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- Thread starter Ron20450
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If you keep your boat simple, mast raising will be simple and fast. It's only when you get into installing good roller fulers like a CDI or Harken that the mast raising becomes slow and tedious requiring extra equipment that uses valuable time to set up. A mast holding device that you can build, along with a 60' 3/8" rope with an eye slice on one end, and a single sheave block to attach to the bow cleat is about all you need to raise your mast. The key here is KISS. When you reach "Geezerdom" some day, you can think about those extra goodies. The first picture shows Wayne's mast holding rig for his Seaward 22. The other two pics show your's truly, raising the mast all by his lonesome.This is a great forum with great guys. Everyone is so helpful, I'll definitely be fixing my boat right. Thanks Joe for your pics especially on mast raising I'll also be alone. Maybe Jim can take on a new business for the winter
Joe
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Thanks Joe, I'm not about to raise by hand, those days are long gone. On my last boat I used an electric wench, but like you said more time setting up. Today I got the boat jacked up and took the trailer out. Now I would like to paint the bottom at least. Then I'll start putting everyone's idears together and add it to my boat. I do like your mast raising method. Later maybe I could get a closer look. Thanks once again RonC
Ron, If your up for a road trip to FL for your winter, we could get some sailing in between projects! My club has scheduled sails from Sept thru June.This is a great forum with great guys. Everyone is so helpful, I'll definitely be fixing my boat right. Thanks Joe for your pics especially on mast raising I'll also be alone. Maybe Jim can take on a new business for the winter
Like Joe, I am trying to keep everything simple to keep setup time to minimum. One small project was to find a method to leaving the rudder on the boat but still have a telescoping crutch. Not sure you can tell everything from the pics, but I moved up one of the spacer bolts on the rear edge of the rudder head, this let the rudder kick up real high, and allowed room to slide in a one piece crutch in front of the rudder. My prototype is wood right now, but the final will be an aluminum tube. The crutch extends about 30" I think, which gives me a pretty good advantage for the manual raising. The crutch also gives me a home for coiled rigging while trailering. I also rigged a continous line for the rudder up/down line to a simple cleat.
Since the boat is without life lines, I wanted a furling jib but not the time it takes to setup a rigid furler, so I am trying out a wire luff jib setup for awhile. You cannot reef the jib with this setup. To store, the jib stays rolled up on the wire and without a leach cover since its not stored out in the weather. A 20 footer is about the maximum boat for this setup. Harken sells this cruising furler set for max 20 boat length. I still use a typical forestay for safety.
Oh yea I finished the forward hatch today. I felt the air move thru the boat the minute the cutout fell thru!
Jim
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Jim,
Those mods are very unique. The forward hatch will make a huge difference in that boat too. For anchoring in a cove, I have been setting up a small Polytarp from my mast to the fore stay over the hatch. It serves as a wind scoop and also will keep the rain from blowing into the hatch opening, and of course I always use a tarp over the boom unless it's extremely windy.
Joe
Ron,
I'm going to take mine off the trailer in a few weeks and do her bottom again. Mods are fun to do and you don't have to do them all at once. I've managed to do at least one or two every year. If you ever need additional pics on any of them, just email me and I'll send them to you.
Smooth Sailing!
Joe
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Jim thanks for the ideas. I like that rudder, did you build it? Mine is solid, find it hard and heavy to handle. I'd love to go to Florida for the winter, but I need to wait till my granddaughter finishes college. I'm all she has now. I lost my wife of 46yr. and my youngest son this year and I really need to get away.
Joe, thanks for the offer on additional pics, I'll take you up on that. And as far as making mods on the boat, I love it. I love sailing but I also love the challenge of figuring better and easier ways to do things.
take care and God bless
RonC
Joe, thanks for the offer on additional pics, I'll take you up on that. And as far as making mods on the boat, I love it. I love sailing but I also love the challenge of figuring better and easier ways to do things.
take care and God bless
RonC
Thanks for the info on the swim ladder. After some extensive cleaning and redo, I was able to get my 20 in the water yesterday and have a brief sail on the Hudson. The problem I had was that I couldn't get the board to go down. The boat sat on the hard for close to 6 years. Looking at it before we launched there seemed to be space all around the board relative to the keel. Today I bought a3/8 inch steel rod and was able to get down next to the pendant and give it some taps with a hammer but notheing moved. Any ideas how I can get it down (loose) without getting under the boat. Bill
Bill,
I don't think that it's a good idea to try to tap it down with a rod from above. There may be a sheave up inside the keel slot that the pendant line goes through. If so, you may damage it. I say this because my O'Day 222 has a sheave for the pendant line and the pulley is made of plastic.
I'm afraid that you're going to have to go under the keel and use something flat, similar to a carpenter's square to get in between the board and the inside keel slot. I'm not familiar with the waters in your neck of the woods, but where I keep my boat on river that leads out to the ocean, we get marine growth in the form of hard barnacles which can actually slow a boat down. They can collect inside the keel and prevent the board from coming down when you let the pendant line off. Hopefully, your board isn't cracked and swelled. The only way to find this out is to look at it. It may be worth your while to talk to someone at a local boat yard about having it raised out of the water. My friend Chuck had to do this at the marina where he keeps his boat. They raised his boat and when he got the board down, he discovered that there was a chunk taken out of it. So what he did was remove the board and had the boat put back in the water and he sailed without the board for the rest of the season. In the winter, he had the board drying out next to his furnace, and he was able to make the necessary repairs to it. What you could try is; to put about a foot of slack in the pendant line and take her out into some turbulent water to see if the board falls down. Otherwise, do one of the two alternatives. I'm really not all that familiar with the centerboard set up on the O'Day 20, but here are some pics of the O'Day 222. Check them out.
Joe
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Hi Jim, Just want to ask you about that beautiful finish you got on your boat.
I know it's a lame question but I'd like to be sure. Every where I read they
say they used a foam roller. But seems to me to get a nice finish like yours you must have to spray. Am I right. That's the finish I would like on mine
Thanks RonC
Ron,
I did spray the boat, but have seen fine examples of roll and tip installations, that could pass for spray jobs. Its all in the prep, and not cheating on materials.
I sanded the entire boat to prep for primer, doing some bodywork where required for issues that would telegraph thru. For the first sanding and major work, I used a random orbit variable speed sander. Home Depot has one for about $160 and well worth the money. A palm sander is way too fast for this work and gets the sandpaper too hot. And dont buy cheap sandpaper.
Sometimes I think the paint manufactures just try to sell more product when they tell you that primer is required over solid and well prepped gelcoat, but in my case I was not going to chance it. The primer showed me exactly what was going to show up in the finish.
I used Interlux two part polyurethane which has critical thinning requirements (10% by volume max) because the paint is thin already, so it is easy to put on too much and get runs. Test your viscosity and spray pattern on a piece of glass to see how it will lay down. You do not need a huge compressor, nothing less than 2 HP will keep up though. Also you do not need expensive spray gun with this paint but it helps. This paint flows out well, but keep a wet edge. Use a NIOSH mask, dont try to get by with a dust mask or handkerchief. As with roll and tip, you must sand between coats to get a great job. I wet sanded with 220 I think. If you want a very good final finish, then you want to wet sand until you get a completely opaque finish after sanding, not just the high spots off the orange peel. This is alot grueling work if you wound up with alot of orange peel because you didnt thin correctly and decided to keep just keep putting it on. Orange peel on top of orange peel wllh give you, yes that right more orange peel and you cannot wait till the last coat to get rid of it. You will wind up sanding thru all layers at corners and any raised imperfections trying to get rid of three coats of orange peel. And the final coat is just that. No sanding or buffing should be required after the final coat.
I think the topsides and cockpit are too difficult an area for roll and tip method, and roll tip can cancel out the non-skid when the paint settles in the nooks and crannies. I used a dulling agent in the last spray coat on the non-skid to try to keep it from being too slick when wet. Buy enough dulling agent to get a flat finish which is better than the semi-gloss for the non-skid to be more slip resistant.
The following link is the retailer I bought from which saved some money compared to you know who http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?group=99379&product=100119
An ounce of prep is worth a guart of paint, and at $74/qt....yes, you've got the picture!
Good Luck!
Jim
I did spray the boat, but have seen fine examples of roll and tip installations, that could pass for spray jobs. Its all in the prep, and not cheating on materials.
I sanded the entire boat to prep for primer, doing some bodywork where required for issues that would telegraph thru. For the first sanding and major work, I used a random orbit variable speed sander. Home Depot has one for about $160 and well worth the money. A palm sander is way too fast for this work and gets the sandpaper too hot. And dont buy cheap sandpaper.
Sometimes I think the paint manufactures just try to sell more product when they tell you that primer is required over solid and well prepped gelcoat, but in my case I was not going to chance it. The primer showed me exactly what was going to show up in the finish.
I used Interlux two part polyurethane which has critical thinning requirements (10% by volume max) because the paint is thin already, so it is easy to put on too much and get runs. Test your viscosity and spray pattern on a piece of glass to see how it will lay down. You do not need a huge compressor, nothing less than 2 HP will keep up though. Also you do not need expensive spray gun with this paint but it helps. This paint flows out well, but keep a wet edge. Use a NIOSH mask, dont try to get by with a dust mask or handkerchief. As with roll and tip, you must sand between coats to get a great job. I wet sanded with 220 I think. If you want a very good final finish, then you want to wet sand until you get a completely opaque finish after sanding, not just the high spots off the orange peel. This is alot grueling work if you wound up with alot of orange peel because you didnt thin correctly and decided to keep just keep putting it on. Orange peel on top of orange peel wllh give you, yes that right more orange peel and you cannot wait till the last coat to get rid of it. You will wind up sanding thru all layers at corners and any raised imperfections trying to get rid of three coats of orange peel. And the final coat is just that. No sanding or buffing should be required after the final coat.
I think the topsides and cockpit are too difficult an area for roll and tip method, and roll tip can cancel out the non-skid when the paint settles in the nooks and crannies. I used a dulling agent in the last spray coat on the non-skid to try to keep it from being too slick when wet. Buy enough dulling agent to get a flat finish which is better than the semi-gloss for the non-skid to be more slip resistant.
The following link is the retailer I bought from which saved some money compared to you know who http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/product.cgi?group=99379&product=100119
An ounce of prep is worth a guart of paint, and at $74/qt....yes, you've got the picture!
Good Luck!
Jim
Attachments
Thanks Jim, I have all your words copied for reference when I start. I just found out the paint they have on their now is Benjamin Moore house enamel. So it looks like I have plenty of work ahead of me. And thanks again for your help. God bless RonC
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