84 Hunter 34 Window/Port/Hatch Rebed .. Advise?

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Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Hi All. I have a 1984 Hunter 34 that is being completely refit. In the process a few leaks have been found that need dealt with prior to finishing the refit. SO... I have 14 windows & ports, 4 hatches and the 72 screws in the tracks that need removed and rebed. I realize that some are probably not leaking, but might as well deal with it right. I know it is going to be a pain in the @$%. Can anyone that has an older Hunter and has done this offer up a bit of advise. I know some will say to replace the windows, but with the refit, it is something that may have to wait till next season to save up for.

Also, MAINESAIL, I am "Guessing"...Silicone on the plastic ports and Butyl on the metal windows? If so, will order....

As for hatches, the lexan will probably need removed and rebed... suggestions on materials here would be helpful..

Thank you in advance to all who reply.....

Brian
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,884
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Brian, I had to re-bed the fixed ports on the cabin sides but I have the plastic framed ones and used silicone to do that.Used silicone when I replaced one of the Grey ports a couple of years ago. . I have had no leaks in hatches or toe rails since I've had the boat in 1991. I think I will pull the sea hood soon to replace the companionway slider. It will be re-bedded with butyl.
 
Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Yeah, I want to do the whole thing...the fixed metal windows and the plastic opening portlights. I dont think I mean the toe rail, and the actual name escapes me at the moment, but those tracks embedded in the deck on the sides of the cabin, mast cables attach, and it is an adjustable thing that slides fore and aft... screws on top, nuts inside salon. ( I know there are guys cracking up right now at my inability to remember the name of that...Forgive... I am a newbie) .... I am doing the seahood too... my hatch leaks as well....
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
You will want Dow795 for the opening ports (and fixed ones too). It comes in different colors so order white (approx $8/tube).
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,884
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Ahh Brian, gotcha.. Genoa Car Tracks.. Yes those should be done with butyl.. I think mine are about ready to get done.. Have to pick a couple of nice days .. it definitely is a two person job.
EDIT: the holes need to be chamfered as in MaineSail's pictures to get the best seal.
 
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Jun 3, 2004
890
Hunter 34 Toronto, Ontario Canada
Take a look in the "modifications" section- I refurbed my fixed ports a couple of years ago. All the instructions are there, Have had absolutely no leakage problems with the job. Have not done anything with the opening ports yet, still on the list.
 

Squidd

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Sep 26, 2011
890
AMF Alcort Paceship PY26 Washburn Wi. Apostle Islands
I don't have a Hunter, but now I'm getting confused on different bedding for different windows...?

I have plastic non opening windows that leak, should I use butyl or silicone or some other sealant on these...??

I plan on pulling the interior screws, splitting the window, sealing on outside (butyl?) and squeezing them back....Am I on the right track?
 

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Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Thank you everyone for the input. Richard, your tutorial with pics is very helpful...thank you again... This will be something I tackle very soon.....
 
Apr 14, 2010
248
Hunter 34 Slidell, La.
Just curious to know when we are going to see some pictures of before and after shots. I am starting a interior redo and was just wondering how yours looks so far. This Sunday I pull the boat out for a bottom job and repairs, all new thru-hulls and ball valves are being installed. Looking for pictures soon.

Thanks, Bub
 
Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Hi Bub, the photos will be coming soon. I have photos all the way down to the liner, with the glass cut out, then the repaired glass. Also photos of sole sanded, which turned out great. Rebuilt 3 new settee's, refit the galley this weekend... basically I switched the position of the silverware drawers and the stove. I was then able to make an actually cabinet out of the silverware drawers. In doing this, I was able to move the stove back by 2 inches. Then the sink side I was able to narrow up by about 3 inches. It sounds small, but when you can reallocate space, or use it better than it was..it makes a huge difference in space. Am in the process of building the cabinet that sits behind the stove ( See the new Hunter 33) thats what I am building there. As for the cut-outs in the back of the galley, rebuilding them so they accommodate doors like the cabinet behind the sink. All of the black plexiglass cabinets in the salon are gone. The walls in that area were covered with 1/4 inch luan and sealed in laquer on the back side and oiled cherry laminate was applied. Makes the boat ALLOT wider. Nav table ripped out and rebuilt a bit smaller. Wall between nav station and aft cabin has been cut back 6 inches in order to make a bigger opening. Walls in the Vberth are the same as the salon, sealed luan with laminate. Then, everything else will get covered in the oiled cherry laminate. I have not started the laminating yet. I promise pics soon....
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,884
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Looking forward to seeing the pictures, Brian.. MAN it sounds like yall have done a lot of re-fitting..
 
Jan 22, 2008
1,654
Hunter 34 Alameda CA
Brian,

The work you have done sounds great. I am looking forward to seeing pictures as well. Your original post here prompted me to write my article describing the fixed window replacement my wife and I did last year. It is currently waiting approval in the Hunter Owner's Modifications section. When that comes through, I will post the link here.

Allan
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Brian...

I have yet to tackle the fixed ports, but have replaced one and rebedded three of the cabin side opening ports. They are a PITA to get out! Who ever thought of using ports that are installed from the inside ought to be keel hauled.

You'll need to take the plastic trim rings on the outside off using a putty knife to get under an edge and begin GENTLY prying around their perimeter until they become free. On my boat some previous owner sunk flat top screws into the plywood core from the outside to draw it up tight so you could encounter something like that too.

After the trim rings are off, you begin wedging in some sort of sharp tool like a narrow putty knife in around the barrel of the opening port from the outside to break loose the caulking. Once you've got that done it becomes like pulling a tooth--you keep wiggling and pulling (from the inside) on the barrel until it begins to come free and slowly peel off the caulk. Pushing it inward from the outside will only work if you have someone inside to catch the thing when it breaks loose.

Once the opening port is out, you will probably need to deal with the deterioration of the plywood core before you can reinstall the old or a new port. Thickened resin or some other filler compound will be needed if you have to clean out any rotted/soggy plywood.

When I reinstalled the opening ports, I screwed them back in place, then caulked around the barrel perimeter on the outside with 4200 in a caulk gun to fill the gap between the port barrel and the cabin's outside skin. Once that's done, fillet the outside joint and apply the trim rings with just a dab of caulk at a couple of spots to hold them back in place.
 
Oct 1, 2011
188
Hunter 42 Passage Huron, OH
Dan, you are the man... That's exactly what I wanted to hear... straight forward, simple, PITA instructions. I knew it was going to be tricky. Also, I was actually under the impression there were screws under the exterior trim ring, so now I know, just caulk. Yes, I think I do feel a little rot just forward of the Galley opening port and just forward of the opening port above the nav station. All of the other areas feel pretty stable. Sounds like I am going to need about 12 cases of 4200 for this job. If you were to guess, how long did it take (Average) to remove one port? Thank you to all, you guys are great.....
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Brian...

Port removal time varied by the intensity with which the old caulking refused to give up its grip--that's the main PITA part! Minimum was a half hour on the easiest one to almost two hours for the most agrevating one.

The main obstacle is how much if any caulk was applied to the inside flange of the port. Getting that separated without gouging the interior surface was the tricky part.

Yes, you will use the better part of a tube of caulk for each port done. Be sure you get as much as you can into the seam between the port barrel and the outside cabin skin so that you get a full seal. Watch for voids to form and get them filled ASAP.
 
Nov 6, 2006
9,884
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
I had to replace the port over the galley. slow process, as Dan says.. I used plastic levers like these to keep from scratching the inside liner. http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...-piece-nylon-pry-bar-installer-kit-95214.html
Removed the lens of the new one for installation and reached thru the opening with clamps to squeeze the outer ring onto the cabin outside until the sealant cured.. Ya might want to consider not using 4200 since the Gray people say to only use silicone sealants.
 
Oct 14, 2005
2,191
1983 Hunter H34 North East, MD
Kloudie...

I saw the silicone use comment in the specs that came with the new window (PO bought it but never installed it).

Don't like the way silicone deteriorates over time when exposed to the outside element as it would be in filling the port barrel surrounding void. The 4200 may etch the plastic's surface, but feel that the adhesive power will be better than silicone.
 
Jun 9, 2010
32
Hunter 34 Cedar Island
Hi Brian
I am just across the lake with the same year boat so the conditions as similar. I did my windows last year and concur with Dan except I cut the sealant with a fine razor blade after taking off the trim . I have the plastic trim so I had to be VERY careful not to crack it. I mainly pushed gently from inside.
My lexan was fogged so I used 4000 grit sand paper I got from an auto body shop and Brasso and it turned out beautifully. It is easier to do this while it is out and saved me quite a few bucks than replacing the plastic.
Before re-installing the windows I also sealed the plywood with a coat of sealant, let it set then put in the window.
I had a leak in the large hatch in the salon which I could not stop. I finally noticed the plastic had separated from the frame and wasn't noticeable until you stepped on it. that I sealed with 3M 5300 ( the brasso trick worked on that too)

Hope to see you on the lake
Pete
 
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