Alright. I've finally gotten around to getting forming and cutting the bolt for my spreader end rigging hook. I knocked off the sharp edges and it fits perfect if a bit wedge shaped. Does anyone know what the recommended tension is to hold the upper shrouds in the spreader bars is? Should it be able to slide through, or clamped down?
I'm picking up a new to me '87 H23 tomorrow.
- Thread starter Tb0n3
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MY understanding is that fitting's job is to hold the spreader perpendicular to the mast. As such you don't want the shroud moving back and forth, meaning it should be clamped. I don't think you need to really crank it down, just snug. I'm on boat #4 now, and all of mine have had that connection at the tip of the spreaders tightened down enough to prevent slippage.
We started in sailing with a Hunter 23 in 2001. In my opinion, if you paid $2000 for it, it might as well of been $0. Unless something is terribly, horribly wrong, you've got a wonderful starter boat for essentially free. Just forget any second guessing, fix whatever's wrong, and enjoy the boat. You will spend lots of money in the process, but... that's the game with sailing. It will never make sense on a per-hour-of-use basis, so forget all of that and make the boat your own. It's a perfect starter "big boat", where "big" is in the eye of the beholder.
The weather's been all over the place and I wish I had registered the trailer and boat so I could use it this year. That aside I finally put together a gin pole out of a 2x4, 3 1/4" eye bolts, 2 pulleys, 2 shackles and a rope. It's not great, but it's the best I could come up with.
I got the mast stepped and boom in place just to see how she sits and it worked just fine going up. I will admit I screwed up going down since I was doing it all by myself and the mast loves to yaw side to side if you don't control it. It dropped the last 1/4 of the way onto the solid hatch cover and luckily it all seems to have come out unscathed, aside from taking a year off my life.
Any suggestions on keeping the mast sway under control on raise and lower? I'm currently planning on just running the lifting line I'm using through one of the fairlead pulleys on the mast foot, but figured I'd ask for recommendations.
I got the mast stepped and boom in place just to see how she sits and it worked just fine going up. I will admit I screwed up going down since I was doing it all by myself and the mast loves to yaw side to side if you don't control it. It dropped the last 1/4 of the way onto the solid hatch cover and luckily it all seems to have come out unscathed, aside from taking a year off my life.
Any suggestions on keeping the mast sway under control on raise and lower? I'm currently planning on just running the lifting line I'm using through one of the fairlead pulleys on the mast foot, but figured I'd ask for recommendations.
Ther me should be a set of @baby stays used in raising and lowering that prevent sway. They would attach lied on the mast and near the base of a stanchion. My H26 has a designated set… but on a balboa 26 I used to own, I used ratchet tow straps.
Here is a link that explains better
The Perfect Solo Mast-Raising System for Small Sailboats | Tropical Boating
www.tropicalboating.com
Becoming a Hunter dealer in the 1984-1985 dealer I sold many of the 23 wing keel boats. The first ten were swing keels. The brochure was a joke showing a woman standing behind the mast raising it. When the 18.5 and 23 were slowing down, I submitted to Hunter plans which became the 23.5 water ballast Included was a mast raise system I designed. @rgranger had that mast raise system on his hunter 26.
Rob is correct about stabilizing the mast sideways and has given you a good resource.
under boat info for the 23, there is some discussion of mast raising by Peter Suah and Mark Powers. Also check archives. Keep Rob and I are in the loop
Rob is correct about stabilizing the mast sideways and has given you a good resource.
under boat info for the 23, there is some discussion of mast raising by Peter Suah and Mark Powers. Also check archives. Keep Rob and I are in the loop
The 23 didn't come with baby stays and it's all but impossible to use any stanchions. The mast base pivot is about 8 inches higher than the deck at the gunwales. The lower attachment of any baby stays has to be near the same level as the pivot or else the baby stays will tighten or loosen as you move the mast.
I don't think it's safe to move the mast with one person. You probably can handle it with 3, one on each side to hold each outer stay to control sway. Any sway risks twisting the mast extrusion off the fitting at it's base (trust me on that one), let alone a disaster or injury.
I fashioned baby stays, using wood 2x4s layered on each side to create a pivot point at the same level as the mast tabernacle. I fixed them vertically using a stainless rope across the deck between them so they couldn't tilt outward and ratchet straps down and under the hull so they wouldn't tilt in. Stainless ropes for the baby stays, attached to a chain loop wrapped around the mast that I raise it to the spreaders with the main halyard. Kind of hard to describe, and I have no photos.
I don't think it's safe to move the mast with one person. You probably can handle it with 3, one on each side to hold each outer stay to control sway. Any sway risks twisting the mast extrusion off the fitting at it's base (trust me on that one), let alone a disaster or injury.
I fashioned baby stays, using wood 2x4s layered on each side to create a pivot point at the same level as the mast tabernacle. I fixed them vertically using a stainless rope across the deck between them so they couldn't tilt outward and ratchet straps down and under the hull so they wouldn't tilt in. Stainless ropes for the baby stays, attached to a chain loop wrapped around the mast that I raise it to the spreaders with the main halyard. Kind of hard to describe, and I have no photos.
Looking at the link that was shared, you don't need a stanchion in the exact spot. They used a triangulated chain between two stanchions it seems and hooked the baby stays to a link that was in the right spot. It looks to me like that would work.
I think that design with a triangulated chain could work - the key, as they note, is getting the attachment point for the baby stays in line with the tabernacle. I can't recall if the 23 has stanchions with attachments positioned appropriately. I would recommend using the jib halyard down to the end of the gin pole, and not an attachment on the mast much lower down as shown in the post - the 23 has a pretty tall mast. That means you have to remove the jib from the furler tube (if you have a furler), but I'd do that anyway when unstepping. Having the furled sail and drum attached when raising and lowering makes it awkward, and can torque or bend the swaged fitting at the top of the stay. I had a mishap where my helpers did not realize the furler drum on the deck jammed against a stanchion while we were sliding the mast forward to lay in the bow pulpit, and the furler tube bent causing a connecting piece to snap. Luckily I was able to undo the set screws and buy a new connector, but it was a PITA.
I've finally gotten to launch in my local reservoir. The launch is a bit low so it was fiddly, but in and out with no damage. It was my very first time sailing so I learned a lot, and figured I'd take it easy without worrying about the jib in the maiden voyage.
Does anyone know just how strong the trailer winch eye is in these boats? I wanted to pull it further onto the trailer but didn't want to damage anything. It pulled up a bit low on the bow blocks.
The mast went up easy, but going down I was nervous about dropping it. I used a few ropes to create a side to side hold. One on each side connected to the forward cleats, up to a figure 8 loop, and down/forward just a bit to the front stanchion. Used the jib halyard again to get it into position for the gin pole to take over.
All in all not the half hour to set up and break down that I dreamed of when I was thinking of sailing but fun nonetheless.
Does anyone know just how strong the trailer winch eye is in these boats? I wanted to pull it further onto the trailer but didn't want to damage anything. It pulled up a bit low on the bow blocks.
The mast went up easy, but going down I was nervous about dropping it. I used a few ropes to create a side to side hold. One on each side connected to the forward cleats, up to a figure 8 loop, and down/forward just a bit to the front stanchion. Used the jib halyard again to get it into position for the gin pole to take over.
All in all not the half hour to set up and break down that I dreamed of when I was thinking of sailing but fun nonetheless.
Attachments
Ahhh. The intrepid “ Hunter bump”. Also known as the macgregor bump”
To get those last few inches when pulling the boat onto the trailer…..when you are all tucked in after a day of sailing and are about to leave the launch for the drive home… you need to get up to about 5 mph and then slam the breaks. The boat will slide up into the bow chock. Then get out and snug up your straps . I find that spraying the trailer bunk carpet with Teflon lube at the start of the season helps.
Listen to Dave. However, I'd suggest you look at the backing that attaches the bow eye, between the inside nuts and hull. You may have to remove the decorative panel at the very front of the v berth to access the space behind it. On my 23, there were only a pair of moderate sized washers backing the nuts on the U bolt shaped eye. I added some steel strapping. I think others have used solid pipe, if the eye's threads are long enough. That is not to say you should try to drag the boat using the winch and that eye, but if you use it to moor, or even considering it has to help support the boat on the trailer, I think simple washers are too small.
@isaksp00
I sent this fellow a private message with no response as I know the boat well. It’s his loss. I spent the day traveling to look at a trailer ideal to transport a 28.5 Hunter for another poster
If @Tb0n3 attempts to winch the boat out by the strap hooked to the bow eye, the likelihood of the bow eye could be ripped off. Fixed a few H23 bows. It can be beefed up as you suggested to help prevent that. There is a lot more but arthritis in my hands do hurt
I sent this fellow a private message with no response as I know the boat well. It’s his loss. I spent the day traveling to look at a trailer ideal to transport a 28.5 Hunter for another poster
If @Tb0n3 attempts to winch the boat out by the strap hooked to the bow eye, the likelihood of the bow eye could be ripped off. Fixed a few H23 bows. It can be beefed up as you suggested to help prevent that. There is a lot more but arthritis in my hands do hurt
I got a good look at the eye backing. Looks like factory glassing around a pipe and a threaded U bolt going through. At least it's beefier than I thought.
The original backing plate for the bow eye was a block of wood but later a flat ss steel rectangular plate. l use to add an elongated pipe for repairs and/or for a mooring ball. I use to advise other dealers of that.
Please advise if your trailer is a KWS of Kens welding trailer. I replaced those cheap bearings and racers and added buddy bearing grease fittings. The original fenders use to fall off due to lack of support.
Look at the motor mount and see if it flexes. If so, you may need to add a larger backing plate inside the rear transom. For those who do not know, this is a reverse transom angled backwards to the cockpit. Please advise @Tb0n3
Please advise if your trailer is a KWS of Kens welding trailer. I replaced those cheap bearings and racers and added buddy bearing grease fittings. The original fenders use to fall off due to lack of support.
Look at the motor mount and see if it flexes. If so, you may need to add a larger backing plate inside the rear transom. For those who do not know, this is a reverse transom angled backwards to the cockpit. Please advise @Tb0n3