Patrick/free boat question

[sailormanbigd]

its raining and dismal in "sunny florida" this morning, so the question...The Morgan 33 outisland has a outward flanged hull-to-deck joint. The po removed the rubber rubrail probably due to being chewed up from the dock. I am planning on glassing the joint on the inside for strength and water tightness while i have the bulkheads out. My question is what do i cover the approximately 1 to 1-1/4 inch flange with that will hold up to bumps and scrapes without splitting or rotting. I am not sure if i can even get the original heavy rubber rail and if i could find it it would probably be cost prohibitive. I was thinking about maybe plasteak kind of stuff screwed in from underneath, or wood then some off the shelf rubrail? I even thought of using firemans hose that i would split on the table saw? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, thanks. Patrick

 

[sailortonyb Allied Mis]

Lots of choices

There are lots of choices but keep in mind.....you will want the rubrail not so much as to protect your boat as you will want it to protect OTHER PEOPLES BOATS from you. With the high dollar boats in Florida, this is a biggie. I would check out local marine supply houses and places where shrimpers go.When I lived in Biloxi and Slidell, Ace Hardware would get you anything that they normally didnt carry in stock and mark it up 20%. Now, thats a deal. There is no shipping charges and usually they have it the next day. Give them a try. Too bad they dont do that in my area now.Good luckTony B

 

[Landsend]

Looks like a teak rub rail to me....

Usually these we're edged with stainless bar stock. You could use 1/2" braided line held on with stainless staples along the outside edge, like they used to on old dinghys.

 

[aibuilt]

Spring lines, Fenders and Whips

Just an idea.The cost of the rubber for that boat is probably around 300 easy, new. So yeah cost is a lot. But you would be surprised what is made for automobiles / trucks that costs cheaper and can be effective and at least ascetically acceptable that you can match up to that seam. They are also called rub rails.Also just a thought. What is your dock configuration? I've docked on flat bulkhead with a 32' cruiser and would simply add bow and stern line and a spring line in the middle with a fender aft and fore or a ball in the middle. Or cross spring lines with fenders and no damage. I've seen dock whips homemade pvc and purchased fiberglass. Both over the top with spring lines to the near dockside. So maybe a cheaper solution like rubber for something other than a boat will work just fine as you hinted too. Then just consider the best way to tie off. Either or both look around, so much out there for cheap or free that can be used.Ian

 

[Paul Brinkley]

How about that plastic decking

material sold by Lowe's and other building suppliers. Could you cut out a channel in that to fit over the joint, and glue or screw it on? Anybody know how tough that stuff is?

 

[Ctskip]

Why not use what the builder used?

It looks like teak. If you have access to routers and saws you can get teak almost for free, if you know where to look. Send me a email and I'll tell you where to look. You can even use it for your cabin floor. You have to promise not to tell everyone, or the sourse will dry up quickly. Keep it up, Ctskip

 

[Rich (P303)]

I can't get past...

the barnacles! Patrick... if you are going to go through all this work... you might as well do it right. I would imagine "your labor cost" would be the same whatever way you decided to do... you are struggling with the material cost. Ixnay on the firehose thing, crikey... you could just hang old rubber tires over the side.Why don't you try and replicate what is there? Or at the very least... use a typical "rubber/vinyl" rubrail setup to go around the whole vessel. When it is all said and done... maybe it will still look like a Morgan OutIsland.My hats off to you,Rich

 

[higgs]

Teak

If ctskip can tell you how to get it for free, why not use that? Why do something that isn't going to look good if you can get the teak for free?ctSkip, I'll bet we would all like to know how to get teak for free.

 

[Ross]

I shall try posting this again. The first attempt disapeared into cyber space.

Patrick, Hamilton Marine shows six pages of PVC rub rail in their 2004 catalogue but none in their online catalogue. Tend to the things that you can until you can find just what you want for this project. You will hate make shift if it looks bad.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

hull to deck joint isn't "outward flanged"

what I see in the picture is a flush hull/deck joint and an external wood rub rail.As the fix is different, which one are you guys discussing?

 

[sailormanbigd]

OK MORE INFO

The people thinking its teak-wrong. What i figure is that the po used a grinder to remove old rubber rail. gouged pretty deep with it and what you are seeing is a bondo type filler type mat'l slopped on the hull/joint. Its brown in color. Guess what-i have to grind it off.  The barnicles are long gone...the pics where early on-before i sailed it to Hudson bch. I since pressure washed the outside and some of the chaulk is off and looks cleaner. The exterior will be an easy fix for me. Just wanted ideas for the rubrail fix for the future. The outside would'nt look too bad if the rail was decent looking. I plan on replacing all the ports/windows with ss. The po made a makeshift wood frame/plexiglass cover so they do'nt open and let air in. Hey Ross, its like the one on the right-like i said..outward flange. Free teak?????????What have you been smoking!!!I think they charge 20$ a pound for teak sawdust, lol! psst-whats your email address? The boat is properly docked, its just the first time i dock in an unfamiliar area (currents) or something and bump the piling or dock or another boat(not on purpose) it won't shatter and have to be done all over again. Yeah I don't want to jury rig the thing, just thought firehose was tough stuff. I'm not looking to maintain the "classic" look of a morgan oi, hopefully i will improve on it, with luck and lotsove FREE TEAK WOOHOO.

 

[sailormanbigd]

yes Ross, now were cooking

yes i had the same thing in mind. Now what wood wood be linber enough to conform to the contour of the hull bend for/aft. Strong enough to take a mild bump, rot resistant enough for central gulf coast Fla, and reasonably priced? i have a table saw so i can rip a big board down to desired size/shape? I think cypress wood is too soft-i made some companionway hatch boards out of it and it dents very easy, but it is holding up well and is within my budget. thanks Ross

 

[JackJ]

Try Wefco rubber

I just rehabbed an old powerboat with a bad rubrail. I found Wefco Rubber througha powerboat restoration website. Wefco has virtually any rubrail profile you could want and they are much cheaper than any of the boating sources. I think I paid around $3.00 a foot for a pretty heavy duty rubrail. Check them out on the web.You can download a PDF catalog with full size profile drawings.

 

[sailormanbigd]

cedar, not cypress

sorry Ross, i made hatchboards from cedar.

 

[Ross]

If you can get some white oak

That is plenty strong, will bend very nicely if wet or green. You will need about 70 linear feet of say 5/4x 6. The plastic deck planking might be the way to go since you will have to paint any way. You can learn to make neat joints for long rails along the way.

 

[Malcolm Young]

I echo what Ross had to say with an added caution

White oak is a strong tough wood. I used it for the frame when I built my outboard runabout when I was in high school in the early 60's. The only problem I had was in the spray rails which I put on at the end of the process. It turned out that I had been sold some red oak which they called white oak. On average red oak is redder than white oak however it is not always redder and vice versa. The important difference is only found by looking closely at the pores in the end grain which in red oak are open and in white oak are kind of filled. I would suggest that you either must trust your source 100% or check out and google 'difference between white oak and red oak' The results will provide some useful information.I found the oak to be quite easy to bend to the curve of the boat when making the gunnels, chines etc. If you get it too green it will shrink some when drying. I got mine cut into very rough sawn planks at a woodlot and it had been air drying for 4 or 5 years. It was the good stuff. I got the wrong stuff at a building supply store.

 

[Ross]

If you cut oak with a very sharp saw and make slices about 1/8 inch thick

you can hold red oak up to the light a see through it and you can blow smoke throgh it with white oak looking through it is cloudy and you can't blow smoke through it. The pores are closed with tylosis.

 

[letterman]

sandwhich?

I like Ross idea...sort of....to much work. Make the bottom piece square. Why? You will be drilling through it for the screw that will hold the top in place.The top piece needs a slight bevel to the top, the rest is squared off.Then you finish it off with a flat piece of stainess! call a steel supply place and ask for a price on 316 1?" 1 1/4?" 1 1/2?" or whatever will tie the pieces together. Tell then you need it slit into the width you want. It's not a big deal. Then drill it and screw it in.OR go with a trim piece of wood.THEN do the same for the top lip of the deck!!! Trim the side with matching thikness, then cap it! You can the paint the glass in between a color. Mine in dark green and it look very nautical. Now to draw a picture.

 

[shemandr]

Don't forget - you can laminate

White Oak is a wonderful material. I've used it on gunnels(sp?) of two small boats I built. Don't forget you can laminate thin layers of it with epoxy for deeper curves. I think you could even do butt joints of veneers if you want to buy shorter boards which should be more available and cheaper than long ones. More work but you may save bucks. Save some sawdust to mix with epoxy to make fairing compound.

 

[Ross]

White oak doesn't do well with Epoxy!!!!

You need a different adhesive.