Hunter 260 - Big Problems - Water Ballast?
- Thread starter Tyler Rippel
- Start date
I used a piece of red rubber on the wingnut put a small hole through it so it was very tight around threads it’s been three years it was hard to seal this year so going to replace
Wow. For a noob like me it's pretty cool this forum has guys like Dave to help people out. That said, I'm very interested in buying a 260 next season and I've been chugging through these forums looking for known issues. Am I just looking too closely, or does the 260 seem to have more issues than other Hunters?
In response to removing the plug completely, this can be done on the trailer. The center running board on the trailer (under the centerboard) should not be supporting any significant weight. If it is, you can run a ratchet strap around the entire boat to pull the board up off the trailer running board. You can then just move the running board and move it out the way to one side. I did this by hand very easily. There are 3-4 nuts holding this to the trailer that you must take out. (good time to replace the carpet on the trailer running board).
If you are working alone, It's important to remove the plug completely and let it drop down to the running board before you move the board to one side. Otherwise, you can have someone in the cabin removing the nut while someone below holds the plug as it lowers. After replacing the gasket which was just rubber gasket material I purchased at the hardware store It was not easy to put back in, took maybe 3-4 minutes to find the hole inside the cabin, definitely a "suck it and see" type of deal. I added some anti seize to the threads to allow for smooth tightening prior to inserting the threaded bar. I could not imagine attempting to do this in the water, even with scuba gear it would be extremely difficult.
If you are working alone, It's important to remove the plug completely and let it drop down to the running board before you move the board to one side. Otherwise, you can have someone in the cabin removing the nut while someone below holds the plug as it lowers. After replacing the gasket which was just rubber gasket material I purchased at the hardware store It was not easy to put back in, took maybe 3-4 minutes to find the hole inside the cabin, definitely a "suck it and see" type of deal. I added some anti seize to the threads to allow for smooth tightening prior to inserting the threaded bar. I could not imagine attempting to do this in the water, even with scuba gear it would be extremely difficult.
Just purchased the H23.5 1993 . My valve gasket is totally missing . Like to take it completely out and clean the sealing surface and replace gasket ? Is possible to drop the valve on the trailer keel bunks ?Many suggested replacement options. What’s the real solution, what type of gasket ? Thickness of gasket ?Adhesive (5200) ? Isn’t the stern deck to hull joint fused together on the 23.5 ? My mast foot plate to mast is loose , rerevet ?? Are they special revets ? This the heaviest tiller, rudder assembly I’ve ever come across before , is it possibly water logged???
Good questions. Probably needs its own thread. But since you asked:
-My valve gasket is totally missing . Like to take it completely out and clean the sealing surface and replace gasket ? Is possible to drop the valve on the trailer keel bunks ?Many suggested replacement options. What’s the real solution, what type of gasket ? Thickness of gasket ?Adhesive (5200) ?
First, bookmark this page: Hunter Parts Store H23.5 thats the parts store for your boat. They provide excellent service. They also have the gasket and adhesive for less than $13. You should be able to replace that while the boat is on the trailer.
-My mast foot plate to mast is loose , rerevet ?? Are they special revets ?
Yes, re-rivet the foot. I did this a few years ago to my 23.5. Drill out the old ones. You may need to "dress" the base of the mast. By that I mean check the aluminum base and make sure it is very flat. Use a good straight edge held up to the base in various positions. When the rivets are loose, the mast can rock a little back and forth. Over time, this can cause the base of the mast to get a curved base. Take your time and use a file to bring it back to a flat shape. Its very soft metal, and will file down quickly.
If the rivet holes are rounded out, you will need to drill them out and go up a size. They are simple "pop" rivets, and you can get a useable pop rivet tool at Harbor Freight for cheap. I cant remember if I used stainless steel or aluminum rivets. I personally don't think it matters. There is not a lot of force acting on those rivets in normal conditions.
-This the heaviest tiller, rudder assembly I’ve ever come across before , is it possibly water logged???
Not water logged. Or, at least that is not what is causing the heaviness. The normal feel of the tiller is very light. All else being correct, if the rudder is not completely down you will experience a heavy rudder feel. The leading edge of the rudder should be in line with the rudder hinge. If its trailing back at you will have a heavy feel.
EDIT: I assumed you meant "heavy" control feel. Maybe you meant actual weight. It is pretty heavy. But its got a stout metal tube inside and built up glass. If the tip is worn off, you may be a bit water logged. Id dry it out and make sure its sealed back up.
Have fun. H23.5 are great little boats.
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