Ideal routing of jib sheet
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
- Start date
I’d route it inside the lifelines, straight from the block to the clew. It might rub on the lifeline a bit on deeper reaches, but the sheet will be under much less tension then than on a beat. If it really doesn’t work well on deeper wind angles you could have it from block to clew going upwind, and use a separate reaching sheet for deeper angles, but I don’t think that’ll be needed much.
Yes, that doesn't work, its wrong, sheet it inside lifelines and problem is solved.
Easy fix.
Easy fix.
Rare in a discussion about sailing a consensus is emerging.
Route inside the life lines, not through them.
Route inside the life lines, not through them.
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This comes from this sbo thread by weekendrken:
1992 Catalina 30
Also: www.catalina30.com
***********************************************************
Almost all Catalina masthead rigged boats with only inboard tracks get the jib sheets routed inboard. Has been this way since the C22 and C30s started production in the early 1970s.
You should have a manual for your boat, you've been here long enough to be able to access one.
Good luck have fun rebedding your stanchion bases.
Subscribe at the web forum:
Catalina30 groups.io Group
*All things Catalina 30 and 309! Sponsored by the International Catalina 30 Assn IC30A. FAQs, Q&A, comments, and experiences especially fixes and modifications invited. Share with over 2200 other owners. Website catalina30.com* *Please join the International Catalina 30 Association.
or by sending an email to:
Catalina30+subscribe@groups.io
This comes from this sbo thread by weekendrken:
1992 Catalina 30
Also: www.catalina30.com
***********************************************************
Almost all Catalina masthead rigged boats with only inboard tracks get the jib sheets routed inboard. Has been this way since the C22 and C30s started production in the early 1970s.
You should have a manual for your boat, you've been here long enough to be able to access one.
Good luck have fun rebedding your stanchion bases.
Your Catalina has inboard shrouds which facilitate tighter sheeting angles.
Pull your fenders on deck when sailing.
Don't hang fenders from lifelines, see it making your slack lifeline jump up and down. It's taking a load then releasing, using the stanchion as a lever. Tie fenders to the base of stanchions so they aren't stressing them wrong way over and over 24/7.
Pull your fenders on deck when sailing.
Don't hang fenders from lifelines, see it making your slack lifeline jump up and down. It's taking a load then releasing, using the stanchion as a lever. Tie fenders to the base of stanchions so they aren't stressing them wrong way over and over 24/7.
If wider sheeting angles are desired for reaching, either a whisker pole/reaching pole, or a second sheeting point, near the toe rail (outside the lifelines). Yes, both add complication, but depending on the boat and course, can really help.
But as the group suggests, the sheet shown in post #1 is routed incorrectly and should be inside the lifelines.
In this case, the genoa must be rolled up a little to use the inside track, so as to clear the cap shrouds. For reaching, about 2' more sail unwinds and the sheet moves outboard, significantly increasing power. This also avoids pressure on the lifeline.
But as the group suggests, the sheet shown in post #1 is routed incorrectly and should be inside the lifelines.
In this case, the genoa must be rolled up a little to use the inside track, so as to clear the cap shrouds. For reaching, about 2' more sail unwinds and the sheet moves outboard, significantly increasing power. This also avoids pressure on the lifeline.
In other words, up and over the life lines?
I have one. It has more details on MKII's than MKIII's. Rather inacurrate and missing info IMO. The stanchion in the video has been rebedded and reinforced with a G10 backing plate
Yes, that was a very lazy sailing day. Wind gusts to maybe 10kts with the autopilot doing all the work. These stanchions are definitely stronger than the ones on my last boat. I destroyed one with a fender. I'm aware of the risks
Yes. See the photos Dave and ThinWater posted.
Are you having trouble with the Genoa car maintaining its position? I ask because you have the hardware for a towable Genoa car, but it is not rigged. Towable cars make it very easy to adjust the position of the sheet lead while its under load and it does not require leaving the cockpit.
The previous owner attempted to get the towing function working but he said it wasn't working as expected. I ended up using the shock cord he had attached for another purpose. Sail trim and rig tuning has been low priority due to lack of time. Is the fairlead/cam cleat car for towing?
Yes. The towable cars that just slide on the track work but not as efficiently as Harken's ball bearing cars. Shock cord works on the Harken cars, not as well on the sliders. But that doesn't really matter in practice. When the jib is trimmed going up wind the jib sheet will naturally push the car aft. The tow line works best when going from upwind to off the wind when the car needs to come forward.
The tow line will start at the forward end of the car go up to the forward turning block and then back to the car and forward again, then back to the cam cleat. The track needs to be kept clean for the cars to slide. IIRC there is a plastic piece inside the slider that should make it easier to slide.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 24,833
You look to be flying a standard jib. I would run the sheet inside the shroud and inside the lifelines. It looks like the jib is a 100%so that it fits in the “J” measurement (in front of the mast.). You will be able to sheet it in more cleanly (a fair lead). If you change the foresail cars to be adjustable (like an adjustable traveler) you will be able to make trim adjustments on the fly. 
I believe it's a 150. It goes past the mast pretty far. Wouldn't inside the shroud lead to a short sheet life due to constant rubbing?You look to be flying a standard jib. I would run the sheet inside the shroud and inside the lifelines. It looks like the jib is a 100%so that it fits in the “J” measurement (in front of the mast.). You will be able to sheet it in more cleanly (a fair lead). If you change the foresail cars to be adjustable (like an adjustable traveler) you will be able to make trim adjustments on the fly.
I love forums, but I think in some ways the internet is ruining how we learn.
All of the OP's questions would have been answered by reading a few books on sailing. The routing. The towable car (the hardware is there, it just needs a line) and how it is used. Books give more complete answers. Yes, you have to take the time to read them, but you get the full story, not sound bites.
All of the OP's questions would have been answered by reading a few books on sailing. The routing. The towable car (the hardware is there, it just needs a line) and how it is used. Books give more complete answers. Yes, you have to take the time to read them, but you get the full story, not sound bites.
Among other things, like beating up the Genoa, over trimming when going to weather, and poor off wind sail trim.
From the photos, it appears the shrouds are inboard, on a boat with outboard shrouds, meaning attached to the hull outboard of the lifelines, and with a small jib routing the sheet between the shrouds and the mast may be appropriate.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 24,833
If it is a 150 or a 135 it will need to be routed outside the shrouds. When sailing up wind you will need to trim the sail in, just off the spreaders. The original boats sail plan did not consider the add on of life lines nor stanchions. To minimize chafe on the sheets you’ll need to identify where is occurs and adapt the hardware for various points of sail. This can include replacing the sheets as they age or develop chafe spots. Certainly movement of the jib cars a possible to help trim.