New oday 19 owner

Aug 31, 2015
43
Oday 19 Mystic, ct
Thought I would introduce myself. I bought an O'Day 19 (not mariner) over the summer. It is my first boat and I barely know what I am doing. I have sailed about 6 times and love it. I want to use this boat as a project to "learn it all".

Right now I am thinking bottom paint and some other cosmetic stuff in the spring. I am not afraid of projects as I have raced dirt bikes for 22 years so I am used to the work and patience.

I do have some rigging confusion but I learn more each time out.

Seems like limited information on this boat but I am spending the winter reading and collecting info. Just buttoned her up for the season.

I plan to sail out of Mystic, CT and Hingham, MA.

Oh I also got to race twice on an impulse 26 this summer. It will be in my future as well!!

Thanks
 

Attachments

Dec 27, 2012
587
Precision Precision 28 St Augustine
Congratulations and welcome.

I seem to learn something every time I go out. Thats what I enjoy the most about sailing. Lots of knowledgable people on this site that are willing to help.

I hope your winter isn't as harsh as the last. Hoping spring comes quickly.
 
Jan 1, 2006
7,039
Slickcraft 26 Sailfish
If you are trailering it to use it (Known as "Dry Sailing" - a counterintuitive term), don't bother with anti-fouling paint. Even if you keep it in the water for short periods of time, don't bother about that. Spend your time and money on projects which will make sailing more fun. But if you want a smoother bottom for better performance, especially in light air, then by all means break out the sander...
 
Jan 22, 2008
506
Catalina 310 278 Lyndeborough NH
There are two versions of the O'Day 19 in addition to the O'Day 192.

• The first years (1978 to 1980-1/2) had a taller mast (the measurements listed most often). It is rated (D-PN) almost as fast as the Rhodes 19.

• In mid-1980 the mast was shortened almost 3 feet. The sail measurements resemble the O'Day 192.
Rudy at D&R Marine confirmed the two versions to me.

ODAY 19 MK1 (HIN C) MK I 1978 to 1980-1/2
Running Rigging
I=22.00'
J=7.08'
P=24.50'
E=8.25'

LOA: 19'
weight: 1350 lbs
ballast: 300 lbs (centerboard 52 lbs)

mast
height:
29.33’
length: 26.33’
cross section: 3.5” x 2.0”

boom
length:
8.5' positioned 24" above mast base.
cross section: 2.75” x 1.75”
==============
ODAY 19 MK2 (HIN C) MK II 1980-1/2 to 1985
Running Rigging
I=22.00' (19.67')
J=7.08' (8.25')
P=24.50' (21.50')
E=8.25' (8.00')

LOA: 19' (19.00')
weight: 1350 lbs
ballast: 300 lbs
mast
height:
length:
23.5' - stays at 21.00'
boom
length:
8.5' positioned 24" above mast base.
 
Jan 22, 2008
506
Catalina 310 278 Lyndeborough NH
I trailer sail my O'Day 19 but also have a Capri 22 moored in Winthrop.

Let me know when you will be in the Hingham area. Love to have the two O'Day 19s sail together!
 
Aug 31, 2015
43
Oday 19 Mystic, ct
Thanks for the replies!!

It is a 79. I would love to see how another is rigged and how you step the mast. Mine does have mini stays and the previous owner said he stepped it solo but I don't have a gin pole. Not sure.

I am also not setting the boomvang and out haul correctly. I will learn but it would be cool to have someone walk me through it. It would be very cool to go out to Hingham with another 19! I am up for it.

Here is a pic of my hull - and the reason I would like to recoat. Let me know your opinion.

Thanks again!
 

Attachments

Jun 2, 2004
1,923
Oday Day Sailer Wareham, MA
Bend mainsail on.jpg Block-Action Outhaul_ODAY.jpg boom-vang_DS.jpg Boom Vang rigging if you have the original optional one. Also rigging of outhaul if you have the "Block-Action outhaul" that was optional. I'll also post below the owners manual explanation for the stock outhaul.
Not sure that scan of the manual is clear, so:
To Hoist or Raise Mainsail:
To raise the mainsail insert battens and then starting near the gooseneck, feed the foot of the sail, clew first, into the slot on the boom. The pin in the gooseneck slips through the tack of the sail to hold it in place. (See figure 6) Draw the foot of the sail out along the boom until the foot is tight. The Outhaul line should be attached to the clew of the sail, then passed through the hole in fitting on end of boom, then cleated on boom cleat which is located approximately 2/3's of the way up on the starboard side of the boom. The cleat is located here to permit the crew to change the tension on the foot of the sail while sailing. A "block-action" Outhaul is a help here as it greatly reduces the friction on the Outhaul line. Next, fasten the main halyard to the head of the mainsail and feed the luff slides of the sail into the mast slot cutout. Hoist the sail fully and cleat it.
 
Jan 22, 2008
506
Catalina 310 278 Lyndeborough NH
Thanks for the replies!!

It is a 79. I would love to see how another is rigged and how you step the mast. Mine does have mini stays and the previous owner said he stepped it solo but I don't have a gin pole. Not sure.

I am also not setting the boomvang and out haul correctly. I will learn but it would be cool to have someone walk me through it. It would be very cool to go out to Hingham with another 19! I am up for it.

Here is a pic of my hull - and the reason I would like to recoat. Let me know your opinion.

Thanks again!
The photos show a very rough bottom!

My O'Day 19 came that way, too. It was my first "real" boat (had requisite portable toilet and a semblance of privacy) after a season on a Hobie Cat 14.

In it's previous life, it was moored in the Hudson River and had several layers of ablative antifouling bottom coat that had seen better days. It was chalky and rubbed off everywhere. The O'Day decals were cracked and pealing off. Ultimately, I removed all of it to the bare white gelcoat. The bottom had several deep scratches (and a few repairs) so I decided to put on a good West Systems epoxy barrier coat (with black carbon additive) and fully painted the topsides with Interlux 2-part Perfection (I had "Matterhorn White" on hand, but "Cream" would have been much closer to the original O'Day color).

Redoing the bottom is a very good thing to do especially over the winter. Boat stands would be nice to have since it is much easier to scrape all the paint off when it is not on a trailer. But you can put blocks under the stern (after cleaning that end off) — this link shows you the concept. I have used it with larger boats. It is a good opportunity to inspect the centerboard and its hardware (safety maintenance).

[

These photos were taken just after painting while I was putting the hardware back on. The windows (deadlights for the technical term obsessed) were not yet on. The jib traveler and side shroud chainplates are in their proper positions (mine were previously "modified" after an old undisclosed mast accident). I had a pair of swivel-base cam cleats and am using them for the jib sheets.

I trailer-sail this boat. It comes out of the water after no more than a few days so I don't bother with an anti-fouling paint.

Your 1979 MK1 mast is about 3 feet longer than my 1983 MK2 mast. It should have two pairs of shrouds — one pair that goes to the top, another shorter pair going near the spreaders. There is one forestay and one backstay.

I attach (keep attached) the shrouds and backstay before lifting the mast. The mast needs to be supported at the stern to be higher than the mast mounting plate on the cabin top so you can attach the mast foot. With the companionway closed, I simply walk the mast up like I would an extension ladder. I have used the mainsheet blocks attached to the jib halyard and stem fitting, but I usually simply use the jib halyard to support the mast if I need to pause. Once the mast is about 60° up, the side shrouds begin to support it laterally.

IMG_0101.jpg


IMG_0108.jpg


IMG_0105.jpg


IMG_0104.jpg
 
Aug 31, 2015
43
Oday 19 Mystic, ct
Been traveling a ton and just getting back to this.
This is really awesome information. Exactly what I needed. Thank you all for the help.

I am starting to scope my winter project of a new hatch door. Not sure what wood to use or what was original - maybe teak?

Thanks again
 
Jan 22, 2008
506
Catalina 310 278 Lyndeborough NH
My O'Day 19 has a simple pair of plywood panels cut the proper size for the companion way. A single panel will work too. You don't need to go fancy at first, just functional.
 
Aug 31, 2015
43
Oday 19 Mystic, ct
Thanks,
I assume it matters what breed of wood?

I also have some leftover cedar that I could ship lap or toung and groove together.

I defiantly don't need fancy. Just maybe not ugly ;)
 
Jan 22, 2008
506
Catalina 310 278 Lyndeborough NH
Thanks,
I assume it matters what breed of wood?
I also have some leftover cedar that I could ship lap or toung and groove together.
I defiantly don't need fancy. Just maybe not ugly ;)
By "new hatch door" I assume you are talking about the companionway door.

My companionway door is made of a trapezoidal piece of 1/2" (or 3/8") exterior plywood cut in two pieces for easier storing. A single piece works well for my Capri 22.

You can go crazy with the woodworking if you want, but just don't forget the really functional things such as the rigging, rudder, and centerboard!

D&R Marine has ready made hatch boards for $150.
D&R Marine:
O'day 19 Hatch Boards.
Teak Veneer Plywood - 1/2" thickness - 2 pc set! Price: $150.00
 
Aug 31, 2015
43
Oday 19 Mystic, ct
Yes companionway. My bad. Still learning the lingo.

I was more wondering what species of wood I should use.

I agree. I want everything to be right before pretty!
 
Jun 2, 2004
1,923
Oday Day Sailer Wareham, MA
I think marine grade or exterior grade plywood (mahogany, teak) would be more stable than cedar. I seem to recall that cedar swells pretty good if it gets wet and so it might jam in the slots unless that swelling was planned for. I could be wrong on that, but I do know for a fact that the PACEMAKER powerboats that were cedar planked could not be left out of the water too long or their planking would shrink and open up all the seams.
Rudy uses Teak-faced marine plywood for the companionway slides (aka duck boards, wash boards, Hatch Boards) that he makes, as did O'DAY originally. Solid teak can be used but $$$$
I can tell you that the plywood that Rudy uses is durable, I purchased a set of cuddy panels for my DS II several years ago and with a fresh coat or two of varnish each year, they still look new! (cuddy panels on the DS II and DS III are basically what takes the place of the hatch boards on larger boats)
 
Aug 31, 2015
43
Oday 19 Mystic, ct
I may go plastic than wood. Acrylic etc. know it doesn't look traditional or even pretty but it seems really easy and very low maintenance.

Anyone have experience with that?

I assume straight forward - buy it, cut it, smooth the sides....
 
Nov 9, 2012
2,500
Oday 192 Lake Nockamixon
Starboard (which is ultra high molecular weight polyethylene) and plexiglass have been used for drop boards by plenty of people.

You can buy BS1088 (A/B faces) or BS6566 (B/C faces) marine rated okoume, meranti, sapele, etc. plywood in fractions of a sheet (1/4, 1/8) as desired from http://www.noahsmarine.com/index.asp

BS rated plywood is made with boilproof glue, no ply voids (supposedly,) and a higher number of plies than you can get from the typical American lumberyard "marine" fir plywood. Plus, okoume, meranti, or sapele won't check and crack like fir plywood.
 
Jan 22, 2008
506
Catalina 310 278 Lyndeborough NH
Yes companionway. My bad. Still learning the lingo.
I was more wondering what species of wood I should use.
I agree. I want everything to be right before pretty!
D&R Marine uses teak.
O'day 19 Hatch Boards. Teak Veneer Plywood - 1/2" thickness - 2 pc set! Price: $150.00
http://www.drmarine.com/products.asp?cat=139

My O'Day 19 came with a simple painted exterior (marine?) plywood (2 pieces). It has held up for the decade I have owned it and it was painted and "old" when I got it!

The two piece design is easy to remove and store. A single piece is not too large to deal with (that's how my Capri 22 is).