Installing Seacocks - Follow Up Info !!

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Dec 8, 2007
478
Irwin 41 CC Ketch LaConner WA
Maybe ,you me and Mainsail

should form an LLC and market Bronze thru hulls with at least 3/16 of meat under the threads...;) Yes feeling very mossy alright. My jobsite today was clay..sort of like trying to stand on the foredeck in a blow, but a lot messier when you hit the deck.
 
Dec 8, 2007
478
Irwin 41 CC Ketch LaConner WA
Maybe ,you me and Mainsail

should form an LLC and market Bronze thru hulls with at least 3/16 of meat under the threads...;) Yes feeling very mossy alright. My jobsite today was clay..sort of like trying to stand on the foredeck in a blow, but a lot messier when you hit the deck.
 

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
My old thru hulls (1968 vintage) are 1/2 IPS (iron pipe size)

But the hole in them is only about 3/8 inch. Do you think they may be schedule 80 pipe?
 

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
My old thru hulls (1968 vintage) are 1/2 IPS (iron pipe size)

But the hole in them is only about 3/8 inch. Do you think they may be schedule 80 pipe?
 

Manny

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Oct 5, 2006
983
Hunter 82? 37 Cutter Wherever the wind takes me
Hypothetically speaking

Lets say, oh maybe last year, following advice given with the best intentions, someone put NPT caps on thru-hulls (not realizing there were thread differences) - but instead of using teflon tape or pipe dope used a fair amount of 4200 or 5200, might that help with the minimal thread contact? Manny
 

Manny

.
Oct 5, 2006
983
Hunter 82? 37 Cutter Wherever the wind takes me
Hypothetically speaking

Lets say, oh maybe last year, following advice given with the best intentions, someone put NPT caps on thru-hulls (not realizing there were thread differences) - but instead of using teflon tape or pipe dope used a fair amount of 4200 or 5200, might that help with the minimal thread contact? Manny
 
A

Akula

Ball Valves on Through-Hulls

Maine Sail says, “It's funny that the only person who claims to have re-threaded a thru-hull to NPT is a non-registered poster who has only ever had ONE post according to the search tool..” Maine Sail has a history of implying that a poster must be registered to have credibility. Does a poster need to have chronicled an extensive number of posts like Maine Sail to have credibility, I think not. I think the intent of this forum is to share our collective knowledge so we all can be better sailors. Ross, thank you for your post explaining what a Black Locust Clamp is and how to make one. If I had this knowledge back when I cut NPT on the through-hulls I would have made and used this clamp. I used a piece of steel flat stock that fit inside the through-hulls to keep them from spinning during threading, with a similar affect as the step wrench photo Maine Sail posted. I used basic threading dies with a ratchet-handle to make threads. You also mentioned “notch sensitivity” in another post. This is what I consider the weak point of a valve mounted on the end of a through-hull. We know about the affects an unsecured alternator had on a through-hull. This is why I do not stow unsecured gear near through-hull/valves, notch sensitivity. Hunter put valves, without flanges, on the end of through-hulls for many years. My ’82 H-33 came with gate-valves on the through-hulls. This flange-less valve system probably saved time and money. Is it the most dependable system for use below the waterline, NO. I think a proper seacock through-bolted is the best. So, this begs the question, why did I use ball-valves? It saved time, money, and has worked for many years. It is a production boat after all. Akula PS: I think Maine Sail’s through-hull article with photos is well done. I commend you for emphasizing the hazards associated with combining NPS and NPT.
 
A

Akula

Ball Valves on Through-Hulls

Maine Sail says, “It's funny that the only person who claims to have re-threaded a thru-hull to NPT is a non-registered poster who has only ever had ONE post according to the search tool..” Maine Sail has a history of implying that a poster must be registered to have credibility. Does a poster need to have chronicled an extensive number of posts like Maine Sail to have credibility, I think not. I think the intent of this forum is to share our collective knowledge so we all can be better sailors. Ross, thank you for your post explaining what a Black Locust Clamp is and how to make one. If I had this knowledge back when I cut NPT on the through-hulls I would have made and used this clamp. I used a piece of steel flat stock that fit inside the through-hulls to keep them from spinning during threading, with a similar affect as the step wrench photo Maine Sail posted. I used basic threading dies with a ratchet-handle to make threads. You also mentioned “notch sensitivity” in another post. This is what I consider the weak point of a valve mounted on the end of a through-hull. We know about the affects an unsecured alternator had on a through-hull. This is why I do not stow unsecured gear near through-hull/valves, notch sensitivity. Hunter put valves, without flanges, on the end of through-hulls for many years. My ’82 H-33 came with gate-valves on the through-hulls. This flange-less valve system probably saved time and money. Is it the most dependable system for use below the waterline, NO. I think a proper seacock through-bolted is the best. So, this begs the question, why did I use ball-valves? It saved time, money, and has worked for many years. It is a production boat after all. Akula PS: I think Maine Sail’s through-hull article with photos is well done. I commend you for emphasizing the hazards associated with combining NPS and NPT.
 

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Akula, so when are you gonna register and

include a brief bio?
 

Ross

.
Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Akula, so when are you gonna register and

include a brief bio?
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,759
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Akula..

Sorry for the mistake, if you are real, but you must under stand that when someone shows up here, unregistered, and with only ONE post to their name (now two) people question things. Can you please do us a favor and send us a link to the ratchet die you used. I'm sure many here would like to have proper matching threads and I can't seem to find one like you describe even after after scouring the net for quite some time now. I'm hoping you remember where you purchased it.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,759
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Akula..

Sorry for the mistake, if you are real, but you must under stand that when someone shows up here, unregistered, and with only ONE post to their name (now two) people question things. Can you please do us a favor and send us a link to the ratchet die you used. I'm sure many here would like to have proper matching threads and I can't seem to find one like you describe even after after scouring the net for quite some time now. I'm hoping you remember where you purchased it.
 

RAD

.
Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Sounds like Akula used a

Ridgid standard plumbing die with a rachet and having a hold on to the fitting from inside left all the room on the threads to run the die to the end Did it cut real easy? did it take a lot of material off the fitting and compromise the fitting?
 

RAD

.
Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Sounds like Akula used a

Ridgid standard plumbing die with a rachet and having a hold on to the fitting from inside left all the room on the threads to run the die to the end Did it cut real easy? did it take a lot of material off the fitting and compromise the fitting?
 
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