I have to fix a leaking fixed port
- Thread starter jk kudera
- Start date
These threads might help. The first one is on a 1984 Hunter 34.
84 Hunter 34 Window/Port/Hatch Rebed .. Advise?
Hi All. I have a 1984 Hunter 34 that is being completely refit. In the process a few leaks have been found that need dealt with prior to finishing the refit. SO... I have 14 windows & ports, 4 hatches and the 72 screws in the tracks that need removed and rebed. I realize that some are probably...
forums.sailboatowners.com
Boat Windows - How to Repair Window Leaks : Boats and Yachts Maintenance, Repairs and Troubleshooting
There are few problems that can cause more damage and detract from the value of your boat than window, porthole and hatch leaks.
www.yachtsurvey.com
One needs to think about the product (butyl) and how it is used (needs to be a caulk between two mechanically attached fittings).
While the butyl sold by MaineSail is excellent as a caulk that adheres to both sides of fittings, it is not an ‘adhesive’ with the strength to bond the two sides together.Thus you need to attached the parts using a mechanical method (i.e. through bolting.)
I attached my forward hatch to the deck with through bolts and nuts. I used butyl between the deck and the hatch flange to stop water from entering the boat by seeping under the flange.
While the butyl sold by MaineSail is excellent as a caulk that adheres to both sides of fittings, it is not an ‘adhesive’ with the strength to bond the two sides together.Thus you need to attached the parts using a mechanical method (i.e. through bolting.)
I attached my forward hatch to the deck with through bolts and nuts. I used butyl between the deck and the hatch flange to stop water from entering the boat by seeping under the flange.
IF your 34 has the aluminum port frames, a butyl/795 fix as Rich Breyer posted is what ya need.. If your 34 has the crappy, brittle, undersized plastic frames (like mine has) then a fix like Allan Hadad suggests is a fine one.. You can do the ports separately, as original, or together as Allan did..
3M makes a double sided tape for this purpose. The tape is about 1/2" wide and 3/32 thick (approx). I saw on line how to do this. The tape is unforgiving once placed. So the rough steps are to remove all old sealing material on the fibergalss and frame. Place the tape on the frame- check the fit before removing the inner release paper. remove the release paper and stick the frame to the boat. Then tape as needed and caulk.
The thickness of the tape controls the thickness of the caulk (795 is, IMO, the correct choice) If the caulk is 3/32 thick and has an elongation of several hundred % then the frame can move a great deal without breaking the caulk joint. If the caulk joint is only .010" (no tape and frame pressed tight to the fibergalss) thick then the allowable movement is very small. Plan to tape the fibergalss and the frame exterior. Apply the 795 caulk forcing it into the joint up to the tape and onto the fibergalss. I was able to drag a razor blade across the tapes to "tool" the joint. Waited 1-2 hours and removed the tape. If the caulk is not zero thickness at the tape edge you may experience some issues removing the tape.
The thickness of the tape controls the thickness of the caulk (795 is, IMO, the correct choice) If the caulk is 3/32 thick and has an elongation of several hundred % then the frame can move a great deal without breaking the caulk joint. If the caulk joint is only .010" (no tape and frame pressed tight to the fibergalss) thick then the allowable movement is very small. Plan to tape the fibergalss and the frame exterior. Apply the 795 caulk forcing it into the joint up to the tape and onto the fibergalss. I was able to drag a razor blade across the tapes to "tool" the joint. Waited 1-2 hours and removed the tape. If the caulk is not zero thickness at the tape edge you may experience some issues removing the tape.
I have an 84 H34 and have replaced all the ports including the large ones, which I did years ago and don't really remember. However, on a recent replacement of a leaky port in the head, I used the standard 3M adhesive sealant. I just bought some butyl tape to try out. I think each has its advantages. However, when you look at the opening ports, there is a hole cut in the deck and the port is pushed in and screwed. This leaves about a 1/8-1/4 inch around the port. I used 3M adhesive pushed into that opening to ensure a good seal. I'm not sure I would be able to push the butyl tape into the same opening. The 3M seams to me to be a better seal when you are not attaching to flat pieces which would squeeze the butyl tape and surround that screws. Its the "nooks and crannies" that worry me. You might squeeze in some 3M into the gaps and then use the butyl tape also. Over sealing the H34 is never a bad idea.