@SV Maverick I'll see if I can find my order records and see what gear ratio's I used and where I purchased them.
New to us Hunter 40.5
- Thread starter SV Maverick
- Start date
From what I can remember it takes two turns (have to check this) from hardover to hardover. From the chart that would require a 13 tooth and 38 tooth. The 13 tooth can come from raymarine but the 38 tooth comes from the steering manufacture? It requires a 3/8 inch pitch chain. Not sure diameter of the Fenner or trantorque coupling.
I'm not sure its 2 turns and I have my steering disconnected for the replacement of my rudder right now. Maybe @Rich Stidger can chime in with the full left to full right. I'm working on finding my receipts for what I bought. I purchased the both sprockets from US Roller Chain & Sprockets. I wanted mine in Stainless Steel and I used stainless steel for the chain too. I did not use a Fenner or trantorque coupling and adjusted the tension by washer/spacers under the rotary drive motor by trial and error. I've had no problems what-so-ever in operation of my autopilot. As soon as I find the paperwork I'll scan it and send you a private message. I also found the receipt for my fuel tank from Ezell and my waste tank from Triple-M. I'm sure the price has gone up on all those things though.
It was very gracious for Hunter to put these cables in. Literally hundreds of dollars in this.
But, it would have tricky for them to omit, as they really didn’t know at time of preliminary build if the owner was buying the windlass. (I should have). The cost of fishing the cables in at a later state would have been very expensive, so it made sense.
Good luck with the install
Yep, you are right. That is what I purchased in stainless steel from USA Roller Chain and Sprockets. The 13 tooth they had stock in Stainless but had to have the 38 tooth bored to 1" with a 1/4 inch keyway. I'll send my order form.
Dan
Full port to full starboard is about 2 1/4 turns. That is from center to either port or starboard just over one full turn.
Thanks Dan for the sprocket information. Did you order the chain from them also?
Going to look today about how to remove the pedestal fairing for access. There does not seem to be a lot of screws holding things in place? Does the instrument panel have to be removed? Access through the top cooler? I will take pictures for future reference.
Also noted that most of the Hayzak type hatches are ""over closed" to compress the gasket. Levers are not inside the latch, but compressed to the outside bottom. All of those will be replaced with parts from here. Ordered 45 ft of material. One disappointing note is that the "special" gasket glue is Loctite 410 in a small tube (.1oz). Many better sources for that if I knew what it was ahead of time.
Going to look today about how to remove the pedestal fairing for access. There does not seem to be a lot of screws holding things in place? Does the instrument panel have to be removed? Access through the top cooler? I will take pictures for future reference.
Also noted that most of the Hayzak type hatches are ""over closed" to compress the gasket. Levers are not inside the latch, but compressed to the outside bottom. All of those will be replaced with parts from here. Ordered 45 ft of material. One disappointing note is that the "special" gasket glue is Loctite 410 in a small tube (.1oz). Many better sources for that if I knew what it was ahead of time.
I did all my access for installation of the rotary drive through the lift out cooler. I don't think you'll gain much for installation from pulling the instrument panel. However, while you're doing all this work, it might be worth it to pull the instrument panel so you can lubricate the bearings for the helm shaft and lub/check all the throttle/shift cables, clean any electrical connections, etc. There is enough slack in the electrical wires to the instrument panel to be able do that work without disconnecting the panel.
If I might suggest, you might bore larger, and use the Fenner coupling
It will make your install CONSIDERABLY easier
All you will need to do is slip the chain over the motor, then over the other gear. As the Fenner is oversized the the shaft before tightening, it gives you total slack to simply lift it onto the steering shaft, and then tighten up. Also, if you need shims in the motor mounting, then it is really easy to take the chain on and off when you adjust.
I did not even realize the cooler lifts out. Once the cooler was removed I was pleasantly surprised to see the mount for the Type 1 rotary motor. Now I have to plan where the EV-1 heading sensor and ACU-200 actuator control unit go. I will probably place the P 70s control head display in one of the existing spaces. The rudder reference will be easy to mount. Still learning about Sea Talk and how everything integrates together.
I don't disagree with you at all @artboas. You learn something new everyday on this Forum. I didn't use a Fenner coupling simply because I didn't know of it's existance at the time or I might have gone that way. However I did not think the install was that difficult but do admit I banged up my knuckles a little. I.ve had no problems with my drive system since my install an I am sure you are the same with your Fenner coupling. Since I don't know how the Fenner "installs" I don't understand the bore larger comment but I am sure if @SV Maverick want's to go that route you can give him the details on how to use the Fenner coupling
I put my EV-1 Heading sensor as close to the centerline as I could under the cabin sole in the V-berth. The sole can be removed with a few screws and there is a shallow pan underneath that sole and the EV-1 fits nicely in there. Just make sure you don't sit anything made of carbon steel (like a tool box with wrenches, etc) on that sole. I set everything up, calibrated the sensor and a little while later went forward and took a tool box out of a locker and set it right on top of the EV-1 sensor. The boat did a Crazy Ivan and scared the 
out of me. Luckily I had some sea room to recover.
I put the AC 200 behind the panel under the Nav table. Fits nicely there. The power was already run to the helm for the drive motor.
Good luck with your install. By the way, if you look closely I found that Hunter (or the PO) installed some "extra" brand new (to me) power wires in a few locations obviously for "future" use. So before you start pulling wire for something be sure to poke around and see if there is an extra power wire coiled up somewhere and just not connected to the panel or to anything.
Smokey
out of me. Luckily I had some sea room to recover.I put the AC 200 behind the panel under the Nav table. Fits nicely there. The power was already run to the helm for the drive motor.
Good luck with your install. By the way, if you look closely I found that Hunter (or the PO) installed some "extra" brand new (to me) power wires in a few locations obviously for "future" use. So before you start pulling wire for something be sure to poke around and see if there is an extra power wire coiled up somewhere and just not connected to the panel or to anything.
Smokey
Smokey really knows this boat. Also had access to the throttle/shift mixer. In neutral the throttle works smoothly (after a little superficial lubrication), but when the pin is pushed in the throttle/shift has moderate drag to it and seems kind of clunky. Should I take that apart and lubricate it also? As usual as I work on one thing another problem surfaces so instead of one project it becomes three different issues. Of course that is the fun of doing all this and learning the systems of the boat. Thanks to the forum for making it a great learning experience.
Also finally got the Saloon table to move. The PO stated he did not bother to move the table in 25 years. It has been PB blasted every couple days for a month now. Of course it is stuck in the down position now. The counter balance weight still is stuck (not that that would help at this point). I will have to use a bottle jack and carefully placed wood supports to get it back in position. I try to be cautious with any of these projects and adopt the philosophy of do not cause any extra damage before figuring out how to best solve the problem. The real issue here is that there is a leak through the mast that was never corrected. Understandably it is a "small" leak and could be tolerated, but as most things on a boat it bites you in the ass later if you do not take care of it.
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@SV Maverick don't give me too much credit. I'm still learning everyday. Most of what I know I learned from the sailors on this Forum and from the other 40.5 owners on this Forum like @Rich Stidger and @Rick D. Of course there is the experience from poking and prodding around to find something, run something, or just because I like messing around in boats.
To quote the Water Rat in "The Wind in the Willows"
“Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.“
To quote the Water Rat in "The Wind in the Willows"
“Believe me, my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.“
Installing the EV AP I found that it was pretty much plug and play.
Going beyond that I found answers in this PDF.
Just a quick update. I have finished most of my planned updates and more. Also a call for some HELP....LOL
1) Put in a new Dickinson three burner stove, gas line and propane locker. It was a great fit and just required replacing the gimbal mounts. Very lucky. We did this on the hard. I had my wife winch the oven up as I directed it. It looks really nice. I'll post pictures if any one is interested. I used a trident propane locker and mounted it on the port platform of the walk through transom. Put the propane control over the instrument panel.
2) Installed a type 1 rotary drive with custom S.S. gears and S.S. chain. Thanks to Smokey for the information on that. Really a satisfying project. You have to make your own chain length and tension it. Nothing fancy required but a chain breaker and master link. Tension is achieved by shims and lateral position of the drive. ACU 200 (under chart table), i70 MFD, Auto pilot P70S and 9" Axiom MFD with Lighthouse Charts. Remarkable, smooth operation. I do have to remount the EV-1 for better reception. I can post some pictures if anyone is interested. It really helps with a boat this size to have the autopilot.
3) Installed a new Seaward Marine 6 gallon water heater. The old one was rusted and not properly installed. The new one works great.
4) Installed two new sink-shower combo faucets. The old ones were corroded and their shower lines both leaked. I waxed the chrome fixtures after installation to help ward of corrosion.
5) Installed two new "regular" size Jabsco twist and lock heads. One of the old ones was cracked at the base and neither of the old ones pumped properly. The new ones are nice especially with a full size seat and operate well. I like plumbing projects and these installed very nicely.
6) Finishing up windlass installation. After months of looking I found the Quick R3 with an open throat and capstan. My wife requested a hand control and that is what she got. Just about finished rough wiring of the reversing solenoid and hand control. The main power wires 2/0 cables were in the V berth. Just have to mount some stress relief areas and finish wiring. I'll post pictures of this if anyone is interested. Of course now I want to install anchor wash...
This is kind of funny...for the life of me I can not figure out where the heck the power cables exit for the battery hook up and breaker? Did they take the positive all the way back to the Perko switch? On my boat there is an external (starboard locker) Perko ON/OFF and a more typical Perko OFF 1 ALL 2 mounted above the engine. The starter battery is just in front of the engine (which I assume the windlass should be powered from). Looking for a terminated cable or unconnected power cable but none are visible? Under the chart table there are labeled unused air conditioner wires, but no evidence of windlass wiring? Suggestions?
1) Put in a new Dickinson three burner stove, gas line and propane locker. It was a great fit and just required replacing the gimbal mounts. Very lucky. We did this on the hard. I had my wife winch the oven up as I directed it. It looks really nice. I'll post pictures if any one is interested. I used a trident propane locker and mounted it on the port platform of the walk through transom. Put the propane control over the instrument panel.
2) Installed a type 1 rotary drive with custom S.S. gears and S.S. chain. Thanks to Smokey for the information on that. Really a satisfying project. You have to make your own chain length and tension it. Nothing fancy required but a chain breaker and master link. Tension is achieved by shims and lateral position of the drive. ACU 200 (under chart table), i70 MFD, Auto pilot P70S and 9" Axiom MFD with Lighthouse Charts. Remarkable, smooth operation. I do have to remount the EV-1 for better reception. I can post some pictures if anyone is interested. It really helps with a boat this size to have the autopilot.
3) Installed a new Seaward Marine 6 gallon water heater. The old one was rusted and not properly installed. The new one works great.
4) Installed two new sink-shower combo faucets. The old ones were corroded and their shower lines both leaked. I waxed the chrome fixtures after installation to help ward of corrosion.
5) Installed two new "regular" size Jabsco twist and lock heads. One of the old ones was cracked at the base and neither of the old ones pumped properly. The new ones are nice especially with a full size seat and operate well. I like plumbing projects and these installed very nicely.
6) Finishing up windlass installation. After months of looking I found the Quick R3 with an open throat and capstan. My wife requested a hand control and that is what she got. Just about finished rough wiring of the reversing solenoid and hand control. The main power wires 2/0 cables were in the V berth. Just have to mount some stress relief areas and finish wiring. I'll post pictures of this if anyone is interested. Of course now I want to install anchor wash...
This is kind of funny...for the life of me I can not figure out where the heck the power cables exit for the battery hook up and breaker? Did they take the positive all the way back to the Perko switch? On my boat there is an external (starboard locker) Perko ON/OFF and a more typical Perko OFF 1 ALL 2 mounted above the engine. The starter battery is just in front of the engine (which I assume the windlass should be powered from). Looking for a terminated cable or unconnected power cable but none are visible? Under the chart table there are labeled unused air conditioner wires, but no evidence of windlass wiring? Suggestions?
