is a fun sail to have on those light breeze days. You can ghost along at 2-3 knots in silence when others are firing up an engine or staying at home.

 

[riversloth]

jssailem
When i took the jib down, it took a little effort but i figured that was because of all the not so good blocks that led the line to the cockpit jamming it up.
One thing i haven't said yet, but part of this project, is to terminate most of these lines at the mast.
Ill look into the gennaker. I have a spinnaker but haven't even pulled it from the sail bag to know exactly what it is. At first with all the extra lines i assumed it was all for the spinnaker, looked complicated so another reason i didn't plan to ever use it.

 

[jssailem]

Sometimes this stuff is all a mystery. I can assure you it gets easier with time. I am not with out my confusions. I resist drilling holes in my boat.

Fortunately, my friend Les is there to encourage me to break out the drill and shouts.... DO IT.. DO IT.. do it.. Oh Nooooooo. You did it... That will leave a mark. Dammmm.

So far no serious damage has been done. I am now able to close my thru hulls with out water flooding the inside of the boat. So progress does happen.

It is. winter. Pull out all of the sails and spread them about the house. I do that when my wife is not home. (Would catch hell otherwise). Look at all the sails Now is the time to identify issues and make corrections. Be it stitching or chafe repair. Also examine the head for problems. You might see chafe in a particular way that could give clues to your halyard issue.

It gets easier with time and more fun.

 

[riversloth]

jssailem.
The only reason i have any hesitation about about drilling into my boat is because of how i am remodeling houses. Instead of patching a hole, i rip out the wall and start over. I go overboard.
I hope to have this done by spring so i can sail it.
I do like sailing over motoring, my catalina 22 didn't have a engine and i didnt want one. I had to figure it out. worst case scenario was a paddle. It was always funny when a another sailboat would pass me yelling things like, tighten your main halard, pull in your mainsheet.

 

[jssailem]

A lot of helpers on the lakes in Arkansas.
Here they yell Dock It... Get out of the way!... Or just power over you... blowing a horn.

Not me and not my boat. But it happens.

 

[riversloth]

Thats scary. but is exactly why we avoid lakes on holidays. I wrecked my ski boat on the river after a 4th of july show. Another boat pushed me out of the channel and I hit a jetty. Luckily no one was forward of the windshield or they would have been thrown out.

 

[riversloth]

jssailemr
watched a video on the gennaker. looks possible but low priority. Just one question. Are they more forgiving then a spinnaker? I've read and heard that spinnakers if not constantly controlled could capsize your boat. Regular sails loose effectiveness as the boat heels and will turn your boat up or down before capsizing you, spinnakers just pull you over, that's my understanding

Anyway thanks everyone for their input, I've decided that I will eliminate two lines. the second spinnaker halyard and the boom topping lift. thats less spaghetti on deck, two less holes in the mast( since I am keeping all halyards and reef lines at the mast) and more money for other things. Ill replace the main and one spinnaker halyard first which will give me two safe lines to climb the mast and inspect the jib halyard before replacing it with the sta-sail halyard.

 

[jssailem]

The Gennaker is a big sail. Big sails and wind can try to control your boat If you do not.

That said they are generaly considered wasier to sail than a Spinnaker. You race a gennaker like a jib. It attaches to the Mast and the bow of the boat, like a jib. You run control sheets back to the stern. The sail is used in light air. It is like parachute material. If the wind picks up you douse the sail and switch to your jib or genoa. The sail can be collapsed using a Sock. You pull the sock up to fly the sail and down to douse it. You can also use a furling system (known as a top down furler) to roll the sail up should wind become too strong.

Like all parts of sailing it takes a little time to learn. The sail can be flown alone or with the main. It is for light winds. You generally sail from 90 to 160 degrees off the wind using a gennaker. By contrast a Spinnaker can be used to sail straight down wind 180 degrees off the wind.

You mentioned capsizing the boat. This is possible in a strong wind with too much sail flying. It is un likely that a careful captain will let his boat get out of control. The videos where you see this sort of thing usually occur when the skipper is totally un aware of the weather or is engaged in a race where speed is more important than safety. Wind and Large waves, 20 footers on a 35 foot boat are considered large, can challenge the stability and control of a boat the size of yours or mine. Reducing the sails by reefing returns control while still allowing you to sail the boat.

 

[twalker H260]

You’ve mentioned you are going to terminate your lines ar the mast. What is your thinking?
Lines led to the cockpit usually make the boat easier to singlehand and from what I’ve seen/read are usually preferred For safety as well.

 

[jssailem]

Hi @twalker H260. I think you are asking about the statement that the line would attach to the mast.

The discussion has been first about @riversloth's issue "multiple lines" that exit the mast near near the head of Furler. He does not want to have the extra halyards there, so he is considering removing the extra halyards that would be used for a second head sail like a gennaker or asymmetrical sail. I suggested he tie a stop knot in the end of the halyard and draw it up against the mast. That way, if later in life he decides he wants to add an additional head sail, he would have a messenger line and would not need to fish a halyard down the mast.

Your comment about safety and cockpit run lines is a good one. Yet, it is not the only way to safely manage a sail boat sailing solo.

There are issues with moving about a boat in weather. A solo sailor needs to weigh the risks and rewards of such actions.

I choose to have my halyards at the mast for several reasons.

I grew up managing sails at the mast. When I move about the boat I check my boat for loose gear and issues that I can not see while in the cockpit. I move about the boat using jacklines. These help me feel safe in my movement. I always use one hand on the boat. It is an engrained natural action for me. I have set my rigging up so that I can do nearly all of my sail trimming from the port side of the mast. Without the added lines to the cockpit and all of the turning blocks my halyards raise and lower the sail smoothly. I do not have a lot of lines running along the decks that I might trip on or roll an ankle. This makes deck movement safer.

I think each sailor should examine all the options and make decisions that best serve their way of sailing the boat.

 

[twalker H260]

I agree there are many ways to handle/rig a boat safely. I also use jack lines when solo as well, but am rigged with most lines led aft. I only go forward for two things - to drop anchor, and to take in a reef (which I do early)

Just want to make sure OP has thought about pros and cons of having to go up on the cabin top to raise/lower sail as well as for reefing.

Not sure how big the water is for him, or how fast weather can come up, but going up on a heaving deck, in the middle of a storm to adjust/reef/drop sail can be tricky when single handing - even with an autopilot. Keeping one hand for the boat should be an ingrained habit for any sailer!