New to us Hunter 40.5

jssailem · Jan 7, 2022

Welcome to the SBO Forum. Congrats on your new to you boat. Looks like you have a good list of projects.

Not that they sound at all unreasonable, I like to suggest to new owners "Get too know your boat perhaps for a few weeks, before they go rushing into modify or make the boat more complex".

You can always take such actions. You can never undue something you later discover was a pretty good setup and did not need fixing.

Some observations (not recommendations) about your list.

1) Need an electric windlass. Looks like power cables were built into the boat but the windlass was never installed. . V1 Gypse windlass or V2?

Your choice depends on the size of your anchor locker, where you plan to place the windlass, and what type of anchorages you plan too frequent. Also consider the anchor size and the amount of chain you plan to carry. These influence the power and size of the windlass you will need.

2) Would like to install an auto pilot. Raymarine autopilot EV 200 /P 70S?

Based on your boat displacement, the EV200 is the design to service your boat. Definitely the P70S control head.

3) New electronics. Raymarine I70 system pack? Raymarine Axiom 9 RV or ipad?

If you are going new electronics, The Axiom is certainly a nice tool. Not sure why Real Vision is needed. More of a fishing feature. But this is what you want not me. Of note there are some other chart plotters out there that better serve the saling needs of our boats. This becomes a real "I like this" world. I recommend you research the market and understand the options.

4) Convert to all LEDs including courtesy light (with RBGW).

Not sure why converting all LED's to RBGW is important. Certainly having red light in the baot when sailing at night is a tool to help maintain your night vision. Your boat your choice. I would encourage controls that will prevent you turning on white light when you need red.

5) Convert CNG stove (NEVER USED!) to LP or induction stove and battery galley?

Induction adds complexity. The less complex the less to go wrong. What ever action you take be sure you use best practice builds.

Looking forward to pictures and hearing your discoveries as you cruise your boat.
Fair winds.

Don S/V ILLusion · Jan 7, 2022

Not to unnecessarily add to your list but as a previous 40.5 owner, the first two things I'd add are

Check the rudder post bearing for play and replace if loose, and

Check the holding tank which originally was aluminum. If it hasn't already been replaced, plan on it.

sail sfbay · Jan 7, 2022

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your new sailboat!!

Bring on the questions!!

Rjm st.petersburg · Jan 8, 2022

I just had most of my electronics changed out yesterday. I already had the Axiom 9, was able to reuse the rudder reference, speed transducer, wind transducer, and the sail drive. I went with the EV400, i50 tridata, and i60 wind. My rudder reference was under the cockpit floor, and the sail drive was behind the ceiling panel port side in the aft cabin.

smokey73 · Jan 8, 2022

If its not already done, be prepared early on to replace the waste tank. Triple M plastics in Maine makes an exact replacement tank. Other's may also.

The fuel tank is also something you should keep a close eye on. The original manufacturer is Ezell in Floriday (should be a label on the top of your tank) and they can make a replacement (with thicker aluminum) so you keep the full fuel capacity. You can also buy replacement tanks from others but you may lose some capacity since the original is an odd shape.

What do you have for an autopilot drive right now? The 40.5 was built to accept a "rotary" drive. Advantages and disadvantages to rotary vs linear drive. The main advantage is ease of installation since its already built to use rotary drive. Look for posts from Rich Stidger on Owner Mods on this forum for the 40.5.

Check the bottom drain in your anchor well. Look for my posts on repair if your's is leaking. To see if its leaking, remove the fwd cabin cusions and the two panels on the bed platform and look up there as far as you can. Have someone put a hose in the anchor well and see if water is leaking for looking for leaks that you can see running down from the port side up under the anchor locker. Leaks here aren't catastrophic but it will put water in your bilge when you are on a port tack, it rains, and if you take heavy waves that submerge the clamshell on the port side.

Feel free to reach out to this forum - people here are very helpful. You can get an occasional '"snarky reply" but just ignore and ignore them. There is no such thing as a "dumb question" although in retrospect you may later ask yourself "why did I ask that dumb question." Also, take a look at previous posts from Mainesail and visit his site at "Compass Marine" It will be your go to site for all things electrical and well beyond just electrical things. Consider a donation to the site. Explore this site and you'll see why.

Rick D · Jan 8, 2022

Good list. I won't pile on. As to the anchor windlass, suggest you look over another 40.5 to see what they have for a factory installed windlass and then set about getting something similar. BTW, when you do so, I'd suggest an up/down feature. As for the stove, in SoCal, we are fortunate to have a ready supply of CNG, so we are in no hurry to change out to LPG. I'd suggest you do so if CNG isn't available. FWIW, we purchased an induction cooktop that fits right on the stove for use when we are connected to shorepower to save on the CNG. Very happy with that. I converted all my lights to LED including the navigation lights (Dr. LED) a decade ago and am happy with the results. I used to do a lot of overnight sails during races and the saving in amp hours was huge. I would stick with a rotary drive for the AP. We have had her for 23 years and she lives and sails wonderfully. (So much for not piling on....)

artboas · Jan 8, 2022

Rick D said:
Good list. I won't pile on. As to the anchor windlass, suggest you look over another 40.5 to see what they have for a factory installed windlass and then set about getting something similar. BTW, when you do so, I'd suggest an up/down feature. As for the stove, in SoCal, we are fortunate to have a ready supply of CNG, so we are in no hurry to change out to LPG. I'd suggest you do so if CNG isn't available. FWIW, we purchased an induction cooktop that fits right on the stove for use when we are connected to shorepower to save on the CNG. Very happy with that. I converted all my lights to LED including the navigation lights (Dr. LED) a decade ago and am happy with the results. I used to do a lot of overnight sails during races and the saving in amp hours was huge. I would stick with a rotary drive for the AP. We have had her for 23 years and she lives and sails wonderfully. (So much for not piling on....)

Hi
I had a 40.5, and know every inch of it
The way to install a windlass is using the SL anchorman vertical in a horizontal mode. This was the factory install, but I did it myself.
Yes, Hunter graciously installed 2 large cables which feed up to the bow. But, there are connection issues. I can assist.
Autopilot.
The only way Is to instal a rotary drive under the ice chest. It was designed into the boat, but there are tricks to this.
Once again, happy to help
The aluminum holding tank has to go, unless you like the odour of a leaking tank. (I didn’t)
Triple M has you covered
The 40.5 was one of Hunter’s best designs. You are very lucky.. getting one in good shape is a great find
Very fast upwind.
Good luck

Rich Stidger · Jan 8, 2022

Hunter did install the 2/0 cables to the bow from the engine compartment. Easily $100+ worth of cable. Hunter intended the windlass to be run from the starting battery and they GROUNDED the negative cable in the engine compartment. If you are going the use the Simpson Lawrence Anchorman (or any windlass with 2-wire up/down switching), YOU MUST LIFT THE BLACK CABLE OFF OF THE ENGINE GROUND so the polarity can be reversed.
I added additional cable to use the house batteries for the windlass power.
Art Boas is correct with the SL Anchorman model being the factory unit, but having had numerous issues with that model I would look to another manufacturer. BTW, SL was bought out by Lewmar in the early 2000's. So I doubt that you can still buy a SL Anchorman.
I have numerous pictures and details on the Anchorman installation. Contact me if you are interested.
Congrats on your new boat. It sails very nicely and will charge to windward.

baycloud · Jan 10, 2022

Welcome! I am also new to this forum having just bought a 40.5 a few months ago. The people here have really helped me out.

FYI I have never read this but you can install a linear below decks auto pilot. I have one. Don't know how the original owner did it but at some point this year I will get pix.

baycloud · Jan 11, 2022

I don't have the pix of the full setup but here's hydraulic pump in the port lazarette. Please excuse how dirty it is; haven't had time to get every square inch to my standards yet since it's a day's drive away

artboas · Jan 11, 2022

Rich Stidger said:
Hunter did install the 2/0 cables to the bow from the engine compartment. Easily $100+ worth of cable. Hunter intended the windlass to be run from the starting battery and they GROUNDED the negative cable in the engine compartment. If you are going the use the Simpson Lawrence Anchorman (or any windlass with 2-wire up/down switching), YOU MUST LIFT THE BLACK CABLE OFF OF THE ENGINE GROUND so the polarity can be reversed.
I added additional cable to use the house batteries for the windlass power.
Art Boas is correct with the SL Anchorman model being the factory unit, but having had numerous issues with that model I would look to another manufacturer. BTW, SL was bought out by Lewmar in the early 2000's. So I doubt that you can still buy a SL Anchorman.
I have numerous pictures and details on the Anchorman installation. Contact me if you are interested.
Congrats on your new boat. It sails very nicely and will charge to windward.

Sorry, but you are wrong.
The way that windlasses work is there is a DPDT contactor that switches polarity right at the windlass. All built in windlasses with up /down switches work this way,
The relay is about $80

artboas · Jan 11, 2022

baycloud said:
Welcome! I am also new to this forum having just bought a 40.5 a few months ago. The people here have really helped me out.

FYI I have never read this but you can install a linear below decks auto pilot. I have one. Don't know how the original owner did it but at some point this year I will get pix.

Installing a linear drive is a huge amount of unnecessary work . Hunter specifically designed in a very easy autopilot system using a rotary drive under the ice box. The 1/2” mounting bolts are there for the platform
To install a rotary drive is realistically 1/4 the effort of a linear ram, and much more efficient as it’s turning the wheel instead of the huge force on the rudder.
But, it’s your boat ….

smokey73 · Jan 11, 2022

@SV Maverick Welcome to the forum. If you decide to switch from the CNG to something else I'd like to have "dibs" on your old CNG tank. I come up on occasion from Beaufort SC to Maryland (Boat School) by car and could stop by and pick it up.

I would go to LP rather than induction. Like was said before, induction, or for that matter, any electric option will require you to either have an AC Generator for use when away from shore or allow you to only use it when plugged into shore power.

With the "Maverick" you wouldn't by chance be a pilot would you?

New to us Hunter 40.5

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

.

Attachments

.

.

.

.

.

.

.