If you keep your boat simple, mast raising will be simple and fast. It's only when you get into installing good roller fulers like a CDI or Harken that the mast raising becomes slow and tedious requiring extra equipment that uses valuable time to set up. A mast holding device that you can build, along with a 60' 3/8" rope with an eye slice on one end, and a single sheave block to attach to the bow cleat is about all you need to raise your mast. The key here is KISS. When you reach "Geezerdom" some day, you can think about those extra goodies. The first picture shows Wayne's mast holding rig for his Seaward 22. The other two pics show your's truly, raising the mast all by his lonesome.This is a great forum with great guys. Everyone is so helpful, I'll definitely be fixing my boat right. Thanks Joe for your pics especially on mast raising I'll also be alone. Maybe Jim can take on a new business for the winter
Ron, If your up for a road trip to FL for your winter, we could get some sailing in between projects! My club has scheduled sails from Sept thru June.This is a great forum with great guys. Everyone is so helpful, I'll definitely be fixing my boat right. Thanks Joe for your pics especially on mast raising I'll also be alone. Maybe Jim can take on a new business for the winter
Jim,Ron, If your up for a road trip to FL for your winter, we could get some sailing in between projects! My club has scheduled sails from Sept thru June.
Like Joe, I am trying to keep everything simple to keep setup time to minimum. One small project was to find a method to leaving the rudder on the boat but still have a telescoping crutch. Not sure you can tell everything from the pics, but I moved up one of the spacer bolts on the rear edge of the rudder head, this let the rudder kick up real high, and allowed room to slide in a one piece crutch in front of the rudder. My prototype is wood right now, but the final will be an aluminum tube. The crutch extends about 30" I think, which gives me a pretty good advantage for the manual raising. The crutch also gives me a home for coiled rigging while trailering. I also rigged a continous line for the rudder up/down line to a simple cleat.
Since the boat is without life lines, I wanted a furling jib but not the time it takes to setup a rigid furler, so I am trying out a wire luff jib setup for awhile. You cannot reef the jib with this setup. To store, the jib stays rolled up on the wire and without a leach cover since its not stored out in the weather. A 20 footer is about the maximum boat for this setup. Harken sells this cruising furler set for max 20 boat length. I still use a typical fore stay for safety.
Oh yea I finished the forward hatch today. I felt the air move thru the boat the minute the cutout fell thru!
Jim
Ron,Thanks Joe, I'm not about to raise by hand, those days are long gone. On my last boat I used an electric wench, but like you said more time setting up. Today I got the boat jacked up and took the trailer out. Now I would like to paint the bottom at least. Then I'll start putting everyone's idears together and add it to my boat. I do like your mast raising method. Later maybe I could get a closer look. Thanks once again RonC
Bill,Thanks for the info on the swim ladder. After some extensive cleaning and redo, I was able to get my 20 in the water yesterday and have a brief sail on the Hudson. The problem I had was that I couldn't get the board to go down. The boat sat on the hard for close to 6 years. Looking at it before we launched there seemed to be space all around the board relative to the keel. Today I bought a3/8 inch steel rod and was able to get down next to the pendant and give it some taps with a hammer but notheing moved. Any ideas how I can get it down (loose) without getting under the boat. Bill
Hi Ron and all,
Just joined this forum also, and just recently finished a complete rebuild of my Oday 20. Still have some minor projects, but she is back on the water. We trailer sail all over FL. I would be happy to share pics of the project.
Jim
Ron,
I did spray the boat, but have seen fine examples of roll and tip installations, that could pass for spray jobs. Its all in the prep, and not cheating on materials.
I sanded the entire boat to prep for primer, doing some bodywork where required for issues that would telegraph thru. For the first sanding and major work, I used a random orbit variable speed sander. Home Depot has one for about $160 and well worth the money. A palm sander is way too fast for this work and gets the sandpaper too hot. And dont buy cheap sandpaper.
Sometimes I think the paint manufactures just try to sell more product when they tell you that primer is required over solid and well prepped gelcoat, but in my case I was not going to chance it. The primer showed me exactly what was going to show up in the finish.
I used Interlux two part polyurethane which has critical thinning requirements (10% by volume max) because the paint is thin already, so it is easy to put on too much and get runs. Test your viscosity and spray pattern on a piece of glass to see how it will lay down. You do not need a huge compressor, nothing less than 2 HP will keep up though. Also you do not need expensive spray gun with this paint but it helps. This paint flows out well, but keep a wet edge. Use a NIOSH mask, dont try to get by with a dust mask or handkerchief. As with roll and tip, you must sand between coats to get a great job. I wet sanded with 220 I think. If you want a very good final finish, then you want to wet sand until you get a completely opaque finish after sanding, not just the high spots off the orange peel. This is alot grueling work if you wound up with alot of orange peel because you didnt thin correctly and decided to keep just keep putting it on. Orange peel on top of orange peel wllh give you, yes that right more orange peel and you cannot wait till the last coat to get rid of it. You will wind up sanding thru all layers at corners and any raised imperfections trying to get rid of three coats of orange peel. And the final coat is just that. No sanding or buffing should be required after the final coat.
I think the topsides and cockpit are too difficult an area for roll and tip method, and roll tip can cancel out the non-skid when the paint settles in the nooks and crannies. I used a dulling agent in the last spray coat on the non-skid to try to keep it from being too slick when wet. Buy enough dulling agent to get a flat finish which is better than the semi-gloss for the non-skid to be more slip resistant.
The following link is the retailer I bought from which saved some money compared to you know who http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?group=99379&product=100119
An ounce of prep is worth a guart of paint, and at $74/qt....yes, you've got the picture!
Good Luck!
Jim