Hello all,
I have a 1985 Tartan 40 and I'm on my 3rd off season. Each year she gets a big project.
Year 1, she saw all new waste and vent plumbing (following Peggie Hall's suggestions) and a new Fresh head Toilet. A Deep, Deep cleaning, A completer bottom job, new Awlgrip Hull (Unfortunately, this did not go well and I'm now in my 3rd off season of trying to fix the 1st yard's horrible work and follow up service!), a rebuild of the centerboard, a new chartplotter and radar combo and a new, larger offset binnacle guard to hide all the wires. I also rerouted a bunch of wire out of the bilge!
Year 2, she saw all new Lewmar Ocean series hatches, 6 in all, (if anyone ever says installing new hatches is easy, never listen to their advice again!) I think Mainesail would be proud! All old holes clean and filled and all new holes plugged and counter sunk, installed with MaineSail's Butyl and through bolted. This was probably 8 weeks of 2-say weekends! Cleaning off the old silicone probably ate up 3 weekends!! She also got a good deal of the interior teak refinished with Watco Danish finish and all the opening ports re-bedded with butyl to stop them from leaking.
Year 3, this year, she is getting a new sole in the main salon. This boat has obviously been plagued with severe leaks for years. The sole had been patched in some places, replaced in the galley and was still rotting around the mast. This got real bad, real fast! Well, in ripping out the old sole, which was made up of a 1/2 inch plywood subfloor, screwed to the structure and a 1/2 inch teak & holly plywood glued down to the subfloor with epoxy, I realized that the 30 something year old, aluminum water tanks were leaking. So, Now I decided to take those out too. I also figured, while I'm at it, I'll take the settees apart and clean everything up and put everything back together fresh!
So, this leads me to the first question; My wife is always saying how dark it is down below with all the teak and comparing that to the euro production boats, which she loves, aesthetically. I'm now thinking I'd like to replace the settee fronts with a white Formica laminated marine plywood. My stumbling block at this point is, how do i cover the screws? With teak laminated plywood we use teak bungs. I have seen a system that uses PVC caps. I'm considering this but Would like to know if I should be doing something else?
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-111413-working-with-melamine
2nd question; Should I adhere the new T&H plywood to the subfloor the same way, with epoxy? or, is there a better option I should go with?
3rd question; The Port settee is a U shape and return toward the center-line. the fronts that make up the seat rest on the sub-floor and the T&H layer is cut around that box out. this adds support the fronts from both sides. I'm considering just running the new T&H all the way to the bulkheads and resting the seat fronts on top of the teak and holly. This makes the patterning really simple. both pieces would be pretty near perfect, right angle rectangles. My only reluctance is that the seat fronts would not be locked in as tight. This doesn't seem like that a bid a deal to me but, I'd like some confirmation.
4th Question; I can't seem to find a source for the seat corners. Can anyone help with that?
I have a 1985 Tartan 40 and I'm on my 3rd off season. Each year she gets a big project.
Year 1, she saw all new waste and vent plumbing (following Peggie Hall's suggestions) and a new Fresh head Toilet. A Deep, Deep cleaning, A completer bottom job, new Awlgrip Hull (Unfortunately, this did not go well and I'm now in my 3rd off season of trying to fix the 1st yard's horrible work and follow up service!), a rebuild of the centerboard, a new chartplotter and radar combo and a new, larger offset binnacle guard to hide all the wires. I also rerouted a bunch of wire out of the bilge!
Year 2, she saw all new Lewmar Ocean series hatches, 6 in all, (if anyone ever says installing new hatches is easy, never listen to their advice again!) I think Mainesail would be proud! All old holes clean and filled and all new holes plugged and counter sunk, installed with MaineSail's Butyl and through bolted. This was probably 8 weeks of 2-say weekends! Cleaning off the old silicone probably ate up 3 weekends!! She also got a good deal of the interior teak refinished with Watco Danish finish and all the opening ports re-bedded with butyl to stop them from leaking.
Year 3, this year, she is getting a new sole in the main salon. This boat has obviously been plagued with severe leaks for years. The sole had been patched in some places, replaced in the galley and was still rotting around the mast. This got real bad, real fast! Well, in ripping out the old sole, which was made up of a 1/2 inch plywood subfloor, screwed to the structure and a 1/2 inch teak & holly plywood glued down to the subfloor with epoxy, I realized that the 30 something year old, aluminum water tanks were leaking. So, Now I decided to take those out too. I also figured, while I'm at it, I'll take the settees apart and clean everything up and put everything back together fresh!
So, this leads me to the first question; My wife is always saying how dark it is down below with all the teak and comparing that to the euro production boats, which she loves, aesthetically. I'm now thinking I'd like to replace the settee fronts with a white Formica laminated marine plywood. My stumbling block at this point is, how do i cover the screws? With teak laminated plywood we use teak bungs. I have seen a system that uses PVC caps. I'm considering this but Would like to know if I should be doing something else?
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/projects/aw-extra-111413-working-with-melamine
2nd question; Should I adhere the new T&H plywood to the subfloor the same way, with epoxy? or, is there a better option I should go with?
3rd question; The Port settee is a U shape and return toward the center-line. the fronts that make up the seat rest on the sub-floor and the T&H layer is cut around that box out. this adds support the fronts from both sides. I'm considering just running the new T&H all the way to the bulkheads and resting the seat fronts on top of the teak and holly. This makes the patterning really simple. both pieces would be pretty near perfect, right angle rectangles. My only reluctance is that the seat fronts would not be locked in as tight. This doesn't seem like that a bid a deal to me but, I'd like some confirmation.
4th Question; I can't seem to find a source for the seat corners. Can anyone help with that?
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