Improving the Hunter 216

[curt in CO]

I snooped around the internet to see if I could find examples of Skookum's rig. I found this one. Good explanation and I like the article on "mods". Pros and Cons of this rig were informative.
Soft traveler

I also discovered that "my" version is often called a two-mainsheet system. Not to be confused with the similar German Sheeting System.



Trimmed in hard, the 46 was able to sail at close to 40 degrees to the true wind. The small genoa sheets inside the side stays so the sheeting angles are quite narrow. The in-mast furling mainsail, built by Elvstrom, was cut quite flat but was drawing nicely. The main sheet uses what is being called the “German sheeting system” since all of the Bavarias are set up this way; the sheeting involves two independent main sheets, port and starboard, that replace the sliding traveler.

You use the windward sheet to trim the sail and the leeward sheet to trim the leech in much the same way you would with a conventional traveler. When it comes time to jibe the main, you can maintain complete control of the boom through the jibe by handling both sheets at the same time, a job easily managed by one person.

 

[SkookumZac]

Sorry, I should have given credit. This pic isn't from my boat, it's a San Juan 21:
Travelers - San Juan 21 Fleet 1

His installation is complicated by the Tiller being in the way--you won't have that problem with the 216.

Given the reduced loads of end boom sheeting, I think a 3:1 mainsheet and 2:1 traveler secured to a pair of (properly backed) U-Bolts would be adequate.
-Z

 

[Hunter216]

Sorry, I should have given credit. This pic isn't from my boat, it's a San Juan 21:
Travelers - San Juan 21 Fleet 1
View attachment 169771
His installation is complicated by the Tiller being in the way--you won't have that problem with the 216.

Given the reduced loads of end boom sheeting, I think a 3:1 mainsheet and 2:1 traveler secured to a pair of (properly backed) U-Bolts would be adequate.
-Z

Thanks for the extra photo and the San Juan link answers most if not all of my questions.

 

[Hunter216]

Next upgrade will be the boomkicker.

I measured the end of boom weight as I was curious. The boom, mainsail and mainsheet are all stock Hunter. There was also a canvas mainsail cover on the sail when I measured. As you can see it was about 13.5lbs assuming my fishing scale is accurate. Thought it would be more!

 

[Hunter216]

I believe I have sorted a relatively inexpensive top down furler solution for the standard 216 asym. I will post detailed costing and approach info later.

Asym Top down furler

I ordered a Ronstan RS006400R (combo kit of drum, top swivel and continuous line) unit today as I feel it has better price/performance than the Harken 1134 Line-Drive & it's associated 1878 top swivel. The Ronstan info can be found here...

forums.sailboatowners.com

 

[Hunter216]

I ordered a boomkicker today that should arrive in a few days assuming clearing customs isn’t an issue. I hope to get it installed so that I can try it out a few times before I haul out.

I hope I can get the mast end low enough (I siliconed the sail track to try to keep rain out of the cuddy) to be able to replicate @John Welch install.

I do have some things I need to sort through though:

1) I’m wondering if I can re-use my existing rope vang blocks to fabricate the one in John’s photo, I think I can just add a block as a cascade but I’m not sure of how much line to buy. I ordered the triangle fitting for the bail and I think it comes with shackles but I might have to buy some at the marine store.

2) I also bought the roll stop but I’m not positive if the measurement on the boom is taken from the end cap or the start of the boom extrusion. I’m also considering using a through bolt (like for a bail) instead of the two threaded screws but wonder if that idea was rejected by Ted Corbett the designer.

3) Because of the silicone blocking the sail track I ordered two options to mount the mast end of the boomkicker but would appreciate opinions on which would be “better”. Option one is to use two longer screws without the track slug to attach the normal fitting. Option two is an older style of mount that has 6 screws to attach to the sides of the mast, doesn’t use the track but it’s swivel is a little thinner and it will likely need spacer washers to get it to conform to the shape of the mast.

 

[Hunter216]

During the one season I’ve sailed the 216 there are two things I would like to have more control over.Mostly I’m fairly content with the simple centre of floor rig Henderson designed into the boat.

1) the ability to depower the main in certain conditions and points of sail (twist) when the wind gets up or it’s gusty singlehanding the big roachy main is a handful.

2) light air efficient pointing.(main closer to centre) after all who doesn’t want to go faster!

I know - kind of weird replying to my own post but I thought it might bring context to the following;
I’ve been going back and forth on whether a “traveller - bridle” system would add much use to me and how I sail. Logic would say it should improve performance and safety but I’m not entirely convinced.

During two light wind days ~5knots I tried to determine if moving the boom closer to centreline made a noticeable difference. With the centre of floor mainsheet there comes a point close hauled where the force is down not in and that’s it. What I experimented with was to leave the mainsheet loose, grab a handful and pull the boom to centre but not so much down attempting to replicate what a bar traveller would achieve.Not a very definitive test as I didn’t have another 216 pacing me but my take was that it didn’t seem to make a much difference. The big roachy main and light hull is pretty efficient so is all the extra tackle and line worth it.....hmmm???

The other extreme for me is when wind strength gets to a point where I would start using a bar traveller to level the boat. I’m finding that in those conditions I just reef the main and/or jib to maintain comfortable control or just call it a day and go back to my mooring. So again will I actually get much value from adding a more complex mainsheet system??

 

[Hunter216]

I ordered a boomkicker today that should arrive in a few days assuming clearing customs isn’t an issue. I hope to get it installed so that I can try it out a few times before I haul out.

I hope I can get the mast end low enough (I siliconed the sail track to try to keep rain out of the cuddy) to be able to replicate @John Welch install.

I do have some things I need to sort through though:

1) I’m wondering if I can re-use my existing rope vang blocks to fabricate the one in John’s photo, I think I can just add a block as a cascade but I’m not sure of how much line to buy. I ordered the triangle fitting for the bail and I think it comes with shackles but I might have to buy some at the marine store.

2) I also bought the roll stop but I’m not positive if the measurement on the boom is taken from the end cap or the start of the boom extrusion. I’m also considering using a through bolt (like for a bail) instead of the two threaded screws but wonder if that idea was rejected by Ted Corbett the designer.

3) Because of the silicone blocking the sail track I ordered two options to mount the mast end of the boomkicker but would appreciate opinions on which would be “better”. Option one is to use two longer screws without the track slug to attach the normal fitting. Option two is an older style of mount that has 6 screws to attach to the sides of the mast, doesn’t use the track but it’s swivel is a little thinner and it will likely need spacer washers to get it to conform to the shape of the mast.

I installed my new system today but didn’t get a chance to try it out

I did reuse my existing rope vang but added a single block to cascade. Even with the cascade increase in MA there’s quite a strain to pull the boom down so I’m glad I did that. Obviously a lot of the down pressure will be applied by the mainsheet but I don’t think the basic rope vang would have been enough.

I installed the roll stop as per instructions basically replicating what @John Welsh did. After checking with Ted I did use a 1/4” x 3” long bolt to attach the two arms to the boom.

I decided to use the standard mast fitting as it fit the end of the boomkicker much better. I had to drill and tap the sail slot and use longer screws that Ted Corlett the boomkicker designer included in the kit. Good firm connection; I need to sail the system before final answer but I feel it’s the better choice.

Awesome customer service from this company BTW!

 

[Hunter216]

Managed to get out on the water today, getting late in the season here (first frost warning tonight) to try out the new boomkicker / roll stop setup.

As @John Welch said it makes quite a difference in performance but I also noticed that with the rope vang and mainsheet relaxed but snug the head clearance under the boom is much better. So likely less head clunking the boom during swim time!!

 

[BobbyFunn]

Sweet! Were you using the boom kicker to introduce sail twist or just looking for an easy way to keep the boom up high.

 

[Hunter216]

I was focused on the performance improvement - safety factor via sail shape but while I was at the dock tidying up after the sail I had everything loose and noticed that I didn’t have to bend over my beer belly as much to get under the boom!

 

[Hunter216]

Managed to get out on the water today, getting late in the season here (first frost warning tonight)

I think my sailing season is over!

 

[Hunter216]

So I hauled out today as the weather was perfect for that, sunny, relatively warm and NO WIND so I wasn’t tempted to get one last sail in. Good way to end the season.

The addition of the new boom gear added a bit to the time to de-rig so anyone that is an active trailer sailor should factor that in before deciding on this improvement. Not too big a deal but it’s extra stuff to deal with.

I pondered how I could gently remove the boom by myself and sort of drew a blank so just hooked up the now “redundant” topping lift, removed the kicker and the roll stop, unhooked the gooseneck and set the mast end of the boom on the cockpit floor.

In hindsight I guess I could have propped the end of the boom up with a boat pole or something to get the load off the pins of the kicker and roll stop, dropped the end of the boom down on the floor or seat and then unhooked the gooseneck. Greater chance of the boom smacking something though.

Might just leave the topping lift on the mast just for this purpose alone.