Now I've gone and done it...

[SeaTR]

Well, it's the end of another sailing season here in southern NE for me, and time to haul out the boat (1981 H22 swing keel). On the way home with boat on the trailer I notice a billowing cloud of smoke around the right wheel. This trailer is an original (Magic Tilt, single axle) and I'm the 4th owner. Pulling over to a side street, I see the right wheel suddenly and magically "tilts" inward. I wondered if THIS is what is meant by a "Magic Tilt" trailer.. naahhh, couldn't be. :-}

Upon further inspection, yes you may have guessed it, the axle failed... right under the leaf spring u-bolts area. It had rusted through inside to out. I kept up with visible rust control & painting, and the trailer only saw salt water 2x / year: launch and haul out. I have yet to take any long trips with it, and am content to sail on Long Island, Fishers Is, and Block Is sounds. Saying something like 'OMG' comes to mind now, but what I ACTUALLY said, I'll leave to your imagination. And to think that I was only ~200 yards from my street... Home sweet home was beckoning to me and my now lame trailer.

Finally the POINT of this thread: As this trailer is OEM, I'm leaning towards not repairing or replacing the axle / wheels. Rather, buy a NEW TRAILER altogether. Thus I need your help!! Hey, all you swing keel H22 (older version) owners out there, any recommendations / experiences with a replacement trailer??

...also see parallel posting / discussion on Hunter Owner Forums> Smaller Boats...

 

[Apex]

once you start pricing, you might find a good repair source much easier, and cheaper. What is the frame constructed of? box beam, c-channel ?

 

[SeaTR]

c-channel...AND it's a bit twisted from the ordeal.

 

[hewebb]

Mine broke 50 feet from the launch ramp. This was after a 200 mile trip home from buying the boat. I elected to replace the axels. The trailer is a converted flat bed trailer that came with 3500 axels, I installed 5200 axels. I drilled drain holes on the bottom side and turned them upside down and poured paint in the tube to coat the inside.

 

[Tom G P-21]

Samething happened last year to my trailer for my 88 Precision. The frame was galvanized and in good shape. If you do end up just replacing the axle, check the springs they might need to be replaced as well. The new axle had the backing plates so if I want to add brakes I can.

Do you have a photo showing the damage to the trailer?

 

[Dougo]

Without knowing how "twisted" the channels are, it may be worth it to just replace the axle. I don't think it would soak you too much (compared to replacing the trailer). here's one source, there are many others:

http://www.easternmarine.com/Magic-Tilt-Factory-Replacement-Axles

 

[SeaTR]

Thanks Dougo.

"Damage pictures"?? ... yes, see the original posting.
I'm not so sure I want to repair / replace the axle. It seems there are sturdier alternatives to my 32 YR OLD Magic Tilt with "extendo-tongue"...

No recommendations yet? (i.e, I'll take ANY 'kind' or 'not-so-kind' words on the various boat trailer makers' products). There must be someone out there with comment.

Hilfe, bitte !

Vielen Dank.

 

[SeaTR]

hewebb,
50 feet !! MAX BUMMER.
I love the drain holes / paint idea, thanks !

Tom G,
Yes the leaf springs ARE shot...I may not stop there. Call it overkill, but a 32 yr old trailer could be hiding some other secrets that I am not able to detect.

 

[rgranger]

I've been buying and selling old sailboats on eBay and Craigs List for almost 15 years now. I can tell you this about the trailer market. A new trailer will set you back $1,200 min. if you are very lucky. And that will be a low end trailer. But you can buy a new axle at Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply for about $300. Hire a welder for another $100 and you are good to go.

Another trick is to look for a really crappy ski boat on Craigs List sitting on a nice trailer. I've done this twice. Buy it for the trailer, then pressure wash the boat, and offer the boat up as a project and someone will buy it for $100. The down side of this approach is you will have to do some trailer modifications to make it fit your boat. The up side is you can often get a high quality trailer for a few hundred bucks. I got a dual axle trailer this way and was out of pocket $300 by the time I did all of my deals.... but it was a pain in the asterisk. Your trailer looks fixable. I'd go that route.

 

[SeaTR]

Thanks, rgranger, I'm considering ALL avenues at this time...the extremes being: bite the bullet and buy new, or replace the axle, wheels, tires, and springs on the existing 32 yr old trailer with its unknown history. I 'm not all that comfortable with the "buy used then piece together" method.

 

[dscribner]

Buy a new axle and some galvanized u-bolts and call it a day. A new trailer, from what I'seen, is around $3500. The rest of your trailer appears to be fine and it already fits your boat.

 

[Tom G P-21]

When I was in the same situation last year I looked at what a new trailer would cost, $3000, almost 2/3s of what I paid for the boat. Hunter is still in business, call the local dealer for a quote for a new one or they might have a local person who has made them for them.

When I ended up doing it myself two things I did was; First marked the frame where the axle was before I removed it. Second I wasn't comfortable ordering the axle on my own. I took mine to the local trailer shop and they took the measurements ordered it and prepped it for me when it came in. They drilled a hole for the locating pin for the springs. Most axles have a camber so you want the hole on the correct side ( depending whether its above or below the springs). It might have been $50 more but it would be easier to return if there was a problem. Also I ordered galvanized axle.

 

[SeaTR]

Yes, I hear 'ya dscribner, and thanks, you are about right; price quotes so far for a new trailer are ~$3000 + or - , but I don't want to throw 'good' $ after a potentially 'bad' trailer. Plus, of course, I don't want to 'overspend' as well by dipping too deep into the retirement fund. (especially with all this ACA stuff flailing around !)

TomG, your suggestion is mighty tempting, but I'm doubting the OEM trailer, at present. It's one of those "how safe is safe" things.

So, all in all, I suppose I'm like many others.
I want my cake and eat it too!
...but can't...

Any other input / ideas out there ??

 

[Doc_holiday]

I know Northern Tool carries lots of trailer axles. It may not be a bad idea to simply modify it to a two axle set up while you're at it.

 

[rgranger]

Glenn-L marine sells a booklet on how to build boat trailers. I have a copy and although I have never built a trailer from scratch... reading this book gave me the confidence to modify mine as needed.

Here is a link to the page...

http://www.glen-l.com/boat-trailer-plans/

The booklet is $37

 

[SeaTR]

Thanks again, rgranger for the trailer modification book idea. I still hesitate to repair this 32 yr old Magic Tilt trailer.

Are there still no specific comments out there re: quality, service satisfaction, and cost of sailboat trailers by any of the manufacturers???

I need to decide / resolve this issue SOON...it's not so much me as it is the First Mate .. ! :-(

 

[Chief RA]

SeaTR: From the deep pitting beneath the trailer paint that you probably put on, I understand why you do not want to rebuild it. My 1974 Clipper Marine trailer was deeply pitted like that and I always worried about it even with 2 axles. I also completely restored the boat but not the trailer.
Maybe try to find a dual axle fresh water trailer in the local boat salvage yard and have it modified for your boat. A good welder would take the specs from your existing trailer runners and make it up. The picture of your boat/trailer indicates it might be a pretty straightforward job.
Just got back from 10 days in Bodega Bay on the boat!

Good luck, Chief

 

[finding41]

SeaTR. I'm not sure that the axle that broke on you is the original. It just doesn't look right ware it attaches to the dust cover of the hub. It kind of looks home made... Another clue is the plate that the spring is attached to... What is that for? I've always welded the spring shackle/holder directly on to the frame. Never to some other piece that is bolted on.
I think your going the right direction with repair.
I'd go with a double axle myself and weld it to another sub frame (Box) that gets bolted inside the one there now. This will keep the wheels strait and allow for any twists the frame may have. It will keep the trailer the same height as well.
See drawing. The axles go under the sub frame. Place the subframe so it is strait.

 

[Apex]

c-channel...AND it's a bit twisted from the ordeal.

At least you can be sure of no hidden internal rusting with the c-channel. Looking at the pictures: l wouldn't hesitate for safety on replacing/welding on new leaf spring brackets and

Unfortunately, i don't have any experience on new sailboat trailer recommendations. BUT Take comfort in your remaining pieces of the trailer. They look to be in GREAT SHAPE. If there are any other design deficiencies, those can certainly be adressed as well while still WELL under the cost and headache of new or retrofitting a different trailer.

Try here (from Catalina 25 association)
http://www.catalina-capri-25s.org/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=6007
I had a powerboat on a VERY nice "shorelandr" trailer: 2006 Sea Ray bowrider. Also worth a look.

 

[rgranger]

Not exactly what you asked about but..... since it seems like you are thinking of going with a duel axle trailer....

I don't know what state you are in but here in Virginia, there is a big difference in the PITA regulations between a single and a duel axle trailer. If you have a duel axle trailer you have to take it to an inspection center once a year and get it looked over. IThere really aren't that many inspection centers for trailers in the state so it is usually a drive, and you have to leave it with them a few days so.... you get to make the back and forth twice. If you can get away with a single axle, I'd stick with one.