Crossed Stern Lines
Hermit, exactly how you cross your stern lines will depend somewhat on where the cleats are on your boat and where the pilings are relative to the cleats. You may have to position your boat in a particular position relative to the pilings to acheive satisfactory crossed lines. You keep the boat in such a position by using spring lines...lines that go from a midships cleat (if you have one), or from boat's stern cleat going forward to a piling or cleat on the pier, and a second one going from midship cleat or bow cleat going aft to a cleat or piling on the pier. On my current boat, to get crossed stern lines, the lines actually start out from the stern cleats in board the boat and pass through an opening in the push pit (stern rails) to pilings or cleats on the pier. You will want to position the boat with the spring lines such that the stern lines will not pull against the stern rails as this will be a chafe point and the rails/stanchons are not designed to take such loading. I also passed the lines through the stern rail openings in a similar manner with my previous boat also. But, if the slip is long enough, you might be able to pass the lines outside the stern rails...it just depends on your particular situation. When you tie the lines to the dock cleats or pilings, tie one side perhaps a foot or so higher than the other side. Make this higher line on the side towards where you expect the wind most of the time. This will cause the crossed lines not to rub/chafe each other when both are under load. Chafing gear at the crossing gives extra protection. The stainless rub strips that were mentioned are good protection to the gel coat provided that are no burrs or rough spots where the lines contact the strips. However, I don't use them...my lines pass over the gel coat and I've never had a problem with wear in 30+ years with two boats. Also, I don't have the chocks and don't really like them...just my idea. I don't like them because the lines normally make a turn at the chocks, sometimes very abrupt turns, which I believe results in another stress/line chafe point. Tie your lines with as much slack as your slip will allow, but keep in mind that in high wind conditions, the lines will stretch quite a bit. Also, tie the lines on pilings so that the lines cannot slip down the piling...if so, they tend to work down and then jam, which can cause lines to go tight in high water/rough conditions. This could then lead to pulled out cleats, broken lines, and damage to rubbing gelcoat under high tension.
Since you have already had broken lines, I would use at least two lines at each stern and bow cleat. You will give up some shock absorbing ability for the lines to stretch, but you will have higher holding power and a second line in case one fails. This is my normal tie up.
(My pier is known locally as Suicide Alley by lots of others in the marina, all of whom have moved to other piers that are a little more sheltered. I like this pier and thusfar, haven't had any damage. But I will put on extra lines in a minute if rough weather is expected....for hurricanes, that means 26 1/2 inch lines. I also tie to multiple tie points on the boat and pilings. On the boat, that means to shackles added at the bow stem plate, to midship cleats on the genoa track (if you don't have midship cleats, I recommend them..either permanent ones on the boat's rail, or the sliding ones on the genoa track. Shaefer made mine, but they have gotten really expensive, and Gauhauer (go to their website to order) and West Marine have alternate designs. I also tie to the primary winches during hurricane conditions, although lots of people seem afraid that the winches could be ripped out. Try to fix it so all lines in a given direction load up evenly. Lastly, when you get your lines adjusted like you like, use tape on the lines to mark the proper length if you are adjusting the length on the boat. This will make each docking easier.
