Need source for shore power cord
- Thread starter Dr. D
- Start date
Concur. That's why I said that the size of the wire between the receptacle and the 32A breaker matters. If that's 10AWG then I agree the receptacle shouldn't be 50A. But if that one short length is 6AWG then everything is fine (or at least as fine as it would be with a 30A receptacle).
Realistically I agree; but, technically the stated maximum current for 10 AWG is 60A.
https://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Marine-Wire-Size-And-Ampacity
According to this Blue Sea System Circuit Wizard there would be a 50% drop in voltage (IR drop).
http://circuitwizard.bluesea.com/
@Hello Below not even technically........ 10 AWG is only rated for 30 amps, the table you refer to are for demonstrating % voltage drop in DC circuits.
Check the assumptions on that chart - it assumes 105C temperature rated insulation, and that the conductors are not bundled.
Brain in neutral. @DayDreamer41 you are correct. I was working on DC cable sizing at the time and did not make the conversion from DC to AC.
@Dr. D I have read this post cover to cover, searched the web over looking for cord options to fit your request and found nothing that would work directly, so I have come to the conclusion that you can only go a few ways
1. Purchase 2 x 50A F to 30A M adapters and 2 x 30A x 25' standard cable sets (not the greatest solution but will work)
2. Change out the 2-50A M receptacles on the boat with standard 30A M receptacles and purchase 2 x 30A x 25' standard cord sets (Favorable but not the best given today's connection options)
3. Change out the 2-50A M receptacles on the boat with 2 Smart plug 30A M receptacles and purchase 2 x 30A x 25' cord sets with the standard 30A twist lock M to Smart plug F. (Best solution by today's standards)
Other suggestions you should have handy
1. 30A M twist lock to standard 20A F x 18" long (handy to have at the dock for running a standard extension cord)
2. 20A M to 30A F x 18" long (handy for when the boats on the hard and you want to charge the batteries)
3. 50A to 2 x 30A twist lock x 18" long (for those marina's that only have 50A outlets or the 30A outlets aren't any good)
Good luck Dr. D with your adventure, you know what BOAT stands for right ......... Break Out Another Thousand.......
Mark
1. Purchase 2 x 50A F to 30A M adapters and 2 x 30A x 25' standard cable sets (not the greatest solution but will work)
2. Change out the 2-50A M receptacles on the boat with standard 30A M receptacles and purchase 2 x 30A x 25' standard cord sets (Favorable but not the best given today's connection options)
3. Change out the 2-50A M receptacles on the boat with 2 Smart plug 30A M receptacles and purchase 2 x 30A x 25' cord sets with the standard 30A twist lock M to Smart plug F. (Best solution by today's standards)
Other suggestions you should have handy
1. 30A M twist lock to standard 20A F x 18" long (handy to have at the dock for running a standard extension cord)
2. 20A M to 30A F x 18" long (handy for when the boats on the hard and you want to charge the batteries)
3. 50A to 2 x 30A twist lock x 18" long (for those marina's that only have 50A outlets or the 30A outlets aren't any good)
Good luck Dr. D with your adventure, you know what BOAT stands for right ......... Break Out Another Thousand.......
Mark
The amp capacity of AWG 10 wire varies with several variables, including wire length, number of conductors in a given conduit & insulation temperature rating. Many different tables & charts exist that give conflicting ratings.
A few variations can be seen here - http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/21731.pdf
A few variations can be seen here - http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/21731.pdf
Since we had so much fun with this thread last year, it is time to relaunch it.....
First, an outstanding request: The two cables which came with the boat are 10 AWG and rated (as stamped on the cables) for 30 Amps.
Since I posted this, I changed slips. Now, I need the long cables as I dock bow in and the shore power is on the dock at the bow. But that means each time I leave the slip I need to remove the cables. Now it would be far easier to string cables along the edge of the dock so they were easy to get to from the stern. The Beneteau supplied cables aren't long enough and these 15 meter cables are the only ones they supply. No company makes cords like these.
As suggested earlier, it appears the easiest solution would be to replace the power inlets on the boat with 30 Amp inlets. I asked AYS about this. They said that would void the warranty. Once the boat is out of warranty, then the inlets will be replaced.
First, an outstanding request: The two cables which came with the boat are 10 AWG and rated (as stamped on the cables) for 30 Amps.
Since I posted this, I changed slips. Now, I need the long cables as I dock bow in and the shore power is on the dock at the bow. But that means each time I leave the slip I need to remove the cables. Now it would be far easier to string cables along the edge of the dock so they were easy to get to from the stern. The Beneteau supplied cables aren't long enough and these 15 meter cables are the only ones they supply. No company makes cords like these.
As suggested earlier, it appears the easiest solution would be to replace the power inlets on the boat with 30 Amp inlets. I asked AYS about this. They said that would void the warranty. Once the boat is out of warranty, then the inlets will be replaced.
Because our view from the stern looks out to the entrance of the creek; very enjoyable in the evening. And leaving and returning to the slip is easier.
And even more fun for 2020!
It appears I talked with the wrong person at AYS. I exchanged emails with one of the owners. He wrote that Beneteau uses those oddball plugs and inlets as they are more "robust" than standard 30 A ones. He also wrote that replacing them with SmartPlug equipment would be fine, provided a reputable technician does the work. So I will hire a professional to install them and modify my current cords.
He did refer to the inlets as 32 A inlets.
Dr D. "Reputable Technicians" are always the best idea if you are not comfortable working with electrical connections.
SmartPlug has done an exceptional job of making the project possible by boat owners. If you are a DIY boat owner. I found the install 2-3 on the DIY scale of 10. Once all the power was off, it was remove the old connection and install the new. The SmartPlug fit in to the old "Marinco" fitting hole. It was an exact fit. 20 minutes at most then a
to celebrate with friends.
The SmartPlug fit in to the old "Marinco" fitting hole. It was an exact fit. 20 minutes at most then a
+1. Did mine in the fall- after cruising season was over. Piece of cake.
Ron: I agree in theory. What drives me to hire someone is that I don't want to screw this up (always possible) and the location of the the inlets means crouching down in the cockpit locker while working on the inlets above your head. I don't think my old bones can assume that position....
Doc D, I did mine from the outside of the transom. No need inside unless there is not enough O.E.M. slack to pull the old one far enough to deal with the wire screws. I used to be at HHN, L & M docks.