MD17C rebuild

[sailcruiser]

Mark good to know. Did you determine rings were shot with the smoke? We start right up except I the cold and as it got colder we saw more gray and white smoke. I'm going to reevaluate in the Spring. Didn't have anything when we picked the boat up but did motor a lot on the trip home.

Good luck with the surgery and I hope you too enjoy your Thanksgiving. Don't push too hard after surgery it can set you back further. Don't ask how I know! :-/

SC

 

[Mark Maulden]

Ya rings were shot. The valves actually looked pretty good and the guides were within Volvo specs. BTW, there's an outfit around here that designed a glow plug kit for this engine and maybe some others. Each plug is $100 though. Not sure why so much. I haven't looked into it.

 

[sailcruiser]

Ya rings were shot. The valves actually looked pretty good and the guides were within Volvo specs. BTW, there's an outfit around here that designed a glow plug kit for this engine and maybe some others. Each plug is $100 though. Not sure why so much. I haven't looked into it.

Good to know. She didn't want to start at 35*F when we were winterizing the engine. It was a cold snap that was miserable to haul out in. Nothing like being wet to he bone in that weather pressure washing the crap off the bottom. SC

 

[Mark Maulden]

Ok... got through the foot surgery... Tossed the crutches (although no long "trips" yet). With some help, got the pistons and cylinders installed. Sat or Mon probably earliest to resume. Yeeaahhhhh! We're really missing some good winter sailing. Only 1/4 inch of rain for Dec so far and moderate temps.

 

[Mark Maulden]

some updates. pistons/cylinders/heads/manifold/valve train are all installed. Having a problem with the oil delivery pipe to the rocker arms assy for number three. It just didn't want to bend to the right position. And when you start inventing new words, it's time to back off. Another plan for tomorrow. Going to get injectors popped and assuming OK, stuff them in along with the all the fuel tubing and do valve adjust. Then do fuel system bleeding since i cannot access the injector nuts with the HX installed. will change that later....Then it's just hooking up Hx exchr and external tubing etc and starter/exhaust/alterator/ valve covers/put oil/water in engine/ hook up all misc electrical/temp sens gauge etc etc. There's also and connector strip between the cockit panel and engine hookups. Going to go through that also as rpm indicator is !!@@##$%% Maybe by the end of weekend....

 

[Bill Roosa]

Did you have to bend it to get it out?
Have you tried switching it end for end. Probably a dumb idea, unless it works!

 

[Mark Maulden]

Ya you have to straighten it to get the head and cylinder off. Easy to do with a pair of pliers. Different story going back on. I did manage to get it rebent today and hooked up. I stuck a small socket in the radius and managed some leverage with a breaker bar to the underside of cockpit sole. The socket worked great as it kept a radius. All three lines did make contact with the head though and I had to drive a SMALL wedge down (and back out) to get it separated so it won't chafe with the head(s). So, with all that, I'm down to the cooling system and electrical hookup. The last step in the bleeding process is to crank the engine while cracking the injector nuts which I cannot do when the HX is on. So, I think I'll hook up the starter with a trigger switch and run some tubes from the fuel lines to a container and crank. Then connect em and then install HX. Still recovering from foot surgery so this isn't the fastest project. Almost there!!!!

 

[Mark Maulden]

It runs!!!! I just put it all together and didn't worry about bleeding the injector lines. Just cranked a bit. A little coolant leak to keep track of but it might be condensation as I put cold tap water in. If no leaks, then I'll replace with 50/50 antifreeze. If it's a leak than I have to disassemble most of the external cooling lines to get to it. I have to change the terminal on the small wire on the starter as it's a new solenoid with a different connector. Other than that, it's smartening up the wire harness and some cleaning. Then go "motoring" and get it broken in.....

 

[Mark Maulden]

Still cranking to get it started when cold. I have an air problem in the fuel system somewhere.......

 

[Mark Maulden]

Weekend update: Pulled fuel pump out and tested it with a vacuum/pressure gauge. Nothing either way!!!! Took it apart and cleaned out the gasket seats etc and put it together. Now I have suction and pressure but it won't hold pressure when pump quits and I'm not sure if it's supposed to hold for some time or if it's OK to leak down rapidly. Might have to get a rebuild kit. Pulled the copper fuel line out. It had a cracked flange and was dented in a few places. Replacing with 5/16 hose. Bought a new flex line that goes from the input of pump to ship's fuel line. Naturally, it has all the fancy Volvo connectors. Could not find a mating connector for the ships side so I cut it off and swaged another one on. I also need a hose barb at the water separator and it evidently is a Volvo part and has metric threads so I still need to find a fitting to do that. So many little things that kill ya............

 

[Uki]

Rebuilt MD17C using lots of oil

Sailors/engineers

I got a boat that had a seized MD17C. I'm on a tight budget so went for an economy DIY rebuild. There was some rust in the bores where the rings were touching. After honing out decided to keep two cylinders as pitting was not concentric at any point and go honed so as you could barely feel it. Got one new complete cylinder liner kit. Used 3rd part rings (meant for a BMW engine) that were a compatible size (but not chromed for the top ring). Valve seats were re-cut/lapped at an engine shop; new stem seals.

Having put it back together it runs fine (occasional problems w air in fuel due to crazy fuel line arrangement - still to be fixed). HOWEVER it uses a QUART of oil in a HALF hour of idling. Have gone through about 2 gals of oil by now - so it's not going into the transmission etc. No detectable leaks - and this is a considerable volume of oil. Boat is on the hard so can not put any load on new engine. Exhaust does not feel oily nor is there any slick on the water puddle on the ground. There's some blueish smoke - no previous diesel experience so hard to judge, but does not appear to be extreme. Nothing too much coming out of the crankcase breather. Lots of experience in this thread. Am at my wits end!!??

Chris

 

[Mark Maulden]

I would start another thread. 1) you might get more responses 2) you don't hijack my thread.... That's a lot oil. If burning, you'd have the EPA on your "decks". Have you checked your bilge? I would have put the correct rings in and you didn't mention guides. Oil consumption is either leaks/valves/rings/worn liners/worn pistons. BTW, I have three honed liners I can let loose of.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Update: Installed new fuel line/fittings and rebuilt the fuel pump. Got it started today. Bleeding this engine is tough as I cannot get to the injector bolts. So, a little cranking. Engine runs very well and starts instantly after running. The acid test will be on Sunday to see if it starts cold.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Sunday: Well, the acid test flunked. Something is still wrong with the fuel pump. If you push the hand pump lever during engine rotation, you should feel the cam lobes. I don't. So, something still wrong with the pump... Or a cam issue? But, with any engine I've rebuilt, I've never had to replace a cam.....Time to consult the $85/hr guy...At least there's the option of an electric pump.

 

[Mark Maulden]

Not much to report. Got through the snow/ice that hit the PNW. Couple inches of snow around here and everyone goes beserk!!!! I still have a fuel issue where the engine loses prime. There's a diaphram on top of the strainer which regulates fuel pressure vs return pressure. The injector return line goes to the strainer and not a separate line back to the tank. Noticed the fitting that holds this on is not correct as it's two different threads. New fitting on Monday. If that doesn't do it, then we're going to hook up an outboard tank with a pump and see what that does which would eliminate or indict (sp?) boat fuel system. It's always the last place you look!!!

 

[Mark Maulden]

update: With the fitting described above (factory or ??), there was air in the strainer when the engine was bled before starting. New fitting with correct threads installed with loctite yesterday. Will re-bleed engine on Fri morning to see if air is still in strainer. Will also measure fuel pressures and finalize the question of fuel pump operation. About an hour (total) of running at the dock and it runs very well which tells me the pump is OK. Assuming things work out OK Friday, sea trial is Sat when I go out and "run" this thing.

 

[sailcruiser]

If you cant sail back to your slip or mooring, you may want to have a person able to give you a tow on standby if you don't have a commercial package. Been there and have a few t-shirts. . SC

 

[Mark Maulden]

Thanks SC, but I'm waaayyyyy ahead of ya....but it should work once it has initially started.. The only difference of going out vs dock running is power settings with risk of overheating. I have run it up pretty high at the dock. If that were to happen, I just might have to sail for awhile while it cools down.....Runs fine at dock and starts instantly when already run so I should make it back..Looking for a lot of crossed fingers!!!

 

[sailcruiser]

Glad to hear it! <fingers crossed>. SC

 

[Mark Maulden]

Good day today!! Engine was balky with first start but it was 30 deg out (and sunny). Did a three hr tour and I ran the crap out of this engine. There were hard accelerations and decelerations along with running at numerous speeds. No smoke at all. The middle cylinder runs a bit warmer but that's probably inherent of the water circulating design. Now we'll see how it starts tomorrow.