Kenyon jiffy reefing

[BobM]

I thought that this is how the reefing should be layed out, however, upon putting in a reef this past week I felt that there was way too much belly in the sail and no real way to remove it. This is because the tension is straight down rather then back, so I obviously have something screwed up. The bail that the reefing line terminates in seems to be too far forward, but the bail on the opposite side is even further foward and is obviously for the second reef.

Needing to move the outhaul to the reef cringle seems to defeat the purpose of it being easy. Perhaps the cringles on the new main are further aft than on the original one and I need to move the bails aft.

Thoughts?

BobM

 

[Jeff D]

One Size does not fit all

I believe that you have found the problem in that the reefing cringles are in different places on sails. I don't even use the internal boom reefing and prefer to run the lines on the outside of the boom and can install all hardware to fit the sail. Not as sexy but is just as simple and you can achieve a better set in my opinion. I believe you will find this more true with aftermarket sails which may have a shelf built in.

http://www.victoriayachts.com/vicsite/jifyreef.html

Simple example above.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Let's make this esay and do-able

Just move the ss bail or loop on the port side of the boom aft to a point 45 degrees aft of the reef point cringle when it's up. Looks to be about halfway back to the end of the boom, maybe a tad more.

You're Done.

Discussion over, but please feel free to add...

 

[Ranger Paul]

Jiffy Reefing

Y'all might want to check out my solution on hunterowners.com. Drill down to Boat Info/Hunter Owners Modifications/216/Single line reefing.

 

[Hermit Scott]

Or get a block with a becket if you want to get fancy.

 

[Joe]

Put another eyestrap 5 or 6 inches further back, and use the current one for the second reef. There's just not enough backward tension when the end of the line is vertical like that.. My buddy's IP 31 has exactly the same set up and it doesn't work for diddly... no tension on the foot. I said something to him about it but not sure if he took me seriously.

 

[tommays]

I have the same system as kenyon built my mast/boom and IF your running the reef line through the reef point and back to the pulley it gives you 2:1 BUT still requires luffing the main to get the sail flat

I also run the line down to a block by the VANG which allows a MUCH better pull on the line while allowing you to stay close to the locking cam

As Joe points out the only issue can be the location of bail

 

[Roger Long]

Thoughts?

I have exactly the same system and it works great. However, I had the clew cringles on my new sails installed 4" above the reef line. The sails that came with the boat had been modified to raise the cringles about 6". This may be essential to getting the system to work well. If you can't have the cringles moved, relocating the eyestrap aft will help.

Speaking of the eyestrap, it should be located near the boom track and the line run under the boom and around so the eyestrap is relieved of some of the strain.

Unless you are racing, it's pointless not to fully ease the sail when taking up on the reef pendant. Don't forget the topping lift. Over topping the boom will make it much easier to flatten the sail.

Having the reef pendants just come out of the boom won't give you enough power with this system. I have a long shackle for the lower boom vang attachement and a block shackled to each side of it. The pendants go through these blocks, turning blocks on deck, and then back to rope clutches on the cabin top. This lets me pull standing in the cockpit where I can get plenty of flattening power. I also have a winch handy that I have occasionally used in very strong winds for the first reef.

Remove the silly lever cam cleats on the gooseneck fitting. You can also just remove the springs. They just make letting out the reef a pain. This system only works well with pendants led back to the cockpit so there is no point in having the cams on the gooseneck.

If your gooseneck is the older style without the cover plates to keep the pendants from popping off, be sure to get them from RigRite. They are essential.

I wouldn't convert my boat or yours to an all external system. It's nice to not have all that gear on the side of the boom and not having to haul pendants from the cabin top or forward is a safety factor. I still have my main halyard at the mast an use the gooseneck reefing hooks though. I don't believe in halyards led to the cockpit for singlehanding but that's another subject.

I'll be glad get you some pictures if you need more guidance.

 

[tommays]

I will post a picture tonight of mine as i cant from here

The other big issue i have run into is the quality of the leach line cam at the reef points as i find when its that windy the line needs a good bit of TUG to stop any flutter

 

[Stu Jackson]

It could well be that he has used the second reef ss bail point for his first reef.

 

[BobM]

Thanks for all the replies. Just to clarify a few points. My boat has the reefing lines led aft, so can I use the cabin top winch to tension the line. The cheek blocks the PO installed are pretty wimpy though and were poorly mounted. On was distorted and literally falling off the mast. I did the use the correct bail for the 1st reef, it is just apparently too far forward for the new sail. I didn't run the line under the boom to relieve strain on the bail, but that sounds like a great idea.

Another quick question. The main came with short straps with D-rings sewn on either side placed in each forward reef cringle. I assume the idea was that, if you are using the reefing horns you can clip the D-rings on both sides providing better shape, but as my lines are run aft they are just kind of in the way. I snaked the line through the cringle around them, but do I even need them?

Thanks,

Bob

 

[Ron20324]

Another quick question. The main came with short straps with D-rings sewn on either side placed in each forward reef cringle. I assume the idea was that, if you are using the reefing horns you can clip the D-rings on both sides providing better shape, but as my lines are run aft they are just kind of in the way. I snaked the line through the cringle around them, but do I even need them?Bob[/quote]

On my sail, the rings are to attach blocks to for reefing lines. You don't say if the aft cringles have the same strap?

 

[Roger Long]

Another quick question. The main came with short straps with D-rings sewn on either side placed in each forward reef cringle. I assume the idea was that, if you are using the reefing horns you can clip the D-rings on both sides providing better shape, but as my lines are run aft they are just kind of in the way. I snaked the line through the cringle around them, but do I even need them?

By "horns", do you mean hooks on the top of the goosneck fitting? I started out thinking the rings on each side needed to be hooked but have decided there are two so you can hook either side and for simple construction. I just hook the one on the side with the mast halyard and it works fine. If you are using forward pendants lead aft instead of the reefing hooks, just cut the straps and remove the cringle rings.

I can't visualize what you mean about the rings being in the way if you aren't using forward reefing pendants. I like the ring and hook set up. I'm up there anyway since I handle my halyard from the main mast where I can pull on the sail when lowering and find it no problem to slip the ring over the hook. It's nice not to have yet another set of lines running aft that are not particularly necessary.

My reefing set up works very well. I can even throw in a reef singlehanded crossing a fairly narrow harbor or channel.

 

[BobM]

The aft cringles don't have a strap. Using them for blocks might be helpful as the cheek blocks on the mast may not be up to the task. They are Harken micro cheek blocks (I think) http://shop.sailnet.com/product_info.php/products_id/23717 and with 200lb breaking strength are unlikely to be up to the task the PO set them to.

 

[Joe]

I use the strap and ring, but just the one on the halyard side. The second ring is to keep the strap from slipping through the cringle. It's a lot easier to use the horn with the strap, than trying to manipulate the cringle into the ram's horn.

My very common system allows me to drop the halyard to a pre-marked set, then go to the mast to hook the tack and tension up the clew. Back to the cockpit to re set the halyard, vang and mainsheet. It takes lilke, 20 seconds. Remember......... always stay clipped on when you're singlehanding.

 

[BobM]

It was a real education to reef under real world conditions for the first time. In the moment, I must admit it was something of a shock to me to find that running under a single reefed main left me essentially unable to steer at one point, due to the current and waves exceeding my speed (essentially insufficient water passing over the rudder).

 

[BobM]

Now Stu...that really hurt...

It could well be that he has used the second reef ss bail point for his first reef.

...like I'd do that! :naughty: I'm lazy, but I'm not blind

 

[Stu Jackson]

No pain intended there

but sometimes the obvious escapes me and others. That's why writing handbooks recommend NOT using the word obviously, 'cuz if it was, you'd not have to use the word, obviously...

 

[tommays]

kenyon stuff

 

[BobM]

Hmm...My boom is already full of holes from PO's reconfiguration efforts. Think I can just take advantage of my loose footedness and just tie the end of the reefing line around the boom? Or is that going to provide insufficient tension when I try to pull the sail taught?