Oday 28 Holding Tank Replacement
- Thread starter DYFLWD
- Start date
I don't recommend SeaLand OdorSafe hose...I've personally been on too many boats on which it has permeated in less than a year.
There are only two hoses I recommend...Trident 101 and Raritan SaniFlex. Trident 101 is about the same price as the SeaLand hose. It's a double-walled rubber hose that's been on the market about 20 years without a single reported odor permeation failure...but it has one possible drawback: it's as stiff as an ironing board, so unless your hose runs have no bends sharper than a gradual sweep, it may not be the best choice, 'cuz heating any hose to make it bend tighter than it wants to bend willingly will damage it, causing it to tear or kink...so you'd have to break it and insert inline radius fittings. Raritan SaniFlex is pricy...but it's so flexible that it can literally make a U-turn...and there's never been single reported odor permeation failure in it in the 6+ years since Raritan introduced it.
So which to use depends on how straight the sections will be. This is NOT the place to go cheap to save money 'cuz you'll just end up having to spend more later if you do.
Both are available in 1" and 1.5", but the vent line is one place you can risk going cheap as long as it's sanitation hose and not water hose. So you can use Shields or Trident #148 for that and your toilet inlet line.
I should be at the boat this weekend, and will look to post pictures then. Should be splashed this weekend. Hopefully warm enough to install the new windows
Dy I am going through the same with my 34 that has the same tank and same openings. Still working on the replacement tank size. The raritan hose looks to make the job easier but the Ronco folks said it needs special raritan fittings which may present a problem connecting to the old head and manual pump. Have you heard about this? Have you figured out a new tank size yet? Going higher looks good but I am told we need three inches of clearance over the tank for the fittings. There looks to more room to go longer but getting it through the 22 x 11 inch hatch will limit it.
Three that might fit with no or little cutting are, 39w 35x13x11, b181 30x18x10.5, and b231 28.25x17.75x13.75.
I believe a major design problem was leaving a low spot in the deck pump out hose. With a stand tube top outflow it might be possible to run a constant slope up from the tank to the deck.
Three that might fit with no or little cutting are, 39w 35x13x11, b181 30x18x10.5, and b231 28.25x17.75x13.75.
I believe a major design problem was leaving a low spot in the deck pump out hose. With a stand tube top outflow it might be possible to run a constant slope up from the tank to the deck.
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First time I've heard that! Only mention of fittings on that page in the Raritan website says the interior of the hose is "Smooth walled – no ridges – easily fits over fittings." Nothing about needing any special fittings. So I suspect that someone (someone who has a vested interest in a competing hose maybe???) has fed Ronco some bad information.
Wellll...maybe. That depends on where the low spots are, 'cuz switching to hard pipe for a short run, then back to hose requires unions...and every union is a hose connection that can leak. Better to eliminate the low spots. And btw...you need 5" of clearance above the tank for a 1.5" 90 inlet and discharge...3" for a 1" vent line. If you'd like some help spec'ing your fittings locations to keep waste from spilling into the inlet and vent lines--and where to use hard pipe or not--give me a shout via PM.
Peggie
"If you can't explain it to a six year old, you don't completely understand it yourself." --Albert Einstein
I have decided to go with a 30L/14W/10H tank which adds up to 18 gallons. I might just squeeze it in but am prepared to enlarge the access hole a little if necessary. This tank will be special order with all ports on top and a dip tube for the pump out. I need to make sure I have 5" clearance on top for 90 fittings but should be good. I am using Pure ayre to try to get rid of odor under the hatch. I ripped up all the nasty carpet and will replace with new hull liner. The old cushions are being washed. I want to add a shelve on each side what type of wood should I use? I want something like the attached photo
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I have finished the installation of the new holding tank. In the end I went with a 15 gallon which is 1 more gallon capacity then the old tank. (Ronco Plastics B251). I could have gone a few inches wider without enlarging the access hole but they didn't have a tank with those dimensions available. I could have had a custom tank made but it was not worth the money to me for the few extra gallons. I used the expensive but very high quality Raritan Sani / Flex Sanitation Hose - 1-1/2. The tank vent was drilled wrong, it was 3/4 not 1" so I just put a 3/4 to 5/8 adapter elbow from Lowes and used Trident VAC XHD Sanitation Hose - 5/8"..all from defender. Peggy really recommended 1" for the vent but the head is only used for #1 and only #2 for an absolute emergency I figure 5/8 should be ok. I am on a lake at a marina with a pump out very close to my slip. I have all fittings on the top with a standpipe for the pump out, I highly recommend Peggys book, it really made me understand a boats sanitation system. The one unanswered question I have is should I have looped the inlet hose to the tank for an vapor block? I do plan on flushing the the line after each use with 1/2 to a gallon of water to make sure nothing but water sits in the line. Now to the next project..replacing the hull liner!
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No sir I mean after each use of the head..I know thats a lot of (lake)water but you have to make sure all contents are pushed in the tank and do not sit in the hose. That limits me to just several uses an outing but I do sail on an inland lake and have a pumpout near my slip. I will try to pump out after each day on the lake if it gets used.
You don't have to fill up your tank with flush water just to prevent hose permation. A quart/liter once a day is enough.. Most people don't realize that any toilet that's working anywhere NEAR factory spec can move bowl contents at least 6 linear feet or 4 vertical in the dry mode. So if you learn to use the dry mode to do more than just empty the bowl, you'll leave very little in the toilet discharge TO rinse out.
You MIGHT want to check out the link in my signature...it goes to a comprehensive "marine toilets and holding tanks 101" manual that you prob'ly should have read before you installed a new tank, but which will make it a lot easier to prevent problems.
No. The joker valve in the toilet provides all the "vapor" lock needed if you replace it annually as part of spring recommissioning. However, if the run from the toilet to the tank is uphill, you can conserve flush water even more by putting a loop in the toilet discharge line immediately after the toilet (aim the discharge fitting straight up) that's a few inches above the top of tank, so that you'll only have to pump long enough to push the bowl contents--or your rinse water--over the top of it...gravity will do the rest.
You MIGHT want to check out the link in my signature...it goes to a comprehensive "marine toilets and holding tanks 101" manual that you prob'ly should have read before you installed a new tank, but which will make it a lot easier to prevent problems.
