New purchase and new sailor
- Thread starter jtuner119
- Start date
my bilge keeps filling with water and i found out that the head is overflowing. i tap the holding tank and its full of water. i check the deck fill and the cap has a hole on it and its loose. how can i empty out my holding tank? any suggestions?
JT,
What you have my son is commonly known as a, "project boat".
My 1980 boat was a project boat also. It took me over two years to bring it up to a condition I was happy with.
The good news is that when getting to this point, you will have gained much in the way of knowledge. The downside is, that you pay-as-you-go related to costs & hours of work. But, if the major items are fixable/repairable, it can be worth the effort.
I had a sick looking 5411 also but, it was easy to get working. Your alternator looks suspect but, don't judge a book by its cover. there are ways to check this, but I would clean the connections first. If it will not start, I would take it to a rebuild center & have them check it. Don't go marine, as your alternator doesn't know if it's in a boat or a car. They deal with the same corrosion problems. But, the price will be better.
As for the engine, I would first check the oil for a milky residue. This will tell you there is water in the oil. Next, I would clean all electrical connections. I use a 3M scrubber pad for cleaning these. Check the condition of your Hurst tranny housing/drain plug & check fluid level & color. If not a pretty red, it may need to be changed. You may also want to purchase an electrical corrosion block spray for these before & after tightening.
Check the linkage & wiring harness. Pop the engine control off & check the instruments & wiring/connectors. I would clean these also. Pop off the electrical panel & check for the same. Check all fuses also. You may want to also look & lube your shifter & throttle levers.
As you go thru your projects/repairs, start building an organized file folder of parts, engine etc. manuals, schematics etc. for quick reference. When the engine is up & running, you can always clean it up afterwards.
And most importantly, remember on this site, there are NO dumb questions, only maybe some answers. The guys here are pretty on the ball from the experience they have leaned along the way & can pass some "work smart, not hard" advice.
Remember, knowledge is POWER so, have at pal..........good hunting.
CR
What you have my son is commonly known as a, "project boat".
My 1980 boat was a project boat also. It took me over two years to bring it up to a condition I was happy with.
The good news is that when getting to this point, you will have gained much in the way of knowledge. The downside is, that you pay-as-you-go related to costs & hours of work. But, if the major items are fixable/repairable, it can be worth the effort.
I had a sick looking 5411 also but, it was easy to get working. Your alternator looks suspect but, don't judge a book by its cover. there are ways to check this, but I would clean the connections first. If it will not start, I would take it to a rebuild center & have them check it. Don't go marine, as your alternator doesn't know if it's in a boat or a car. They deal with the same corrosion problems. But, the price will be better.
As for the engine, I would first check the oil for a milky residue. This will tell you there is water in the oil. Next, I would clean all electrical connections. I use a 3M scrubber pad for cleaning these. Check the condition of your Hurst tranny housing/drain plug & check fluid level & color. If not a pretty red, it may need to be changed. You may also want to purchase an electrical corrosion block spray for these before & after tightening.
Check the linkage & wiring harness. Pop the engine control off & check the instruments & wiring/connectors. I would clean these also. Pop off the electrical panel & check for the same. Check all fuses also. You may want to also look & lube your shifter & throttle levers.
As you go thru your projects/repairs, start building an organized file folder of parts, engine etc. manuals, schematics etc. for quick reference. When the engine is up & running, you can always clean it up afterwards.
And most importantly, remember on this site, there are NO dumb questions, only maybe some answers. The guys here are pretty on the ball from the experience they have leaned along the way & can pass some "work smart, not hard" advice.
Remember, knowledge is POWER so, have at pal..........good hunting.
CR
Ask your yard, ours has a cart they use to vac out hauled boats. If just rainwater you can discharge it overboard.
On out 78 we replaced everything in our system besides the porcelain bowl.
http://svknotaclew.wordpress.com/2014/02/24/thar-she-blows/
JTuner,
Remember that even if it was rainwater collecting into the holding tank, it has mixed with residual raw sewage & should not be pumped over board, as it is technically illegal & I doubt your marina will let you, as they can be fined & you can for illegal discharge. I believe that you have to be more then 25 miles offshore before you can pump overboard. Your marina, if it is a decent size, should have a pump out station, but they are usually located at the dock, where you motor the boat over & then pump out via suction vacuum. It only costs a few bucks. Looking at your motor pics, you have the typical corrosion of a 30+ year old 5411. They are tuff lil' engines. But your raw water intake & exhaust hoses look to be original, & after 30+ years of wear can & will crack & leak. If they leak when unattended they can & will sink your boat. After getting the engine running, focus on getting your boat as water tight as possible. This starts by replacing any old hoses & possibly defective thru hull fittings. Do your valves handles look blue? If so, these are original 1970's era gate valves that were meant to only be used in houses, not boats. If they leak in a house, they can cause a flood, but in a boat they cause a sinking. Replace them during a haul out with Marelon plastic or Apollo bronze valves. Buy yourself a set of emergency wooden tapered plugs & emergency epoxy so that you have a way to control a leak if it happens. They also sell self amalgamating tape that can be wrapped around a pipe leak & will stop it temporarily. But the best way to stop a leak is to prevent it from occurring in the first place. Do your steel band clamps look rusty at your pipe filltings? If so, replace them.
But as far as the 5411, it will last for decades, as long as you keep the oil topped off full, & keep your water pump impeller in good shape, replace it annually to provide good water flow & cooling. You may notice that you do not get water out of the exhaust for several minutes after start up. This is because the 5411 thermostat keeps the water cooling loop closed for quicker engine warm up. I personally don't like this, as I want to verify water flow out the stern before sailing off. So I leave the thermo loop in the open position. There is a sea cock that shuts the water off to the thermo controlled loop. Your engine will also produce some steam out the exhaust. This is a normal characteristic of this raw water cooled motor. Send me your e-mail & I will forward you a copy of the 5411 engine repair & maintenance manuals. Cheers.
Remember that even if it was rainwater collecting into the holding tank, it has mixed with residual raw sewage & should not be pumped over board, as it is technically illegal & I doubt your marina will let you, as they can be fined & you can for illegal discharge. I believe that you have to be more then 25 miles offshore before you can pump overboard. Your marina, if it is a decent size, should have a pump out station, but they are usually located at the dock, where you motor the boat over & then pump out via suction vacuum. It only costs a few bucks. Looking at your motor pics, you have the typical corrosion of a 30+ year old 5411. They are tuff lil' engines. But your raw water intake & exhaust hoses look to be original, & after 30+ years of wear can & will crack & leak. If they leak when unattended they can & will sink your boat. After getting the engine running, focus on getting your boat as water tight as possible. This starts by replacing any old hoses & possibly defective thru hull fittings. Do your valves handles look blue? If so, these are original 1970's era gate valves that were meant to only be used in houses, not boats. If they leak in a house, they can cause a flood, but in a boat they cause a sinking. Replace them during a haul out with Marelon plastic or Apollo bronze valves. Buy yourself a set of emergency wooden tapered plugs & emergency epoxy so that you have a way to control a leak if it happens. They also sell self amalgamating tape that can be wrapped around a pipe leak & will stop it temporarily. But the best way to stop a leak is to prevent it from occurring in the first place. Do your steel band clamps look rusty at your pipe filltings? If so, replace them.
But as far as the 5411, it will last for decades, as long as you keep the oil topped off full, & keep your water pump impeller in good shape, replace it annually to provide good water flow & cooling. You may notice that you do not get water out of the exhaust for several minutes after start up. This is because the 5411 thermostat keeps the water cooling loop closed for quicker engine warm up. I personally don't like this, as I want to verify water flow out the stern before sailing off. So I leave the thermo loop in the open position. There is a sea cock that shuts the water off to the thermo controlled loop. Your engine will also produce some steam out the exhaust. This is a normal characteristic of this raw water cooled motor. Send me your e-mail & I will forward you a copy of the 5411 engine repair & maintenance manuals. Cheers.
JT,
What you are finding is typical man. It just takes elbow grease.
You would have been shocked at seeing my boat when I bought it.
I actually had stalactite-shaped mold growing off my head liner.
I did notice the nice(?) darkened teak cabinets & fiddle rails.
This is why I don't use oil on my teak. It captures dirt & darkens.
When you get around to the teak, I can offer some suggestions for cleaning it.
My bi-parting door to the head, sits collecting dust in my garage. In it's place, I have a nice solid colored shower-type curtain instead. I noticed people getting sea-sick with the door closed, especially in warm weather. Even the fan didn't help much.
I also covered the too-much wood on walls of my shower. I used a white covering approved for sanitary rooms, a nice shine pebbly white that resists mildew. The only wood I have is the cabinet & counter rail, varnished. With this setup, I sit on the john close the curtain & shower. it's bright & does not have a enclosed feel to it. When finished & simply rinse the walls, head & counter & towel dry.
CR
What you are finding is typical man. It just takes elbow grease.
You would have been shocked at seeing my boat when I bought it.
I actually had stalactite-shaped mold growing off my head liner.
I did notice the nice(?) darkened teak cabinets & fiddle rails.
This is why I don't use oil on my teak. It captures dirt & darkens.
When you get around to the teak, I can offer some suggestions for cleaning it.
My bi-parting door to the head, sits collecting dust in my garage. In it's place, I have a nice solid colored shower-type curtain instead. I noticed people getting sea-sick with the door closed, especially in warm weather. Even the fan didn't help much.
I also covered the too-much wood on walls of my shower. I used a white covering approved for sanitary rooms, a nice shine pebbly white that resists mildew. The only wood I have is the cabinet & counter rail, varnished. With this setup, I sit on the john close the curtain & shower. it's bright & does not have a enclosed feel to it. When finished & simply rinse the walls, head & counter & towel dry.
CR
She's a little dirty but not too bad. I found some hornets nests that seem to have been long abandoned as well. Lol. I also took the batteries out and had them tested. Both were bad, as suspected. But I made the mistake of selling them to the parts store for $10 credit. I found out that there is an $18 core charge per battery. The associate however offered not to charge me the core charge if I bought 2 batteries that day. I didn't however. I'm still hoping to find batteries on the cheap from a friend.
I planned on removing the starter but opted to wait for a battery and attempt to start the engine the way it is first.
I planned on removing the starter but opted to wait for a battery and attempt to start the engine the way it is first.
regards bottom paint, its integrity degrades if the boat doesn't go back in the water quickly,
according to my mech and boat yard. I am speaking for the southern California water, weather, etc. You may get other opinions but the Factory Reps at the show should help immensely. Sometimes the applicators and reps will contradict each other so get several opinions. Good luck, it looks like this post is giving you a lot of help. YOU make the final, informed decision, though.
according to my mech and boat yard. I am speaking for the southern California water, weather, etc. You may get other opinions but the Factory Reps at the show should help immensely. Sometimes the applicators and reps will contradict each other so get several opinions. Good luck, it looks like this post is giving you a lot of help. YOU make the final, informed decision, though.
I would love to hear your recommendations for cleaning, polishing teak. I see your frequent posts and like them, thanks!
Thanks rgarrison. I am waiting to repaint the boat until she is ready to launch for the reason that you just mentioned. As for the suggestions in cleaning.... I find that it all comes down to elbow grease. It doesn't matter what product I recommend, persistence is the key. This is also my first boat so I don't have much to recommend. Lol. Mineral spirits and denatured alcohol are what I've been recommended for cleaning in general.
Orange oil is great for grease removal. Also works as a paint remover for getting up drips and getting paint off your hands. Non toxic.
I think I found the solution to emptying out my holding tank. I was recommended to someone that has a mobile pump out service.
The other day, I mentioned I got the batteries and I was going to connect them in. Well I have 3 positive leads that I'm not quite sure where they go. I'm pretty sure that one goes to the engine( I'm guessing the starter ), one goes to the bilge pump and the third... I don't know. Hopefully I can get to the marina today and post some pics up.
The other day, I mentioned I got the batteries and I was going to connect them in. Well I have 3 positive leads that I'm not quite sure where they go. I'm pretty sure that one goes to the engine( I'm guessing the starter ), one goes to the bilge pump and the third... I don't know. Hopefully I can get to the marina today and post some pics up.
J
You have to trace all wires. You never know what a previous owner has done. I suggest you join the Catalina 30 Yahoo group and check out and join the Catalina 30 International Assoc. I'm not sure what engine you have but there are manuals posted on this site along with the 2 groups I recommended. The original set up was two batteries with the #4 wires going to the battery switch. Didn't you see how they were wired when you removed the old batteries?
Wish you luck. As others have said, this is the beginning of your education. I know I was quite overwhelmed when I first started.
You have to trace all wires. You never know what a previous owner has done. I suggest you join the Catalina 30 Yahoo group and check out and join the Catalina 30 International Assoc. I'm not sure what engine you have but there are manuals posted on this site along with the 2 groups I recommended. The original set up was two batteries with the #4 wires going to the battery switch. Didn't you see how they were wired when you removed the old batteries?
Wish you luck. As others have said, this is the beginning of your education. I know I was quite overwhelmed when I first started.
The batteries were wired in sequence to act as one total. I've rewired them so that they are 2 separate banks, one dedicated as the house load and the other for the engine. However there were 3 hot wires that were already existing. There is 1 that I'm not quite sure to where it goes. Im in contact with the previous owner and unfortunately he didn't mark any of the cables but he knows what they are for. It wasn't or is not really a problem. Just updating the thread. And I mentioned before that I have the universal atomic diesel 5411 engine. Thanks for your suggestions.
me new too...
I got my 30TM in April of last year. #999 Loyal had been sitting at Crowleys Yacht Yard in Chicago for at least 7 years outside not covered, winter and summer. She had filled with water from rain and snow up to the motor due to the bilge pump blowing a fuse or batteries run down. When they decided to sell her they pumped her out and put her on ebay.
I live in Colorado, have 2 kids and 3 grandkids in Chicago and happened to see her at the yard while visiting a nearby resturant. Although I had never been on a sailboat let alone sail one to make a long story short I made one bid and ended up owning her.
I think the yachtyard peaple were as shocked as I was so they said I could leave it there and work on her and if I could get her seaworthy they would put her in the water and let her sit at their dock for a few days to see if she stayed afloat then help me get get her to a marina.
I worked on her for 30 days. painting teak, cleaning, going thru all the systems, rigging, checking everything the guys at the yard said to check and 25 days later we put her in the water. She was perfect...n leaks no nothing.
Got some new friends help sail it 15 miles to 31st harbor and lived on her all summer. Sailing nearly everyday.
Back home in Colorado now, I teach skiing in the winter. Loyals back at Crowley's tucked in for the winter and I am planning what I need to do to be ready for next year on the Big lake. I'd like to head up the east shore in the spring, gunkholeing up to Mackinak and explore northern Michigan. Then who knows. Maybe thru the Great Lakes IfAnybody wants to crew and knows how to fly a spinniker come on along..:dance: Have to thank the crew at Crowleys for all their advice and encouragement.......Bill
I got my 30TM in April of last year. #999 Loyal had been sitting at Crowleys Yacht Yard in Chicago for at least 7 years outside not covered, winter and summer. She had filled with water from rain and snow up to the motor due to the bilge pump blowing a fuse or batteries run down. When they decided to sell her they pumped her out and put her on ebay.
I live in Colorado, have 2 kids and 3 grandkids in Chicago and happened to see her at the yard while visiting a nearby resturant. Although I had never been on a sailboat let alone sail one to make a long story short I made one bid and ended up owning her.
I think the yachtyard peaple were as shocked as I was so they said I could leave it there and work on her and if I could get her seaworthy they would put her in the water and let her sit at their dock for a few days to see if she stayed afloat then help me get get her to a marina.
I worked on her for 30 days. painting teak, cleaning, going thru all the systems, rigging, checking everything the guys at the yard said to check and 25 days later we put her in the water. She was perfect...n leaks no nothing.
Got some new friends help sail it 15 miles to 31st harbor and lived on her all summer. Sailing nearly everyday.
Back home in Colorado now, I teach skiing in the winter. Loyals back at Crowley's tucked in for the winter and I am planning what I need to do to be ready for next year on the Big lake. I'd like to head up the east shore in the spring, gunkholeing up to Mackinak and explore northern Michigan. Then who knows. Maybe thru the Great Lakes IfAnybody wants to crew and knows how to fly a spinniker come on along..:dance: Have to thank the crew at Crowleys for all their advice and encouragement.......Bill
