Oh Joy refit 10/14/09

[CharlieCobra]

More fun lately. We're getting down to the bones and finding less issues than anticipated.

You can see how dry this old wood is.

Broken deck frame

The cockpit hangs on three rods per side, interesting...

Getting into the bridgedeck where the decking was soft. No rot underneath.

Starboard quarter

Port forward

Starboard forward

Bow sans bowsprit, sure looks strange...

The Rockwell Sonicrafter has been and will continue to be invaluable. BTW, the blades are fairly cheap at $44 per 3-pack.

 

[dasboot]

Sick work and cheers! Good luck with the remainder of the project and keep us posted

 

[Pocahontas]

I love your updates keep em coming

 

[paulj]

CharlieCobra

Nice photos.
How long can you use the Rockwell Sonicrafter at a time.....do your hands get tired from vibration?


paulj :troll:

 

[BobM]

Glad the sonicrafter has come in handy and happy for you that there is less work than you thought. Have you given any thought to treating the frames with epoxy to prevent future water damage? or does it need to breathe?

 

[CharlieCobra]

Paul, I can use it for about 10 minutes before it bugs me but most jobs are shorter than that.

Bob, After I get all of the wood work done, I'll CPES any exposed wood and probably Sanitred the entire inside of the hull. That stuff bonds like no other and never comes off without stripping it. It's also 100% waterproof and UV proof. The boat has been on the hard for more than a year so I'm not worried about moisture needing to leave the wood.

 

[Rick D]

It Really Does Look Like Fun

Having owned a wooden boat for 19 years, this looks familiar and brings some nostalgia (from a distance...)

 

[dasboot]

"After I get all of the wood work done, I'll CPES any exposed wood and probably Sanitred the entire inside of the hull. That stuff bonds like no other and never comes off without stripping it. It's also 100% waterproof and UV proof. The boat has been on the hard for more than a year so I'm not worried about moisture needing to leave the wood."

That's going to be one STRONG boat when you're done. Any idea what it will weigh or if it will draft differently? Can you hear the wood flex while under sail and tension?

 

[CharlieCobra]

It should draft out the same. It doesn't move or creak now as it was C-Flexed in '94 so she's a very stiff boat. This of course makes for some challenges when replacing anything tied to the hull. I have to drill location holes from the inside, peal a spot of glass, fix the issue, re-glass and fair back in. Pretty much double the work that I'd have to do on a non-sheathed boat.

 

[Hermit Scott]

Charlie-in another post you talked about not being able to epoxy directly over wood or it would cost $40,000 to do your boat right. What was it you were talking about? And what problems are there with epoxy coating a wood boat?

Have you used sanitred in the past? Is that what you use for your non skid?

 

[CharlieCobra]

I just searched all of my posts and couldn't find that quote anywhere. Epoxy impregnating a fresh built cold molded style boat is great! Coating a carvel planked old boat isn't. I use Smith's CPES whenever I think it works but even epoxy is not water vapor proof or UV resistant. Some of the old school guys think it's a bad idea to coat both sides of the wood. If it's solid, spore free and dry, I say coat it or at least CPES it before ya paint it.

From the research I've been able to do, Sanitred is 100% water vapor proof and UV proof. It bonds at the molecular level and won't let go. The seal is complete. It was originated for ships and basement coatings but works well on a pleasure boat as well. I like it's tenacity and grip along with the sealing properties. The enemy of wooden boats is fresh water. Oh Joy is sealed outside and will be sealed inside as well before I'm done. I figure the wood can't rot if the water can't get to it. Any brightwork that may rot in the future won't spread to the rest of the boat because there will be a layer between it and the rest of the boat.

 

[dasboot]

i'm so jealous it makes me feel bad!

 

[CharlieCobra]

Here I sit, reading this and flexing my extremely sore hands and back. It is fun though. We'll see how fun it remains when the serious work starts though...

 

[Stu Jackson]

So all this was just the fun part before the serious work?

 

[CharlieCobra]

Yep, next I get to pull the house, about two dozen deck beams, parts of two planks on the Port side and some bad ribs. Then I get to fabricate all of the replacement parts. I get to build a steam box and bend the new ribs and stringer in, screw and glue it all together and repair the C-Flex. Oh, then it's interior, engine R&R, sanding, varnish and paint, sealing, new decks, etc, etc.. Yeah, the real work hasn't even begun yet.

 

[Ross]

The wood handbook lists epoxy as second only to parafin in moisture vapor resistance. far beyond whatever is in third place. Charlie, I have had a small crew working to clean out an old stone farm house that has been neglected and unoccupied for at least thirty years. We are starting to be able to see the details of construction and building methods. The hard work is just beginning. But so far we have been having fun bringing the old place back from the dead. Is the boat as bad as you expected or worse? With these projects it seems like you constantly uncover something else that needs attention before you can continue.

 

[CharlieCobra]

Interesting. I've been told the opposite about epoxy, go figure. Actually, the boat is in pretty good shape and I'm able to see the secrets of her construction now as well. If I hadn't pulled these decks, she likely would've been a goner in less than five years. Now it's just the butt blocks and some deck beam ends that are soft. It would've been ribs, stringer, carlins and major timber by then. The galvanizing on some of the timber bolts has failed but the timber hasn't been struck with iron sickness yet. I'm still in the tear down and discovery stage but the scope of work is starting to take form. I'm also running out of hidden spaces.

 

[Ross]

I presume that you know about Ospho for trearing rust? It is a phosphoric acid concoction that is sold in many chandleries. I will see if I can find an on line reference to moisture resistant coatings. Sounds like you made a good catch in your timming.

 

[CharlieCobra]

I've used similar chemicals for treating rust on autos when I did body work. I need to pull the ones I can and check the bores. Don't wanna miss anything in there.

A link would be cool, thanks.

 

[Ross]

I'm working on that the ones that block 90 percent or better are 3 coats of clear epoxy or six coats of aluminum flake pigment urethane and dipped paraffin. it is from chapter 16 of the encyclopedia of wood. All I have found so far is links to the place of purchase. Have you met Bob Smalser yet? He posts on Woodenboat forum and has forgotten more than I will ever know about wood.